Who has a 2nd switch?

[Disco Inferno]

I have 8 of them, and will probably get more, though most are Switch Lites. I work with kids, so I consider it a business expense, but I still enjoy collecting them. I also have enough pro controllers for a small classroom.

 

[sixxtylol]

I have a v2 Switch and a v1 that I recently purchased from eBay that I, of course, set CFW up on

 

[Psd99]

Gotcha prob best to avoid buying a faulty switch then

Im still hoping that an unpatched switch miraculously turns up on facebook lol
Be a lot cheaper than ebay

 

[Hayato213]

(provided that no one discovers a method like in the past 5 years)

Completely wrong, there are few methods RCM, Patched unit under 4.1.0 and Modchip unit, not that no one discovered a method in the past 5 years.

 

[binkinator]

Gotcha prob best to avoid buying a faulty switch then

Im still hoping that an unpatched switch miraculously turns up on facebook lol
Be a lot cheaper than ebay

Here’s another one for $10 more than the one with the broken reader. Says loud fan…that is totally fixable, provided nothing else is wrong:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304638230209

That said there are a bunch of V1 models on eBay w/o issues for <$200. Maybe grab one of the ones you can return if not happy?

 

[CompSciOrBust]

I have my first Erista which bricked due to a hardware issue, my Mariko which used to have a SX Core but I transferred that to an OLED. I let people borrow my Mariko now if friends want to try a game but don't own a Switch. I had an OLED for about 2 weeks but a mod chip installer bricked the CPU by soldering to the wrong pad, and I bought a new OLED to replace that which I now use. Imo the Mariko model with an original SX Core was best because it had both good boot times (unlike OLED) and good battery life (unlike Erista). Imo you should buy your kids a Switch Lite and keep the current console for yourself. I bought my sister a Lite and not being able to dock the console doesn't bother her. If your kids really want to dock the console I'd give them the current one and buy yourself a cheap Mariko with a (preferably non-cloned) SX Core.

Edit: Also I'm trying to get my hands on an SDEV or HDEV model for collectors purposes if anyone can hook me up.

 

[Ondrashek06]

Completely wrong, there are few methods RCM, Patched unit under 4.1.0 and Modchip unit, not that no one discovered a method in the past 5 years.

By "method" I mean "softmod for mariko switches".

 

[Hayato213]

By "method" I mean "softmod for mariko switches".

Not what it says in your original post, you just said methods not softmod, there probably will never be a softmod for v2 unit anytime soon, you know it so you should accept that there would be no softmod anytime soon.

 

[MasterJ360]

I have 3 although the 1st two are OG models so it was easy to get them back in 2018-2019
-1st Switch for SXOS
- 2nd Switch for Atmosphere
- 3rd OLED Switch for legitimacy play/on the go
Eh just tell your kids it broke and play your Switch in private lol

 

[hippy dave]

I have my first Erista which bricked due to a hardware issue, my Mariko which used to have a SX Core but I transferred that to an OLED. I let people borrow my Mariko now if friends want to try a game but don't own a Switch. I had an OLED for about 2 weeks but a mod chip installer bricked the CPU by soldering to the wrong pad, and I bought a new OLED to replace that which I now use. Imo the Mariko model with an original SX Core was best because it had both good boot times (unlike OLED) and good battery life (unlike Erista). Imo you should buy your kids a Switch Lite and keep the current console for yourself. I bought my sister a Lite and not being able to dock the console doesn't bother her. If your kids really want to dock the console I'd give them the current one and buy yourself a cheap Mariko with a (preferably non-cloned) SX Core.

Edit: Also I'm trying to get my hands on an SDEV or HDEV model for collectors purposes if anyone can hook me up.

Huh, OLED models really take that much longer to boot?

 

[CompSciOrBust]

Huh, OLED models really take that much longer to boot?

I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.

Edit: I've tried resetting the chip timings several times as well as updating to the latest chip firmware. It doesn't make a difference. If I had known in advance how much of a pain in the ass having an OLED would be (between the first installer lying about bricking it and my new console not booting correctly) I wouldn't have bothered upgrading.

 

[lolcatzuru]

i have 2! i have one of the real OG's and one of the extended battery models that came out a bit later, one i use for legit stuff one for... homebrew.

 

[Hayato213]

I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.

Edit: I've tried resetting the chip timings several times as well as updating to the latest chip firmware. It doesn't make a difference. If I had known in advance how much of a pain in the ass having an OLED would be (between the first installer lying about bricking it and my new console not booting correctly) I wouldn't have bothered upgrading.

Sounds like problem on your end, I just check mine, my oled with HWFLY autoboot in 20 seconds or so to Horizon OS.

 

[hippy dave]

I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.

Edit: I've tried resetting the chip timings several times as well as updating to the latest chip firmware. It doesn't make a difference. If I had known in advance how much of a pain in the ass having an OLED would be (between the first installer lying about bricking it and my new console not booting correctly) I wouldn't have bothered upgrading.

This doesn't sound normal from the discussion I've seen. I hope you can get it sorted, maybe some of the expert installers around here can help.

 

[randy_w]

I don't know if it's common but on my Mariko I would consistently get 2-3 second glitch times from the chip, where as on my OLED I regularly have to wait upwards of a minute, if it boots at all. For some reason my OLED will sometimes get a "successful" boot where the LED on the chip goes green and then nothing happens. All I can do in that situation is force power off the console and wait several hours to try again. If I try to boot again shortly after forcing the console off it will do exactly the same thing. It makes developing homebrew a giant pain in the ass and is the biggest reason I have not released version 2 of the save manager yet or some of my other projects that I've been working on for months. Really annoying when you're making a lot of progress developing something and then suddenly you can't do anything because the OS crashed and the Switch won't boot anymore.

Edit: I've tried resetting the chip timings several times as well as updating to the latest chip firmware. It doesn't make a difference. If I had known in advance how much of a pain in the ass having an OLED would be (between the first installer lying about bricking it and my new console not booting correctly) I wouldn't have bothered upgrading.

I've modded about 20 OLED consoles by now and I've never seen anything like this before. All consoles I worked on boot within 5 seconds. I do notice a small difference between models with hynix emmc and samsung emmc, where hynix emmc model takes about 2-3 seconds longer to glitch and that's about it.

Maybe you are unlucky and got one with a hard to glitch SoC, I've seen people posting here talking about hard to glitch korean oled systems. Or your modder just did a shitty job.

 

[Marc_LFD]

If a Switch Pro ever sees the light of day, I'll sell my unhacked one.

A Switch Pro this late? lol.

You're more likely to see its successor, but considering that Nintendo is milking the Switch as much as possible, they might con-- I mean release a Switch Pro which its fans so much want.

 

[fvig2001]

3 normal V1s and 1 OLED

 

[Benja81]

3 here. Original non hackable Switch, my daughter plays her animal crossing online etc. We like that there is no worry about ever being banned on that one. I got lucky on an Amazon Switch that touted "low serial" and ended up being exploitable.
Then my daughter saw how many games I had, even though I only play a couple of them, so I found a hackable one for her on ebay. So in reality my daughter has 2 and I have 1, I don't play online or we might have 4 lol. As you could see I'd say its worth it and especially since original could be saved for online stuff where you wont have to worry about bans. If you end up not needing it anymore could sell it back on ebay etc as "low serial."

 

[CompSciOrBust]

I've seen people posting here talking about hard to glitch korean oled systems. Or your modder just did a shitty job.

I probably got unlucky with a hard to glitch system then. The person who did it for me doesn't want it to be publicly known that they do installs (fear of getting a C&D) but they're definitely someone who would do a good job. They're someone who's well known for the research they did in to how the chips work.

This doesn't sound normal from the discussion I've seen. I hope you can get it sorted, maybe some of the expert installers around here can help.

I've given up hope at this point. I've had it for around 6 months now and I've tried just about everything I can think of other than putting a different chip in there, but that would require shipping it back to my installer and I'm on a limited budget being a student (I've already wasted upwards of £600 on OLED stuff at this point which is a significant amount of my disposable income). It doesn't really matter though, the only homebrews I've made that people actually use are Amiigo (which is fine as is) and my cloud save manager, but JKSV is working on adding cloud saves to his save manager now so my manager will be redundant soon enough.

This is getting off topic now though, so tl;dr for op. As someone who has purchased many Switches IMO Mariko is the best model. Other people would disagree and say go for an OLED though.

 

[Viri]

I have a Switch and a Steam Deck, does that count?