Hacking Question Alternate Joycon Pinlouts

[Shadow LAG]

I know I'm usually the one helping out where I can, but I find myself in need of assistance. I've discovered my solder tip is a little too big for the test points on the Joycon and I would like to access the larger solder points on the rail itself. Problem is, I can't seem to locate my Multimeter. Can anyone be kind of enough to locate / provide pinout for Pin 1 and Pin 10 on the points below?

 

[Kubas_inko]

Here you go.

Spoiler

 

[Shadow LAG]

Here you go.

Spoiler

I remember seeing this picture but the color codes weren't there: https://gbatemp.net/threads/tutorial-how-to-test-fusee-gelee.501846/

Thank you kindly.

 

[Kubas_inko]

I remember seeing this picture but the color codes weren't there: https://gbatemp.net/threads/tutorial-how-to-test-fusee-gelee.501846/

Thank you kindly.

Yea. That's our old picture.

 

[Shadow LAG]

Yea. That's our old picture.

I see, thank you for providing the updated information. Out of curiosity, is that Pin 9 and 10? If so, would Pin 1 be furthest top left Pin? I want to make sure since I'm not too fond of 9+10 combo

 

[Kubas_inko]

I see, thank you for providing the updated information. Out of curiosity, is that Pin 9 and 10? If so, would Pin 1 be furthest top left Pin? I want to make sure since I'm not too fond of 9+10 combo

Yes. Those are pin 9 and 10. Maybe it will be like this, but I am not sure, as I have not tested it.

1 3 5 7 9
2 4 6 8 10

 

[Shadow LAG]

Yes. Those are pin 9 and 10. Maybe it will be like this, but I am not sure, as I have not tested it.

1 3 5 7 9
2 4 6 8 10

That's what I imagined but if you aren't for sure, I'll just use this for now, and revisit when I have my multimeter. Thanks again.

 

[aut0mat3d]

The Pinout is correct!
I used Pin1 and 10

 

[WadsRUs]

The Pinout is correct!
I used Pin1 and 10

That seems to be the best way, there is some cautionary advice regarding using pin 9 as Ground, as noted here and for a few posts after that:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/the-ultimate-list-of-mods-to-enter-rcm.502145/page-4#post-7943125

It's looks like it's best to use pin 1 as Ground instead of pin 9 because there's the chance that pin 9 could be pulled High by some software (see details in above link).

 

[aut0mat3d]

That seems to be the best way, there is some cautionary advice regarding using pin 9 as Ground, as noted here and for a few posts after that:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/the-ultimate-list-of-mods-to-enter-rcm.502145/page-4#post-7943125

It's looks like it's best to use pin 1 as Ground instead of pin 9 because there's the chance that pin 9 could be pulled High by some software (see details in above link).

You are correct.
I also added a 2K2 Resistor in Series to be on the save side

 

[Shadow LAG]

The Pinout is correct!
I used Pin1 and 10

I wish I saw this before stripping away extra pins to make a jig rail. Turns out Pin 9 actually is Joycon ground which means it must be attached in order to enter RCM, where as 1 is switch ground. It's fine though, I have a wired soldered to it to reach fan shroud. I just wanted to eliminate third part jigs because of risk to scratch pins. I'll order in more Joycon side rails and make another one per your confirmation. I feel like this information needs added here: https://github.com/dekuNukem/Nintendo_Switch_Reverse_Engineering

 

[chaoskagami]

Warning; I recommend against bending the pins or messing with the pins whatsoever. Use the breakout. I tried that and not only couldn't get pin 9 to hit pin 10 on the joycon rail, but destroyed pin 9 on my joycon. Just get the solder out. You can unbridge the connection afterwards, it isn't that hard.

I still ended up making a valid albeit semi-destroyed jig, though. I soldered a wire to pin 10 on the connector (green point under the foam) and bridging said wire to a screw via the hole in the connector, which while ugly as hell does work.

Turns out Pin 9 actually is Joycon ground which means it must be attached in order to enter RCM, where as 1 is switch ground. It's fine though, I have a wired soldered to it to reach fan shroud. I just wanted to eliminate third part jigs because of risk to scratch pins. I'll order in more Joycon side rails and make another one per your confirmation. I feel like this information needs added here: https://github.com/dekuNukem/Nintendo_Switch_Reverse_Engineering

I don't think so. I don't even have a pin 9 anymore.

 

[Shadow LAG]

Warning; I recommend against bending the pins. I tried that and not only couldn't get pin 9 to hit pin 10, but destroyed pin 9. Just get the solder out. You can unbridge the connection afterwards, it isn't that hard.

I still ended up making a valid albeit semi-destroyed jig, though. I soldering a wire to pin 10 on the connector (green point under the foam) and bridging said wire to a screw via the hole in the connector, which while ugly as hell does work.

I appreciate the concern; however, no one is bending pins in this thread. I actually already have a Jig, I just wanted to create one from an official rail and needed to confirm pinouts for the alternate points. This was for soldering to the area in green box. I've been one the most vocal about not bending pins.

 

[PriMieon]

Yes. Those are pin 9 and 10. Maybe it will be like this, but I am not sure, as I have not tested it.

1 3 5 7 9
2 4 6 8 10

but thats the pin layout?
I want to solder 1 and 10

 

[Shadow LAG]

but thats the pin layout?
I want to solder 1 and 10

That is the pinout for the alternate points in the green box in my picture, yes.

 

[aut0mat3d]

but thats the pin layout?
I want to solder 1 and 10

 

[Shadow LAG]

I don't think so. I don't even have a pin 9 anymore.

What I mean is this. Pin 9 grounds to joycon which means you cannot use the Joycon rail portion standalone as it grounds to the PCB of the joycon. 1 and 10 are independent and don't require a Joycon at all.

 

[chaoskagami]

What I mean is this. Pin 9 grounds to joycon which means you cannot use the Joycon rail portion standalone as it grounds to the PCB of the joycon. 1 and 10 are independent and don't require a Joycon at all.

Ah. If 9 grounds to Joycon rather than Switch, that would explain why my attempts using just a rail didn't work. If you're using just a rail without the whole joycon, that's an open connection, not grounded. That should be documented.

I appreciate the concern; however, no one is bending pins in this thread.

@Kubas_inko's image mentioned it. I guess that was unnecessary, sorry.

 

[FAST6191]

"I've discovered my solder tip is a little too big for the test points on the Joycon"

What are you soldering with? An iron designed for plumbing or attaching tags to something?
I occasionally like fine tips for soldering where I can get them but your average firestarter iron should be more than suitable with proper technique.

 

[aut0mat3d]

do not solder too hot and keep away from the flex print