Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[tecfreak]

@mattytrog
https://github.com/CTCaer/hekate/issues

Hekate will get many new features in the near future, like payload chainloading, linux boot (lakka) and a modular design (modules offloaded onto the sd card). So there is probably no pont in having the trinket to boot different payloads, as hekate will support this feature.

 

[mattytrog]

Put it in OP Matty. I have been busy with life lol

That and the fact that i just scored on this little gem for 50 USD has distanced me from the Switch for about two days now haha
I know this is 2004 B.C old but still i am pretty stoked

I will jump back on it tomorrow!

- Mikel

Check the pic!

Trolls will say unrelated HOWEVER it is Team Xecuter we are talking about here

View attachment 138824

Wow... Just... Wow.

@mattytrog
https://github.com/CTCaer/hekate/issues

Hekate will get many new features in the near future, like payload chainloading, linux boot (lakka) and a modular design (modules offloaded onto the sd card). So there is probably no pont in having the trinket to boot different payloads, as hekate will support this feature.

Very true!

It was only a test anyway.

Booting Lakka... Brill idea...

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mattytrog]

Would the update override AutoRCM?

No. Nothing can override autoRCM, apart from a Nintendo update

 

[popy]

Method 1 & 2 = same as old file.

thx a lot for the great and fast support your are doing here!
So i leave my old payload in.

One more question:
Is the trinket, with the new power solder point and method 2, now fast enought on boot to pull RCM, PWR & VOL+ ?
Regardless of this i currently have AutoRCM installed, but thinking of switching to method 2.

thx
pOpY

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mattytrog]

thx a lot for the great and fast support your are doing here!
So i leave my old payload in.

One more question:
Is the trinket, with the new power solder point and method 2, now fast enought on boot to pull RCM, PWR & VOL+ ?
Regardless of this i currently have AutoRCM installed, but thinking of switching to method 2.

thx
pOpY

No. The trinket is too slow. The bootloader needs changing to pull pin 0 (vol+) low as well as pin 3 (JoyconRCM)

I just updated one of my consoles to 5.1.0 and now it boots into OFW

Trinket lights are normal until it is supposed to flash green, it flashes red.

I am able to boot into OFW with or without an SD card.

Damn. Hahahaha

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Bloody hell...it was booting beautifully until i updated

EDIT: Not a big deal at all as i own 6 consoles. However i do think it’s important to figure out the cause.

Hi Mikel.

If you update using ANY official update, autoRCM is disabled... Thanks Nintendo!

So any official Nintendo update will disable autoRCM.

If doing any official update, have jig or modded joycon in place and hold down vol+ just as its about to finish.

To get back to trinket boot, you need to enable autoRCM once again

 

[mattytrog]

OP updated with something to try...

Fancy choosing between Hekate, SXOS and Linux???

 

[64Dp128k]

OP updated with something to try...

Fancy choosing between Hekate, SXOS and Linux???

Which methods

 

[mattytrog]

Which methods

All new ones. Shall I make a legacy one?

 

[64Dp128k]

All new ones. Shall I make a legacy one?

cheers I'm on the new method 1.

 

[mattytrog]

cheers I'm on the new method 1.

Ok. You will need to solder a wire to pin 1 on trinket and run it somewhere... Out of the stand or something and ground on shielding.

 

[64Dp128k]

Ok. You will need to solder a wire to pin 1 on trinket and run it somewhere... Out of the stand or something and ground on shielding.

so pin 1 on trinket soldered to the sheilding or vol -?

 

[mattytrog]

so pin 1 on trinket soldered to the sheilding or vol -?

If you want to solder to vol-, you can. Better off just having it loose and grounding to shielding for now...

 

[64Dp128k]

If you want to solder to vol-, you can. Better off just having it loose and grounding to shielding for now...

Great, how do I change payloads if I leave it loose.

 

[mattytrog]

Great, how do I change payloads if I leave it loose.

You just touch the wire to the shielding.

 

[64Dp128k]

You just touch the wire to the shielding.

Ok what about a permanent solution? Has to be to vol - right, you also mentioned and non pin 1 version for method 1?

 

[popy]

No. The trinket is too slow. The bootloader needs changing to pull pin 0 (vol+) low as well as pin 3 (JoyconRCM)



Hi Mikel.

If you update using ANY official update, autoRCM is disabled... Thanks Nintendo!

So any official Nintendo update will disable autoRCM.

If doing any official update, have jig or modded joycon in place and hold down vol+ just as its about to finish.

To get back to trinket boot, you need to enable autoRCM once again

So what's the purpose of trinket pin 3 to RCM when its to slow?
Just asking because thinking to switch to method 2, buts whats the cons about it?

pOpY

 

[mattytrog]

So what's the purpose of trinket pin 3 to RCM when its to slow?
Just asking because thinking to switch to method 2, buts whats the cons about it?

pOpY

Method 3 doesn`t cold-boot the trinket as it always has powered. Cold-boot = too slow, soft reset (method 3) = fast enough.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

To quote myself

Ok the difference between 2 & 3...

Method 2 shuts down the trinket 100% when console is off. No sleep or any of that nonsense.
Method 3 is under constant power while off (though it is sleeping)

If you want to cold-boot a payload without autoRCM all the time, we need to simulate the joycon and vol+ being pressed. This is accomplished by those lines going to ground. This needs to be done at boot-time.

However, in method 2... Once you power on, the trinket takes about 1/4 second to boot and begin to push the payload. This is too slow.

In method 3, the trinket is already booted (though sleeping) because it has constant power. Therefore it only requires a soft-reset which we get from pin 2.

So, you are thinking "OK, so the trinket cold-boots in method 2, but its too slow to hold the button/joycon strap low in enough time to catch the bootloader before the standard nintendo bootloader loads... So why have it listed from cold-boot at all?"

Good question... Thanks to a quirk in the trinket bootloader, when you hard-reset the trinket, instead of leaving all GPIOs floating like it should, pin 3 is PULLED LOW. Straight away, done at the lowest level in the actual trinket UF2 bootloader firmware.

We take advantage of this by sending that pulled-low pin 3 (joycon strap) to ground when the trinket is hard reset which happens when you press the power/wake button on console.

This allows us to choose to dual-boot. So, the sequence goes...

• Method 2 - console power / wake button is pressed...
• This grounds pin 3(joycon strap) thanks to bootloader "bug"
• We can choose to press vol+ at this time (for hax) or not (for standard boot)

We can do exactly the same for method 3... But in method 3 we have the option of using the vol+ strap (as in all methods, both straps are pulled low at soft-reset) because we don`t need to wait that split-second for the trinket to cold-boot as its already booted. So just a soft reset is instantaenous.

Bear in mind though, that the vol+ strap in method 3 once fitted, is fitted. So you cannot dual-boot. You are stuck with it. Unless you flash a special "pin 0(vol+ strap)" disabling fusee launcher. Easy to do. Just say the word.

I hope this makes sense.

 

[popy]

Method 3 doesn`t cold-boot the trinket as it always has powered. Cold-boot = too slow, soft reset (method 3) = fast enough.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

To quote myself

Now its clear to me! Thx, will go with method 2.