Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

isoboy

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ghosting can't usually be solved using the potentiometer. ghosting occurs on 40pin boards and it requires de-soldering of some components to make it work correctly.
That's super interesting to me, I didn't know this. All I know is the 32pin one is more rare (isn't it?) but it's what I have. I don't have any ghosting whatsoever.
 

gibberish

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That's super interesting to me, I didn't know this. All I know is the 32pin one is more rare (isn't it?) but it's what I have. I don't have any ghosting whatsoever.

yeah the 32pin boards aren't as common. in the UK maybe 1 in 5 or 1 in 6 that i buy is a 32pin board. and you're right, those modifications aren't needed on the 32pin boards, only the DA1 mod.
 

malheur

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ghosting can't usually be solved using the potentiometer. ghosting occurs on 40pin boards and it requires de-soldering of some components to make it work correctly.

I know what your saying. If the matter IS actually so called "Ghosting(=image retention)", it needs the modification yes. But the specific matter that NPlayer said was not the "Ghosting". It's the interlacing line issue and it does not need any mod.

In any LCD screen operation, LCD need reference voltage. That reference voltage has to be exact half of operating voltage, and usually it's decided by potentiometer with human bare eye adjustment when it's produced. If that ref-volt-from-pot gone wrong, LCD shows interlace line.

When potentiometer is faulty, because of principle of interlacing, you can see the problem maximized when moving your game character up and down constantly in playing any RPG. Screen looks blurry and/or darken.

If your problem is interlacing, just remove sticker in the middle of backside and turn the potentiometer(it's not screw doesn't matter turn 360 degree), while watch your game character scrolling.
 

JD637

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Does anyone have a good source for ordering the replacement screens in Europe? I'm in Germany, so there's a 19% import tax (plus a few bucks for "customs processing"). Screens on Amazon.de are €45 shipped from China, so I'm looking at upwards of €60. Just curious if anyone knew of anywhere within the EU with a better price.
 

MichiS97

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Does anyone have a good source for ordering the replacement screens in Europe? I'm in Germany, so there's a 19% import tax (plus a few bucks for "customs processing"). Screens on Amazon.de are €45 shipped from China, so I'm looking at upwards of €60. Just curious if anyone knew of anywhere within the EU with a better price.
I've ordered three AGS-101 screens, two from AliExpress, one from DeadpanRobot.

When I ordered from Ali I paid about 36€ including shipping. Though they are a little more expensive now. You'd be looking at about 45 to 50€ I think.

Now, DeadpanRobot is more expensive. They charge £45, which is about 52€. The advantage is that they ship from England, so your screen should arrive after a couple of days and you'll probably have better chances to get a refund if your screen arrives dead on arrival.

Don't know what you're on about the import tax. I never had to pay that when I ordered from Ali.
 

JD637

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I've ordered three AGS-101 screens, two from AliExpress, one from DeadpanRobot.

When I ordered from Ali I paid about 36€ including shipping. Though they are a little more expensive now. You'd be looking at about 45 to 50€ I think.

Now, DeadpanRobot is more expensive. They charge £45, which is about 52€. The advantage is that they ship from England, so your screen should arrive after a couple of days and you'll probably have better chances to get a refund if your screen arrives dead on arrival.

Don't know what you're on about the import tax. I never had to pay that when I ordered from Ali.

You didn't have to pay import tax from Ali?? That's great to hear. I've had to pay import taxes a couple times recently when ordering from Zavvi. They shipped from the Channel Islands, which I guess are British but not part of the EU (strangely enough). Here's my receipt for €12.46 in import fees (€6.46 tax + €6.00 flat processing fees) on a €35 Blu-Ray (oops, I can't post links or images yet. You can see the photo on Imgur if you add "/a/REFCnPs" to the URL).

I checked Deadpan Robot, but it looks like they raised the price to £55 (£60 including the ribbon cable), and are out of stock. The cheapest I could find on Ali was €50 shipped, but that's probably my best bet now if there's a chance I won't get charged import tax.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

When I ordered from Ali....

By the way, how long did it take for you to receive your orders from Ali? Just curious.

Thanks
 

MichiS97

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You didn't have to pay import tax from Ali?? That's great to hear. I've had to pay import taxes a couple times recently when ordering from Zavvi. They shipped from the Channel Islands, which I guess are British but not part of the EU (strangely enough). Here's my receipt for €12.46 in import fees (€6.46 tax + €6.00 flat processing fees) on a €35 Blu-Ray (oops, I can't post links or images yet. You can see the photo on Imgur if you add "/a/REFCnPs" to the URL).

I checked Deadpan Robot, but it looks like they raised the price to £55 (£60 including the ribbon cable), and are out of stock. The cheapest I could find on Ali was €50 shipped, but that's probably my best bet now if there's a chance I won't get charged import tax.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



By the way, how long did it take for you to receive your orders from Ali? Just curious.

Thanks

Yeah I've never had to pay import tax when I ordered from Ali. Shipping takes between 2 and 4 weeks, depending on the shipping method you choose
 
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NPlayer

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I know what your saying. If the matter IS actually so called "Ghosting(=image retention)", it needs the modification yes. But the specific matter that NPlayer said was not the "Ghosting". It's the interlacing line issue and it does not need any mod.

In any LCD screen operation, LCD need reference voltage. That reference voltage has to be exact half of operating voltage, and usually it's decided by potentiometer with human bare eye adjustment when it's produced. If that ref-volt-from-pot gone wrong, LCD shows interlace line.

When potentiometer is faulty, because of principle of interlacing, you can see the problem maximized when moving your game character up and down constantly in playing any RPG. Screen looks blurry and/or darken.

If your problem is interlacing, just remove sticker in the middle of backside and turn the potentiometer(it's not screw doesn't matter turn 360 degree), while watch your game character scrolling.


Hi!

I've tried two gba boards, and the pot only generates or mitigates the ghosting. I can't change interlacing. Could it be the ribbon I'm using? It doesn't have any resistor, although it has pads for two of them. What would be the best ribbon for my 40 pin gba and brown tabbed ags 101?

Thanks!
 

Liriel

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ghosting can't usually be solved using the potentiometer. ghosting occurs on 40pin boards and it requires de-soldering of some components to make it work correctly.

kvlhvSn.jpg
There are newer cable Adapter that doesnt need it.
Aurora is one of the cable.
And some 40 pin doesnt need the desoldering

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Liriel

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Does anyone have a good source for ordering the replacement screens in Europe? I'm in Germany, so there's a 19% import tax (plus a few bucks for "customs processing"). Screens on Amazon.de are €45 shipped from China, so I'm looking at upwards of €60. Just curious if anyone knew of anywhere within the EU with a better price.

Vergiss es. Die Preise sind längst hoch gegangen.
Und die einfuhrumsatzsteuer ist doch ein Klacks.
Bei 46 € sind es rund 8-9 Euro und da kommst net über 60 Euro sondern drunter.
Die Displays kommen nur noch aus Asien da nachbauen.
Orginale kriegst nur wenn du nen gba sp kaufst die sind aber schweine teuer.
Wenn du billig haben willst Bau auf front Beleuchtung ala Ags001 um..

For the englisch people:
Forget it. The prices have long gone up.
And the import tax is a breeze.
At 46 € it is around 8-9 euros.
The displays come only from Asia as replica.
You can get a Orginal g only if you buy a gba sp but they are expensive.
When you want it cheap Then Make a Front Light like the ags001

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JD637

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Vergiss es. Die Preise sind längst hoch gegangen.
Und die einfuhrumsatzsteuer ist doch ein Klacks.
Bei 46 € sind es rund 8-9 Euro und da kommst net über 60 Euro sondern drunter.
Die Displays kommen nur noch aus Asien da nachbauen.
Orginale kriegst nur wenn du nen gba sp kaufst die sind aber schweine teuer.
Wenn du billig haben willst Bau auf front Beleuchtung ala Ags001 um..

For the englisch people:
Forget it. The prices have long gone up.
And the import tax is a breeze.
At 46 € it is around 8-9 euros.
The displays come only from Asia as replica.
You can get a Orginal g only if you buy a gba sp but they are expensive.
When you want it cheap Then Make a Front Light like the ags001

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Thanks for the reply. Yeah, that seems to be the going price these days. I ended up buying an already-modded AGB-001 on ebay with a 101 screen for 79€. It was a cheap price because there was an issue with image being washed out. I took a gamble, hoping it could be fixed by an adjustment of the potentiometer or soldering a ground wire. It turns out the potentiometer was actually broken (the knob had come off and was loose inside the case). All was not lost though. I removed the screen and put it into another AGB-001 that I had, and it works perfectly.

I then put the non-backlit AGB-001 screen into the GBA with the broken potentiometer, and it now has the same issue of the washed out image. So it is definitely a problem with the potentiometer and/or motherboard, not the screens. Is there any way I can fix this? Perhaps soldering a wire between two points somewhere on the board to bypass the potentiometer? I tried putting the knob back on the pot, but it's not happening.

Non-backlit screen w/ washed out image:
IMG_9269.jpg IMG_9270.jpg

Here is the new 101 screen put into my old GBA. It's glorious. :)
IMG_9271 (1).jpg
 
Last edited by JD637,
D

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Hello,
does anyone know, if it is possible to use LCD display from another of GBs family into GBA? For example GBA Micro, it has the same resolution, etc.
 

Liriel

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Hello,
does anyone know, if it is possible to use LCD display from another of GBs family into GBA? For example GBA Micro, it has the same resolution, etc.
Gba micro screen is smaller the gba and gba sp. 2" vs 2.9"

ags-101 backlight screen fit in the gba but need a Adapter.

Bennvenn works on a ndsl bottom screen in the gba

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D

Deleted User

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Yea, I was searching for that while I was waiting for someone's answer. That's a pitty, because I found a lot of screen which are sold for much more cheaper price than GBA's 001 or 101 screens. Thank you anyway...
 

David51

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Hello everyone, I'm desperate because I'm blocking on this auto. I have a gba whose number starts with 1 so 32 pin, a screen type B it seems to me with the white connector, I soldered the cable of the connector on the left leg of the 12 resistor and yet nothing works, when I turn on the console the screen flashes, the operating indicator changes from green to red and nothing, black screen (I can send you a Wetransfer video). I hope I didn't damage the motherboard during the soldering process?

Also when I undo the solder, the screen seems to work but you can barely see it because there is no backlight. On the other hand a screen that is not ags-101 works even without soldering but the backlight is too poor for my taste I would prefer an agi 101.

Could you please help me? thanks.
 

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unixb0y

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Hi guys, I have a GBA where the model number starts with a "0" (40 pin) and ordered a screen with white connector earlier today :cry:
I read that in some cases, it worked just fine, so I really hope that it does since I don't really want to cut and solder wires to the ribbon cable.
Actually, I tried to find an eBay seller in Germany or Europe who sells screens with the dark cable and uneven trace widths, but couldn't find any, otherwise I'd just have cancelled the order. Are there any European shops maybe who sell stuff like this?
The aurora cable looks pretty neat, especially since it's so compact and doesn't require to fold the expensive screen's ribbon cable :wacko: But also quite on the expensive side.
I might actually re-sell the GBA (bought it used pretty cheap) and try to buy one with the 32 pin model alongside a new adapter in case the image isn't ok.
But I'll update the status so we have some more data on the whole 40-pin/white-connector issue :hateit:
 

Liriel

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Hi guys, I have a GBA where the model number starts with a "0" (40 pin) and ordered a screen with white connector earlier today :cry:
I read that in some cases, it worked just fine, so I really hope that it does since I don't really want to cut and solder wires to the ribbon cable.
Actually, I tried to find an eBay seller in Germany or Europe who sells screens with the dark cable and uneven trace widths, but couldn't find any, otherwise I'd just have cancelled the order. Are there any European shops maybe who sell stuff like this?
The aurora cable looks pretty neat, especially since it's so compact and doesn't require to fold the expensive screen's ribbon cable :wacko: But also quite on the expensive side.
I might actually re-sell the GBA (bought it used pretty cheap) and try to buy one with the 32 pin model alongside a new adapter in case the image isn't ok.
But I'll update the status so we have some more data on the whole 40-pin/white-connector issue :hateit:

With dark cable are rare Because that are original screen and they can only found in gba sp.
All other are white cable and after market.

On the 40pin typ b Display i would take the Aurora Adapter!
Its better and has a dimming function on it and no need to adjust the Potentiometer.
The screen Quality is really good and bright with the Adapter and has no problems against a32 pin gba.

And expensive is it not! 20 Euro is no thing for what it can.

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zfreeman

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Hi guys, I have a GBA where the model number starts with a "0" (40 pin) and ordered a screen with white connector earlier today :cry:
I read that in some cases, it worked just fine, so I really hope that it does since I don't really want to cut and solder wires to the ribbon cable.
Actually, I tried to find an eBay seller in Germany or Europe who sells screens with the dark cable and uneven trace widths, but couldn't find any, otherwise I'd just have cancelled the order. Are there any European shops maybe who sell stuff like this?
The aurora cable looks pretty neat, especially since it's so compact and doesn't require to fold the expensive screen's ribbon cable :wacko: But also quite on the expensive side.
I might actually re-sell the GBA (bought it used pretty cheap) and try to buy one with the 32 pin model alongside a new adapter in case the image isn't ok.
But I'll update the status so we have some more data on the whole 40-pin/white-connector issue :hateit:

40-pin GBA + white-tab LCD screen
remove
: R16, R17, C33, C54, Q3
connect: REVC to P2-VEE
sources: I have done this mod myself.

https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/9546-UR-GBA-Backlight-Screen-Mod-AGS-101-Display/?postID=593578

https://www.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/comments/5r8i0e/ags101_gba_mod_image_retention_fix_40pin_white
 
Last edited by zfreeman,

Liriel

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With some Modells it is not needed to desolder the parts.
With Aurora Adapter it is not needed to desoldering the parts or Connect different parts.

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Last edited by Liriel,

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