Hardware Do NOT connect USB-C Display

[iceberg303]

I connected my LG 27UD88 USB-C display to the Switch vis USB-C to see if I would get video and it fried the USB-A ports on the Monitor.

I'm not sure what Nintendo is doing over the USB-C connector but it is clearly not standard. My monitor is only a few months old so I'm hoping I can get it fixed/replaced but let my experimentations save you all some grief and be careful what you connect to the4 Switch.

 

[DarkIrata]

Wait Wait Wait Wait.
Let me get this straight.
You connected a USB-C Display via USB-C To USB-C Cable with the Switch. That fried your USB-A on the Display?
I think there is something more fishy with the board on the display if it let something happen like that

 

[rctgamer3]

What cable did you try? If you ordered from Amazon, can you share the URL?

 

[Dimensional]

From what I was told, the Switch's power requirements is 15V 2.4A, which isn't found easily on your typical shop. Could be that the Switch attempted to pull that power from the display, and it couldn't handle it, shorting it.

 

[DarkIrata]

From what I was told, the Switch's power requirements is 15V 2.4A, which isn't found easily on your typical shop. Could be that the Switch attempted to pull that power from the display, and it couldn't handle it, shorting it.

More likely the Switch charged his display.

 

[WiiUBricker]

Well be grateful that your Switch isn't fried.

 

[Dimensional]

More likely the Switch charged his display.

USB ports on monitors don't usually have surge protectors.

 

[DarkIrata]

USB ports on monitors don't usually have surge protectors.

USB-C shouldn't fry a USB-A Port. They NEED protections based on the complete different current use. Thats why you have different plugs.

 

[Dimensional]

USB-C shouldn't fry a USB-A Port. They NEED protections based on the complete different current use. Thats why you have different plugs.

The A isn't pulling power from the C, because it's getting power from the monitor's own power supply. The C is pulling from the A, because it was designed to do that and the only thing it gives is A/V, not raw power, and the A doesn't have a surge protector, so the C is attempting to pull more power than the A is made to give. Without a surge protector on the A side, the power draw overwhelms the A, shorting it.

 

[iceberg303]

I will be contacting LG as like Darklrata I suspect the monitor.

For the record I used the USB-C to USB-C cable included with the monitor.
The monitor appeared to charge the Switch but the switch provided no detectable display.
After disconnecting from the switch and reconnecting to my Mac the USB-A ports on the back no longer worked.

It could also be that it damaged the USB-C port not the USB-A as I am using displayport input as I don't have the new USB-C mac yet. I do not have a way to test which it is only that either the USB-C or USB-A no longer works. I did a full power downs and a full factory reset.

The Switch seems totally unaffected.

 

[Dimensional]

The monitor appeared to charge the Switch but the switch provided no detectable display.

I don't think monitors are made to be able to read video from USB port. At least, typical monitors. You'd need some adapter, most likely. Smart TVs on the other hand can read pictures from USB connected flash drives.

 

[iceberg303]

I don't think monitors are made to be able to read video from USB port. At least, typical monitors. You'd need some adapter, most likely. Smart TVs on the other hand can read pictures from USB connected flash drives.

This is USB-C which transports video. Thats how you get video from your Switch to the dock. I was simply attempting to bypass the doc using a USB-C compatible monitor. One might expect to not get video because of compatibility but you would not expect it to affect the port(s).

 

[Dimensional]

This is USB-C which transports video. Thats how you get video from your Switch to the dock. I was simply attempting to bypass the doc using a USB-C compatible monitor. One might expect to not get video because of compatibility but you would not expect it to affect the port(s).

But the video goes from the Dock to the TV through an HDMI cable, not USB. The Dock is an intermediary, like an adapter, routing the USB input to HDMI. What you're trying to do doesn't have an intermediary.

 

[iceberg303]

But the video goes from the Dock to the TV through an HDMI cable, not USB. The Dock is an intermediary, like an adapter, routing the USB input to HDMI. What you're trying to do doesn't have an intermediary.

Yes but USB-C is a standard. You expect USB-C devices to function according to that standard. Even if they do not support all functions you should be able to expect that no damage would occure as per the specification of the standard.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#USB_Type-C_Specification_1.0

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Also keep in mind I'm not casting blame on Nintendo or LG as I knew what I was doing and at this point I don't know where the point of failure is or why. I'm just posting this as an advisory that the Switch may have some unexpected effects connecting USB-C accessories.

 

[xile6]

Your post makes my head hurt.

Draw out what you did and what broke.

The switchs usb-c port should not blow out anything. The battery inside of it is only 3.7volts. So connecting it to any normally usb power will not blow it out.

NOW the switch does need 15v in order to charge. IF you have a 5v output from the usb port. A cheap usb cable and then the switch trying to suck all the power it can.
Its possible you could of burnt out the cable or usb port by making to much heat.

Same thing happens when you try to us a crappy usb charger with a cellphone while your on the phone. The cable gets hot and after a while the usb charger goes out. All due to heat.


From what i believe your saying is you hook your Switch up to a Monitor usb-c video input? And it didnt work.
You then hook it something to the normal usb port and it wasnt work?

 

[the_randomizer]

Maybe you shouldn't have done that.

 

[migles]

Wait Wait Wait Wait.
Let me get this straight.
You connected a USB-C Display via USB-C To USB-C Cable with the Switch. That fried your USB-A on the Display?
I think there is something more fishy with the board on the display if it let something happen like that

i seen in a youvube video that if you connect the switch into a macbook, it will actually charge the macbook...

 

[iceberg303]

Your post makes my head hurt.

Draw out what you did and what broke.

The switchs usb-c port should not blow out anything. The battery inside of it is only 3.7volts. So connecting it to any normally usb power will not blow it out.

NOW the switch does need 15v in order to charge. IF you have a 5v output from the usb port. A cheap usb cable and then the switch trying to suck all the power it can.
Its possible you could of burnt out the cable or usb port by making to much heat.

Same thing happens when you try to us a crappy usb charger with a cellphone while your on the phone. The cable gets hot and after a while the usb charger goes out. All due to heat.


From what i believe your saying is you hook your Switch up to a Monitor usb-c video input? And it didnt work.
You then hook it something to the normal usb port and it wasnt work?

Sure.

Monitor in question is and LG 27UD88-W

Normally the I have the monitor connected to an older Mac with Displayport and the USB-C connected to the 3.0 USB-A on the mac this make the USB-C just a USB hub (USB-C is polymorphic depending on what is attached at each end) and my mouse and keyboard are attached to the USB-A ports on the monitor.

I used a USB-C cable included with the monitor for attaching it as a display via USB-C to the Nintendo Switch. At this point the Switch began charging but the monitor was unable to see the Switch as a source for display. This was not totally unexpected as there are several display types supported over USB-C and it's possible what the Switch uses is not supported on my monitor.

After reconnecting the LG back to the Mac either the USB-C port or the USB-A ports on the monitor no longer work.

I tried to use the LG live chat at lunch but they were unavailable within the time I had.


For those reading this that are new to USB-C, it is a polymorphic transport and is not like USB 1-3.1. It transports a multitude of different interfaces including but not limited to: USB2.0, USB3.0, USB3.1 HDMI1.3, MHL1.0-3.0, Thunderbolt3, Displayport1.3 and more. Depending on what is on each end it will determine which mode or modes to function in.

 

[Sakitoshi]

I'm gonna leave this here:

Some non-compliant cables with a USB-C connector on one end and a legacy USB-A plug or Micro-B receptacle on the other end incorrectly terminate the Configuration Channel (CC) with a 10kΩ pullup to VBUS instead of the specification mandated 56kΩ pullup, causing a device connected to the cable to incorrectly determine the amount of power it is permitted to draw from the cable. Cables with this issue may not work properly with certain products, including Apple and Google products, and may even damage power sources such as chargers, hubs, or PC USB ports.

Source

 

[iceberg303]

I'm gonna leave this here:

Source

Good source, in this case I am using all the supplied cables from LG so if something is wrong on that front I'm covered under warranty. I wasn't able to get ahold of LG today and will try again tomorrow. I'm still hoping that it's not a hardware failure and can be reset somehow. There is nothing in the switch power wise that should have output enough amps to damage the display. I will let everyone know what LG tells me when I can get ahold of them, their live chat was offline all day today until after I left the office. If it tuns out to be a cable issue that caused it I wont be using the LG cables and get some certified cables before my new Macbook Pro with USB-C shows up later this month.

I'm very curious to find out what did go wrong as this is not supposed to happen assuming the cables are good. It very well could be a bad USB-C cable too but since it was supplied by LG I should be covered.