Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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efxonly123

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I haven't seen anyone mention this, but that capacitor where you attach the 3v line is not the same physical size on all versions of the switch. The first switch opened had an extremely small capacitor, but this new one I just opened has a much bigger cap and it's "easier" to solder to without bridging with the adjacent cap.
 
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Muta

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I haven't seen anyone mention this, but that capacitor where you attach the 3v line is not the same physical size on all versions of the switch. The first switch opened had an extremely small capacitor, but this new one I just opened has a much bigger cap and it's "easier" to solder to without bridging with the adjacent cap.
you have a pic?
 

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hello guys... please I need help, im feeling desperate right now...

as you know i messed up my old switch once and failed to repair it, now i tried to install the trinket into my new system and im having a super weird problem, im losing it right now...

here is what happend, i took my system apart completly so i could solder properly, i did the 4 pins perfectly and got all the 4 wires ready to be soldered to the trinket

then after putting my system back together, i try to turn it on... and the screen is not working! permanetly black!! the weird thing is that the system works! I can even use the touch screen and listen to horizon sounds when moving through the menu but the screen is just black!

So even though my ribbon cable looked perfect I decided trying to use my old switch screen and see if something change, but nope.. still the same, able to launch horizon and use touchscreen but the screen itself is still black... what the hell is going on? i dont get how could i mess that? I didn't get close to anything related to the screen or it connectors at all.. but it is just black.....

I can't rly afford to lose another system and even know i was taking a risk, just.. not like this? what the hell? this does not make sense... any ideas?

thank you.
 

mattytrog

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hello guys... please I need help, im feeling desperate right now...

as you know i messed up my old switch once and failed to repair it, now i tried to install the trinket into my new system and im having a super weird problem, im losing it right now...

here is what happend, i took my system apart completly so i could solder properly, i did the 4 pins perfectly and got all the 4 wires ready to be soldered to the trinket

then after putting my system back together, i try to turn it on... and the screen is not working! permanetly black!! the weird thing is that the system works! I can even use the touch screen and listen to horizon sounds when moving through the menu but the screen is just black!

So even though my ribbon cable looked perfect I decided trying to use my old switch screen and see if something change, but nope.. still the same, able to launch horizon and use touchscreen but the screen itself is still black... what the hell is going on? i dont get how could i mess that? I didn't get close to anything related to the screen or it connectors at all.. but it is just black.....

I can't rly afford to lose another system and even know i was taking a risk, just.. not like this? what the hell? this does not make sense... any ideas?

thank you.

The LCD cable can be tricky to get back in place. It can feel and seem as though it is pushed home, even though it isn`t.

There should be NO GOLD on ribbon cable visible at all when the latch is back in place. If you see any gold, it isn`t in correctly.

In fact... Can you post a HIGH RESOLUTION photo of the board? I`ll take a good look
 

efxonly123

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mattytrog, I'm using method 1, but for some reason after I select boot sx os it takes 30 seconds before the nintendo switch to show up, it sits there for about 15 seconds, and then the horizion screen shows up. If I select boot ofw from the sx os or if I boot the ofw normally, it all loads within a matter of seconds. I saw a few videos and it seems that loading sx os is faster in the videos I've seen. Do you have any ideas of what could be causing this? Thank you
 

mattytrog

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mattytrog, I'm using method 1, but for some reason after I select boot sx os it takes 30 seconds before the nintendo switch to show up, it sits there for about 15 seconds, and then the horizion screen shows up. If I select boot ofw from the sx os or if I boot the ofw normally, it all loads within a matter of seconds. I saw a few videos and it seems that loading sx os is faster in the videos I've seen. Do you have any ideas of what could be causing this? Thank you

Hmmm... Well, I`m confident it is nothing in the UF2 file.

Lets see...

Can you try with a different memory card?
 

efxonly123

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Hmmm... Well, I`m confident it is nothing in the UF2 file.

Lets see...

Can you try with a different memory card?

Just tried a different memory card and it's exactly the same amount of time. Loading the ofw either way is normal, but only the cfw is slowing the boot time.
 

mattytrog

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Just tried a different memory card and it's exactly the same amount of time. Loading the ofw either way is normal, but only the cfw is slowing the boot time.

Try with an empty memory card, just the boot.dat on there...Don`t even put your licence.dat on there. Generate a new lincence-request.dat.

What happens then?
 

mattytrog

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same thing.

Well... If SX loader menu is coming up straight away when console is powered up... It`s nothing to do with the trinket.

Guessing you are autoRCM... What firmware are you on? Has it always done this? What happens when you try an older boot.dat? (ie SXOS 1.3)
 

efxonly123

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Well... If SX loader menu is coming up straight away when console is powered up... It`s nothing to do with the trinket.

Guessing you are autoRCM... What firmware are you on? Has it always done this? What happens when you try an older boot.dat? (ie SXOS 1.3)
I haven't set up autorcm yet. I'm on 4.1.0 now, but was getting ready to go to 5.1.0. This is my first time installing the trinket in this switch. I tried with both 1.4 and 1.3, but still no difference.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I installed autorcm, but when I press the power button to turn it on, the sx os screen flashes for a second but then loads into horizon. It doesn't stop at the sx os menu screen. Not sure if that is supposed to happen or not.
 
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mattytrog

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I haven't set up autorcm yet. I'm on 4.1.0 now, but was getting ready to go to 5.1.0. This is my first time installing the trinket in this switch. I tried with both 1.4 and 1.3, but still no difference.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I installed autorcm, but when I press the power button to turn it on, the sx os screen flashes for a second but then loads into horizon. It doesn't stop at the sx os menu screen. Not sure if that is supposed to happen or not.

If you have purchased a licence then it will autoboot. When it loads are you in CFW?
 

efxonly123

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I haven't put any games on it yet to test if it's going to cfw or ofw, but from the delay in loading, I'm assuming it's the cfw. I'm going to check the wires again because I can't get into trinketboot any more either.
 

mattytrog

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I haven't put any games on it yet to test if it's going to cfw or ofw, but from the delay in loading, I'm assuming it's the cfw. I'm going to check the wires again because I can't get into trinketboot any more either.
Disconnect USB, double-press reset to turn trinket LED red, then plug in. Should turn green.
 

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