Hacking Can someone recommend an easy way to short pin 10 without taking apart the joycon?

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Has anyone removed the rail to see if it's easier to accomplish that way? None of my Phillips screwdrivers are sharp enough.

I don't know if anyone answered your question, but I did, and there is, depending on what you call easy.

aqq3ITK.jpg

They're small, but I've had 100% success with them. It's also better than bending the inside rails pins or damaging them.
 
I don't know if anyone answered your question, but I did, and there is, depending on what you call easy.

aqq3ITK.jpg

They're small, but I've had 100% success with them. It's also better than bending the inside rails pins or damaging them.
I think this might actually be easier and safer. Thanks for sharing.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
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I think this might actually be easier and safer. Thanks for sharing.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yeah, I broke my right rails pins using the methods other people were using, so after I ordered a replacement rail (heh) I went looking for a better area to get at those damn points. This one is great, solderable, safe, and easier. Below is a better picture:

T50D2Eb.jpg
 
Yeah, I broke my right rails pins using the methods other people were using, so after I ordered a replacement rail (heh) I went looking for a better area to get at those damn points. This one is great, solderable, safe, and easier. Below is a better picture:

T50D2Eb.jpg
Yup, contacts are actually easier to reach just by removing the rail itself. However, shouldn't i have a ribbon connected to it? that's the only thing we need to be careful about.
 
honestly cant see where you bridged
anyways what does the switch do when you go into rcm mode(display)
and is the process done when the switch is off or on?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Yeah, I broke my right rails pins using the methods other people were using, so after I ordered a replacement rail (heh) I went looking for a better area to get at those damn points. This one is great, solderable, safe, and easier. Below is a better picture:

T50D2Eb.jpg
 
Yup, contacts are actually easier to reach just by removing the rail itself. However, shouldn't i have a ribbon connected to it? that's the only thing we need to be careful about.
Yeah, there's a ribbon, its kind of tight, but its got enough slack to let you carefully rotate the rail 90º and get at the pins.

honestly cant see where you bridged
anyways what does the switch do when you go into rcm mode(display)
and is the process done when the switch is off or on?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------
I didn't bridge in that picture, but its just like the other methods once you get to the points.
When you get into rcm the switch will be entirely black, no backlight, no logos, this is when you load the payload via fusee launcher.
Short the points while the switch is off. When they are ready, power on the device and hold volume up.
 
I strongly urge people not do perform the bend pin trick on the joycon as it is not sustainable for daily use. I was able to move pin 9 over to pin 10, but as the joycon attaches after a few times it begins to bend the pin back. I tried various methods to bend the pin back which allowed the exploit to work again; however, after this occurring several times, eventually the joint weakened and came off.

I'm picking up another Joycon and I'll be solder bridging the new one internally, and using it as a spare wireless controller / exploit controller.

EDIT: If anyone is wondering what the worse case scenario is when you lose pin 9 and 10, the switch just doesn't detect the joycons as being attached; however, it does register as charging.
 
Last edited by Shadow LAG,
From the looks of it, nothing is permanent. Joycon pin bending doesn't impede normal function, and everything else seems to be "put it on press buttons then remove".

Not sure what Dr. Doom is doing with a microswitch but I like the idea. Can we see pictures? I wanna hire my local tiny soldering guy :D

Just install switch inside joycon
http://image.ibb.co/gobK8c/joycon1.png
 
Yeah, there's a ribbon, its kind of tight, but its got enough slack to let you carefully rotate the rail 90º and get at the pins.


I didn't bridge in that picture, but its just like the other methods once you get to the points.
When you get into rcm the switch will be entirely black, no backlight, no logos, this is when you load the payload via fusee launcher.
Short the points while the switch is off. When they are ready, power on the device and hold volume up.

mk
so short
power on
and hold the +(letgo power)

or hold power and + always
 
From the looks of it, nothing is permanent. Joycon pin bending doesn't impede normal function, and everything else seems to be "put it on press buttons then remove".

Not sure what Dr. Doom is doing with a microswitch but I like the idea. Can we see pictures? I wanna hire my local tiny soldering guy :D
If we can still use the JoyCon normally while the pins are in bent position, is there any particular need to use a switch or other such device to 'unshort' the pins?
 
ok i think i found an easy alternative can someone who has set it set up test?


so what i did
was shorted 9 and 10 on right joycon by placing a piece of wire in between them and hit a button silmatonuesly
than i had someone hold+ on console and press home button

i dont have fusion gelee installed yet
but the switched stayed black screen and nintendo logo didnt show up
 
That is a super easy mod I did inside my JoyCon. For some reason PIN 9 & 10 wasn't working for me so I used PIN 10 & 1 as f0f recommends. Then soldered micro 32AWG wires to ribbon part of JoyCon connector to 2 position switch, and cut small hole using xacto knife in JoyCon enclosure. My JoyCon is fully functional and whenever I have to trigger RCM I just change switch position on the side of my JoyCon.

joycon2.png


joycon1.png


joycon3.png
 

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