Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

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I was thinking to make a solderless clip on case just using a cheap crappy shell, just remove the back cover and clip on the shell, pogo pins are lined up perfectly and it will keep it in tight during flashing, nice,cheap,easy and clean. No soldering and console looks untouched once you are finished
 
Considering pogo-pins are a good option for the 3ds XL, and there are at least several tempers interested in such a chip, we might as well go overhaul and replace the majority of the back of the 3ds.

Have features like:

5-pin NAND connector (with a switch to enable/disable the DAT3 line, depending on whether you need to do an unbrick or not.
Extended battery life, or at least larger space in case for battery, or ability to use AA's (lol)
(seriously, why is the only good option right now a $100 pack?)

Obviously I'm dreaming here, but a correctly shaped piece of plastic and this is totally doable. As the pogo pins would be now almost impossible to mis-align and destroy your system, It would totally be an awesome attachment.

Even if not a attachment, something like a docking station/charging cradle with pogopins in the which allows unbricking, restore and backup of the nand...
 
hehe 1st step for my solderless thingy, i'm following n1ghty's design :P don't have more time today and din open the 3dsxl to see if the distances between the pogo pins match the pcb pads, but i think my holes are at same distance as n1ghty's, 2.54mm, i'll continue tomorrow or the next day ^^
You also have to cut the board. :)
 
The RA2 smd resistor array is 100 ohm.

Making a new case or "docking" could be possible using a 3D printer... Someone just has to draw the design ;)
 
Just did a little research. If people are willing to have the extra thickness, there is easily enough room to attach six AA's to the back of an xl, while still having room for the pogo board. The advantage to AA's being that they are so much easier to replace, the downside being you have to replace them more often.

Because rechargable AA's are 1.2v and have ~1900mAH, six batteries, if wired correctly, could achieve 3.6v and 3800mAH, which I believe beats the normal battery. Of course, doing this results in extra weight and thickness, but it may be worth the trade off.

My only concern with powering a 3ds with this is whether 3.6v is sufficient to power a device recomended for 3.7v. Well, there is at the very least one way to find out.
 
The RA2 smd resistor array is 100 ohm.

Making a new case or "docking" could be possible using a 3D printer... Someone just has to draw the design ;)

its cheaper to just buy some cheap chinese cases or original docking stations, but the 3ds print will be superior and would look much better
 
Just did a little research. If people are willing to have the extra thickness, there is easily enough room to attach six AA's to the back of an xl, while still having room for the pogo board. The advantage to AA's being that they are so much easier to replace, the downside being you have to replace them more often.

Because rechargable AA's are 1.2v and have ~1900mAH, six batteries, if wired correctly, could achieve 3.6v and 3800mAH, which I believe beats the normal battery. Of course, doing this results in extra weight and thickness, but it may be worth the trade off.

My only concern with powering a 3ds with this is whether 3.6v is sufficient to power a device recomended for 3.7v. Well, there is at the very least one way to find out.

dont forget something, there needs to be enough space for a microcontroller and a SD card reader (for restoring nand and backuping)
 
O? I only see |:lol:

It is nothing more than 4 resistors next to each other.
P P P P
| | | |
P P P P
Each color = a different resistor.
 
whoops, I originally put O's instead of |'s, but found they were too big. Then I forgot to change the O to |. :P

So it looks like a relatively easy fix, minus the super-tiny points that are about the size of a dot on an "i". I would pull in a professional, but chances are it would cost as much as a new motherboard.
 
whoops, I originally put O's instead of |'s, but found they were too big. Then I forgot to change the O to |. :P

So it looks like a relatively easy fix, minus the super-tiny points that are about the size of a dot on an "i". I would pull in a professional, but chances are it would cost as much as a new motherboard.


As I said before: use a magnifying glass http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?id=525581
 
You could just use 4 standard 100ohm resister and solder one leg to the existing resistor set and use wires to connect the other leg to the correct point, it will look a bit Frankenstein but should work ok and would be a lot easier than soldering the tiny part back in place
 
Just quickly drew up a rough idea for what a backing would look like, optimally.
RoughIdea.png

I realized that you could also fit a programmed arduino in there, and power it off the 3ds's supply. When needed, you could dump/write, and unbrick from a microSD card easily.
 
Just quickly drew up a rough idea for what a backing would look like, optimally.
RoughIdea.png

I realized that you could also fit a programmed arduino in there, and power it off the 3ds's supply. When needed, you could dump/write, and unbrick from a microSD card easily.

No need for an entire arduino board, just an ATmega and an quartz oscillator, and another device which can be used for dumping the content of the NAND using a normal pc or linux, and a single switch is enough to change between the card reader or the ATmega
 
Good point. the ability to dump, write, and unbrick with no computer would be amazing but is completely impractical. We would probably just wind up with a little micro SD card you could pull out and plug into any adapter to dump/write.
 
Good point. the ability to dump, write, and unbrick with no computer would be amazing but is completely impractical. We would probably just wind up with a little micro SD card you could pull out and plug into any adapter to dump/write.

why so complicated... take apart an adapter, wire it directly to the nand data lines and add a female microusb at the end of the adapter, then when you want to dump just plug in a micro usb wire into the adapter and plug it into a pc
 
Think about it this way. You could be on a road trip on GW 2.0b2 and suddenly BOOM! 3ds Bricked.

Push two buttons and flip a switch, then continue playing.

However, as I said earlier it is completely impractical to put the necessary hardware to do so in there, so just having an adapter would be far easier (and cheaper!)

Edit: Oh, irony. The day after I break my XL, my 3DS compatible DS flashcart arrives. -_-
 
Think about it this way. You could be on a road trip on GW 2.0b2 and suddenly BOOM! 3ds Bricked.

Push two buttons and flip a switch, then continue playing.

However, as I said earlier it is completely impractical to put the necessary hardware to do so in there, so just having an adapter would be far easier (and cheaper!)

Edit: Oh, irony. The day after I break my XL, my 3DS compatible DS flashcart arrives. -_-


why not just do the locking of locking functionality on the nand so that no gateway bricking is possible ? ( the one gateway firmware 2.0b2 uses ) instead of needing such a device, do that immunization process once and gateway bricks should no longer be possible.
 

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