Hacking Hardware Removing the current limit on USB ports on Wii U

  • Thread starter Thread starter cutrus
  • Start date Start date
  • Views Views 4,802
  • Replies Replies 19
  • Likes Likes 18

cutrus

Member
Newcomer
Joined
Oct 13, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
26
Trophies
0
Age
36
XP
327
Country
Poland

My experiments with raising the current limit on USB ports on the Wii U.​

I wanted to share my experience with increasing the current limit on USB ports for the Wii U console. I’ve successfully done this a few times, though it does require some work. At the end, I’ll also describe an alternative method that bypasses the limiter but has its drawbacks.

Why?​

I had issues with the limited number of USB ports, and it annoyed me that my SSD drive required two ports just to work stably. The console’s original setup imposes a current limit of around 200 mA, likely for cost-saving reasons. When this limit is exceeded, the system cuts off power and then restores it.

For me, this caused several problems:
  • The game drive would crash, leading to infinite loading screens.
  • The console sometimes displayed errors as if the eMMC memory was damaged.
  • A new drive was recognized, but the Wii U couldn’t load any games from it and restarted instead.

How?​

Although I couldn’t determine the exact component responsible for the 200 mA limit, I found a solution through reverse engineering. Luckily, Nintendo designed many motherboards to support replacing the original component with a regulated one.

I used the AP2552W6-7 adjustable current limiter to replace the original part. The motherboards provide appropriate pads for this modification.

It is highly likely that you can use a similar component from another manufacturer, such as one from Texas Instruments. However, make sure to verify the pinout and ensure that the component is activated by a low state on the Enable pin.

Screenshot_2025-01-14_12-30-06.png


Replacement Instructions​

Here are the locations where the components need to be replaced, along with the resistor to be added:
  1. Rear USB ports
    • U23 and R683
    • U28 and R684
  2. Front USB ports
    • U26 and R685
    • U29 and R686
Note: Depending on the console revision, the U26 and U29 components may be located on either the top or bottom side of the motherboard.

Rear:
back sockets and resistors.jpg


Front:
front sockets and resistors.jpg


wup-01.jpeg

Current Limitation Table​


For example, to set a current limit of approximately 0.8 A, use a 30 kOhm resistor. However, I believe there’s no point in setting values higher than around 0.6 A per port.

Screenshot_2025-01-14_12-34-46.png


Gallery:​

1736866520929.png
after_mod.jpg
IMG_20250114_160558.jpg


I specifically chose a device that draws more than 0.5A to see if the system would reset. My mSATA SSD drive consumes a maximum of 0.35A under load.





Alternative Method​

If you’re looking for a simpler solution, you can bypass the original limiter by bridging pins 1 (Vin) and 6 (Vout) of the "J65401" component. I’ve tested this method and it works. However, I’m not sure how the console would handle a short circuit on one of the USB ports or if such an incident would be safe for the device.

alt1.jpg
 

Attachments

  • front resistors.jpg
    front resistors.jpg
    540.7 KB · Views: 75
  • front sockets.jpg
    front sockets.jpg
    457 KB · Views: 79
  • 1736856821910.png
    1736856821910.png
    3.1 MB · Views: 77
  • before_mod.jpg
    before_mod.jpg
    230.1 KB · Views: 68
Awesome mod! I'm just about to replicate this to get my SSD running smooth. Just one question though: There are two types of this power limiting IC, a latching off one and a current limiting one. Is there a specific reason you've picked the current limiting one? Especially as in your analysis it sounds like the originally mounted one is indeed latching off on overload. Might Nintendo have gone the safe route by choosing a latching one, avoiding brownouts on "out of spec" peripherials? Cause that's the only reason I could see why latching would be favored over current limiting 😅
 
I wanted to find something as close to the original chips as possible, and these were the only ones I found that matched the pinout. It’s probably also just as you said, I mean Nintendo likely wanted to avoid a voltage drop on the 5V line.
 
I've followed this and I'm very happy with the results, no more Y cables and no more random crashes; it's been months now and no issues whatsoever, with either Wii and Wii U games
I used 20k resistors to set it at ~1.1A per datasheet; I guessed and got 0603 ones but they turned out to be too big, so I resorted to scraping off a bit of the mask on the ground plane to make them fit, so it didn't end up looking very pretty, but it works nonetheless
 
Last edited by derivativeoflog7,
  • Like
Reactions: cutrus
I’m going to try this soon. Planning to mount an internal nvme ssd and this will allow me to only use one of the USB ports for it. I’ll report back once I’ve given it a go. How’s the machine holding up?
 
I’m going to try this soon. Planning to mount an internal nvme ssd and this will allow me to only use one of the USB ports for it. I’ll report back once I’ve given it a go. How’s the machine holding up?

Working fine ^^

thanks!!!
Post automatically merged:

another question! the resistor is 0402?
Yes
 
Working fine ^^


Yes
Awesome! I just did the rear ports on my Wii U. Opted for a 36kohm resistor. Went okay , but I knocked off this capacitor. Any idea what the value is?

Edit: looking at the pcb images and datasheet for the current limiting IC again and I think I found the answer:

A 0.01μF to 0.1μF X7R or X5R ceramic bypass capacitor between IN and GND, close to the device, is recommended. This limits the input voltage drop during line transients. Placing a high-value electrolytic capacitor on the input (10μF minimum -in our case 220uf) and output pin (120µF) is recommended when the output load is heavy.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0539.jpeg
    IMG_0539.jpeg
    230.9 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_0538.jpeg
    IMG_0538.jpeg
    701.7 KB · Views: 34
Last edited by Dire_bedlam,
Thank you so much for the guide

could you help me with the resistor I want the 20K, however, I am new to this
so could you provide link for recommended type, or send it in DM if it is not allowed to share links

Thank you
 
Thank you so much for the guide

could you help me with the resistor I want the 20K, however, I am new to this
so could you provide link for recommended type, or send it in DM if it is not allowed to share links

Thank you
look for 0402 SMD resistors
 
Last edited by derivativeoflog7,
I'm absolutely not an engineer, but I wouldn't recommend the simple solution without further testing - I still remember the time some poor woman got shocked to death by a knockoff Chinese USB cable overdrawing current and that current overwhelming her phone and escaping through the headphone jack. While you don't touch your Wii U most of the time and likely aren't the fastest way to earth, you might be using a GameCube controller at the time...
 
I'm absolutely not an engineer, but I wouldn't recommend the simple solution without further testing - I still remember the time some poor woman got shocked to death by a knockoff Chinese USB cable overdrawing current and that current overwhelming her phone and escaping through the headphone jack. While you don't touch your Wii U most of the time and likely aren't the fastest way to earth, you might be using a GameCube controller at the time...

Wut?
Thank you so much for the guide

could you help me with the resistor I want the 20K, however, I am new to this
so could you provide link for recommended type, or send it in DM if it is not allowed to share links

Thank you
As far as I remember, this was a 0402 resistor. The brand or parameters like tolerance don’t matter, only the size and resistance value are important, since these are just simple configuration resistors for the driver IC.
 
  • Like
Reactions: derivativeoflog7
I'm absolutely not an engineer, but I wouldn't recommend the simple solution without further testing - I still remember the time some poor woman got shocked to death by a knockoff Chinese USB cable overdrawing current and that current overwhelming her phone and escaping through the headphone jack. While you don't touch your Wii U most of the time and likely aren't the fastest way to earth, you might be using a GameCube controller at the time...
5V can't do that, USB cables also can't cause that. She was using a cheapo chinese charger that didn't have any separation between AC and DC and got directly shocked by 110/220V AC as metal parts of her phone became live at AC mains voltage. This is more common than you might think with cheap Chinese crap. It won't happen from simply removing/bypassing a current limit, it happens when the AC->DC conversion circuitry is not well designed (which is in the power brick and that does not need to and shouldn't be touched. Never mess with high voltage circuitry unless you know what you are doing)
 
  • Like
Reactions: derivativeoflog7
I'm absolutely not an engineer, but I wouldn't recommend the simple solution without further testing - I still remember the time some poor woman got shocked to death by a knockoff Chinese USB cable overdrawing current and that current overwhelming her phone and escaping through the headphone jack. While you don't touch your Wii U most of the time and likely aren't the fastest way to earth, you might be using a GameCube controller at the time...
This is absolutely safe. We're replacing a current limiter, not messing with the AC/DC conversion (which is outside the console anyway).
 
Power aside, does this make the transfer speed any faster, even slightly?
The ports will still be USB 2.0, so not really.
I guess it's possible for an HDD/SSD to have circuitry that detects low current and throttles speeds to save on power, but I've never heard of one, and since most stock Wii U owners would be using a Y cable or external power brick to have the drive not constantly drop offline I don't think there would be a difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DolphinPussy
The ports will still be USB 2.0, so not really.
I guess it's possible for an HDD/SSD to have circuitry that detects low current and throttles speeds to save on power
Throttling 26 megabytes a second even lower is crazy! I would love to see homebrew USB speed test apps for this exact situation.
This power mod paired with internal SSD NAND-AID, and the unlimit_mlc patch, would make for a very interesting Wii U "pro" lol.
Msata drives would get a new lease on life this way I think.
Anyways, I didn't know there Y splitters for SSD, I can see why this hardware mod had to be done.
 
Anyways, I didn't know there Y splitters for SSD, I can see why this hardware mod had to be done.
I'll tell you more - when I was using an HDD, somehow even a Y splitter with both ends connected to the console somehow wasn't enough. I had to put an extra power strip and a dedicated power brick to power the HDD. That's what ultimately lead me to do this mod.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: DolphinPussy
Just did another console, but this time I had proper 0402 resistors.
I know it's still not a very good job with all the scratching (just got new cleaning sponges and I definitely have to work on how I handle them with tweezers), but better than last time.
And damn are those small resistors annoying to work with...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20260410_172044.jpg
    IMG_20260410_172044.jpg
    484.9 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_20260410_172031.jpg
    IMG_20260410_172031.jpg
    314 KB · Views: 14

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum