Hardware 2 Broken 3DSes, need help

MikeyLORR

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Hi everyone, I was at a 3DS event in the city yesterday, I volunteered to take any broken DSes and fix them. I have 2 that I'm having trouble with, they both won't turn on. The first one is a New 2DS XL. The owner said it was working fine until one day the battery ran out, and after they fully charged it, it wouldn't turn on. It doesn't "pop" and the screens don't flash, the blue light just comes on for a second then turns off (video attached). I tried taking the motherboard out and putting everything back in, I also tried replacing the battery, but no luck. I'm not sure exactly what to look for at this point but it's so weird that it just stopped working like that and I really want to fix it.

The second one is a New 3DS XL, when you press the power button on this one, the blue light comes on and stays on, but nothing else turns on. Again I tried taking the entire board out, but the same thing happens. One thing I noticed is that a couple of the ribbon cables look off, pictures attached. Not sure if they're supposed to look like this or not. If not then let me know if they should be replaced. I may make more posts if I need more help, since I have a few other DSes but I'm waiting for parts and I think I got it. Thank you everyone <3
 

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Hi everyone, I was at a 3DS event in the city yesterday, I volunteered to take any broken DSes and fix them. I have 2 that I'm having trouble with, they both won't turn on. The first one is a New 2DS XL. The owner said it was working fine until one day the battery ran out, and after they fully charged it, it wouldn't turn on. It doesn't "pop" and the screens don't flash, the blue light just comes on for a second then turns off (video attached). I tried taking the motherboard out and putting everything back in, I also tried replacing the battery, but no luck. I'm not sure exactly what to look for at this point but it's so weird that it just stopped working like that and I really want to fix it.

The second one is a New 3DS XL, when you press the power button on this one, the blue light comes on and stays on, but nothing else turns on. Again I tried taking the entire board out, but the same thing happens. One thing I noticed is that a couple of the ribbon cables look off, pictures attached. Not sure if they're supposed to look like this or not. If not then let me know if they should be replaced. I may make more posts if I need more help, since I have a few other DSes but I'm waiting for parts and I think I got it. Thank you everyone <3
The blue light turning off could be a sign of a B9S modded console missing a payload or not seeing the SD, you can try putting the latest Luma3DS on there and trying with a different SD as well.
 
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The blue light turning off could be a sign of a B9S modded console missing a payload or not seeing the SD, you can try putting the latest Luma3DS on there and trying with a different SD as well.
That's what I also thought at first, but if I remember correctly, B9S shutting off always does so with the blue power light fading out smoothly, rather than abruptly turning off, which might suggest that it is in fact a hardware-fault related shut-off.

@MikeyLORR, I'm going to assume that the behaviour is exactly the same when you press the power button with the lid open, right? It is normal for new2DS/new3DS to only glow the blue light for a moment and immediately turn off, when you try pressing the power button with the lid closed. At least on my systems with boot9strap installed, it is the normal behaviour. I'm not sure how it was on unmodded systems.
 
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The blue light turning off could be a sign of a B9S modded console missing a payload or not seeing the SD, you can try putting the latest Luma3DS on there and trying with a different SD as well.
I'm gonna ask if their DS is modded, I'm pretty sure it is, and I'll try this (probably tomorrow or later in the week)
That's what I also thought at first, but if I remember correctly, B9S shutting off always does so with the blue power light fading out smoothly, rather than abruptly turning off, which might suggest that it is in fact a hardware-fault related shut-off.

@MikeyLORR, I'm going to assume that the behaviour is exactly the same when you press the power button with the lid open, right? It is normal for new2DS/new3DS to only glow the blue light for a moment and immediately turn off, when you try pressing the power button with the lid closed. At least on my systems with boot9strap installed, it is the normal behaviour. I'm not sure how it was on unmodded systems.
Yes, same thing when it's open. And again I'm pretty sure it's modded but I will confirm. If it is a hardware issue, do you have any ideas what it could be or how I can test it? Again I tried taking the whole motherboard out and putting it back in, but no luck.
Side question, tell me more about this 3DS event. How did you find it?
It was in New York City, it's called Mii N Greet. It was a big Streetpass event with some tournaments and other fun stuff, there were WAY more people than I thought there would be. Their Instagram is @3dyasss
 
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Yes, same thing when it's open. And again I'm pretty sure it's modded but I will confirm. If it is a hardware issue, do you have any ideas what it could be or how I can test it? Again I tried taking the whole motherboard out and putting it back in, but no luck.
It's hard for me to say, in this case. Indeed, normally when there's a hardware fault with one of the non-motherboard components, you would expect a pop from the speakers and/or a quick white flash from one of the displays (or even both of them). But if the motherboard is failing to connect with both of the displays and also the speakers, it of course wouldn't be able to do any of those things.
It could some kind of short circuit or integrated-circuit fault, either on the motherboard itself, or on a ribbon cable connection with the display or another component. There might be something that's causing the motherboard to shut off, before it even gets to the stage of attempting to initialize the displays and other critical system components.

I'd say that you could try connecting the motherboard to only one component at a time, and see if you can get a screen flash or speaker pop that way, with for example only the bottom screen and nothing else connected. I would also suggest that you check all of the microfuses on the motherboard, just in case.

If you have another 2DS XL, you can try swapping the two motherboards between the units. See if the motherboard from the faulty system will power on when connected to the components of a known-good system. Likewise, see if the motherboard from the known-good system will power on in any way with the components of the known-bad system. However! In this case, since it's very much an unknown case, if there is in fact some short circuit like I mentioned, there is a very small possibility that a faulty component could blow a microfuse or cause other damage to a known good motherboard. This is pretty unlikely, but you have been warned.

============

Regarding the new3DS XL, I don't have much ideas aside from also attempting to swap motherboards with a known-good unit of the same model.
When a 3DS powers on with the blue light, but then doesn't power off, doesn't flash any other lights, and doesn't do anything at all - this usually suggested a fault with the motherboard itself, if I remember correctly. It might also be a hardbrick? If you have an ntrboot supported flashcard, it's always worth trying.

Good luck, and please be careful (particularly with the ribbon cables).
 
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Regarding the new3DS XL, I don't have much ideas aside from also attempting to swap motherboards with a known-good unit of the same model.
When a 3DS powers on with the blue light, but then doesn't power off, doesn't flash any other lights, and doesn't do anything at all - this usually suggested a fault with the motherboard itself, if I remember correctly. It might also be a hardbrick? If you have an ntrboot supported flashcard, it's always worth trying.

Good luck, and please be careful (particularly with the ribbon cables).
Good news, I swapped the board into my N3DSXL and it worked! So I know the board is fine, it could be any component that could be causing the problem. I don't think I have the time or patience to replace each part one at a time to see what's causing the issue. Do you have any advice? The owner told me to was exposed to a lot of sunlight before it stopped working, if that helps at all. Right now we know the motherboard, SD card reader, circle pad, and battery work.
 
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Good news, I swapped the board into my N3DSXL and it worked! So I know the board is fine, it could be any component that could be causing the problem. I don't think I have the time or patience to replace each part one at a time to see what's causing the issue. Do you have any advice? The owner told me to was exposed to a lot of sunlight before it stopped working, if that helps at all. Right now we know the motherboard, SD card reader, circle pad, and battery work.
Hmm... Hard to say. Nice that the motherboard is alive, though!
It's unlikely that it's one of the displays, since then, you'd expect a shut-off with speakers popping and possibly a white screen flash. But the possibility that one of the displays has failed in a way that causes the system to freeze on the blue light also cannot be excluded.

It might be one of the other components of the top lid, such as the cameras, super-stable 3D sensor, volume / 3D depth sliders, speakers. I'm not sure what the exact arrangement of those is on new3DS systems, but it could be one of the ribbon cables that you mentioned were looking slightly off. If one of those components is being faulty, it could be that the 3DS OS is locking up and unable to finish booting, instead of the system shutting off at an earlier self-test stage. I'm not too sure about the specifics of new3DS systems, compared to old3DS.

I'll ask: do you know if this 3DS is modded? If you're not sure, you can find out while the motherboard is working in your 3DS unit. Try pressing L+DPad Down+SELECT in the OS to bring up the Luma3DS menu, and/or try holding START or SELECT while turning on the system (pressing the power button), to bring up either the Luma3DS configuration menu or the Luma3DS chainloader.
If you're now sure that the 3DS is modded, you can try, with the motherboard back in its faulty unit again, holding down START or SELECT while turning the system on. If the 3DS OS is locking up and unable to finish initializing because of one of the components, the Luma3DS pre-boot menus and utilities such as GodMode9 might still be able to initialize and display their menus, since they're much simpler and have no need to initialize all of those components.

On the new3DS XL, you also have a daughterboard, and the Game Card slot is also an external part. On old3DS, those parts were integrated directly onto the motherboard. They might also be critical system components - the ribbon cable connecting to the daughterboard is quite wide, and if I remember correctly, the daughterboard also had some integrated circuits of its own.
It's probably a good idea to try swapping those parts.

You should be able to speed up your testing by not completely replacing those components for every test, but just connecting known good parts loosely, while the existing parts are still mounted to the shell. However, you must be very careful when doing this. Don't test things this way for a prolonged period of time. If you're going to place a circuit board on top of the existing one, you have to protect from short-circuiting them. Insert a small piece of cardboard or something in between for isolation. And you'll probably have to keep holding it all down while trying to power the system on, to prevent it from falling apart. Having to hold the battery down to the battery contacts/terminals by hand also doesn't make it easier. You're doing it at your own risk and you have been warned.
If one of these quick component-swapping tests reveals that the system now powers on, don't bother testing it further when you're probably already using both of your hands just to keep it all together. Remove the battery, and proceed with the full replacement procedure for that component.
If you prefer to stay safe, you'll have to fully replace each component just for testing, which can take a lot more time. Of course, you can still save time by temporarily mounting a component like the daugherboard on only two screws, instead of all of them.

This method can be used for testing the top-lid components too, if you have spare parts (cameras, sliders) that are loose and not already mounted inside of a shell.
 
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