Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

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How does everyone get their wires soldered so neatly? I was practicing early today on some spare circuitry and the insulation on the wires kept shrinking back exposing more wire than desired, or it seems the solder didn't form a proper bond and the wires came off easily. What would be the best wire to use, stranded or solid? I'm using liquid flux, .032 rosin core 60/40 solder, and a 40 watt radioshack soldering iron.

I've watched a few basic soldering how-to's, and even the one on youtube specific to the 3DS XL (which is what I have) but none have been very detailed about exactly where to apply the tip, they just say "To the joint".

Also, I tried making the SDCard adaptor and found it extremely difficult to do because of the size of the contact points. Do I need a smaller soldering iron tip?
 
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i always just apply a lit of solder to the wire first then trim the excess off to however much i need exposed, get a little bit of solder applied to the pad i want to solder to then you wont have to apply the heat for too long when soldering in place and you should get a nice clean bond and the wire shouldn't get too hot and cause the plastic to melt....its all just practice and technique, im by no means an expert, but when i look back at my old soldering work im like WTF was i doing lol.....still works though :P
 
How does everyone get their wires soldered so neatly? I was practicing early today on some spare circuitry and the insulation on the wires kept shrinking back exposing more wire than desired, or it seems the solder didn't form a proper bond and the wires came off easily. What would be the best wire to use, stranded or solid? I'm using liquid flux, .032 rosin core 60/40 solder, and a 40 watt radioshack soldering iron.

I've watched a few basic soldering how-to's, and even the one on youtube specific to the 3DS XL (which is what I have) but none have been very detailed about exactly where to apply the tip, they just say "To the joint".

Also, I tried making the SDCard adaptor and found it extremely difficult to do because of the size of the contact points. Do I need a smaller soldering iron tip?

use 30 gauge wire, you can find it at radio shack. you can actually find everything you need there. i use their paste rosin flux and the 15watt iron with tip.
 
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How does everyone get their wires soldered so neatly? I was practicing early today on some spare circuitry and the insulation on the wires kept shrinking back exposing more wire than desired, or it seems the solder didn't form a proper bond and the wires came off easily. What would be the best wire to use, stranded or solid? I'm using liquid flux, .032 rosin core 60/40 solder, and a 40 watt radioshack soldering iron.

I've watched a few basic soldering how-to's, and even the one on youtube specific to the 3DS XL (which is what I have) but none have been very detailed about exactly where to apply the tip, they just say "To the joint".

Also, I tried making the SDCard adaptor and found it extremely difficult to do because of the size of the contact points. Do I need a smaller soldering iron tip?


Practice makes perfect, but a 40 watt iron is a bit much. I agree a 15 watt iron with a small tip is best. You don't want to burn the pads off the board.
 
Abcdfv, 40W :blink: man u wanna melt the copper too? don't take that thing anywhere near a 3ds... I use a 11W iron with a 0.5mm curved tip, and even that sometimes i'm afraid it can lift up a copper trace or burn a component lol And before soldering anything, 1st flux and tin both the surface and tip of the wire u want to solder, even cut off the end of the wire if it's too long, u won't get any plastic melting at all.
 
has anyone tried flashing back a gateway-made (from the loader) NAND backup through a hardware mod?

or it has "gateway magic" so it won't work?
 
has anyone tried flashing back a gateway-made (from the loader) NAND backup through a hardware mod?

or it has "gateway magic" so it won't work?

Someone on this forum tried it and worked, so its posible. I am too lazy to search the thread right now :unsure:
 
it's possible to flash it, but profi200 said it wouldn't work after a full eMMC erase because GW team re-encrypt the dump.
So, I guess it's working only if you don't have a GW brick.
Or maybe someone will have to test it when they will have a working unbricked 3DS.

Someone tested to write GW dump to real hardware, then update realNAND from nintendo's server?
I don't remember if it was tested. I'll have to read the threads again.
 
Yay! Just finished my solderless 3DS XL flash kit :grog:
Ordered a White 3DS XL yesterday from amazon.de. Version 4.4 !

I desoldered 4 pogo pins from an old xecuter modchip.

t0g2.jpg

This is my board layout... ugly but works :D

I have not yet made pics of the final board because it is currently in use and I don't want to change a running system :P

tvj.png

I marked the spots in red where I put my pogo pins.

The flasher leaves NO TRACE ;)

I'm ready for the Gateway reviews!
Hopefully the Gateway exploits can be modified for use with the internal SD in the near future...

I followed the community for a long time, but never registered... First post. Hope you like it :)


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whats the step size (distance between the holes) ? 2,54 mm ?
 
Abcdfv, 40W :blink: man u wanna melt the copper too? don't take that thing anywhere near a 3ds... I use a 11W iron with a 0.5mm curved tip, and even that sometimes i'm afraid it can lift up a copper trace or burn a component lol And before soldering anything, 1st flux and tin both the surface and tip of the wire u want to solder, even cut off the end of the wire if it's too long, u won't get any plastic melting at all.

This is why I practiced and asked, ok so less is more in thihs case. I'll exchange the iron for a lesser wattage and smaller tip
 
I just screwed up my system when trying this, not enough experience I guess. I accedentally destroyed the small chip next to DAT0, now 3ds will not boot.

Repair is impossible, the chip is destroyed. What now?

Is there any bypass for this, workaround, etc? Or should I just cut my losses and sell the broken system?
 
Try get a replacement motherboard, I'm not sure what that component is, but a repair looks like it would need an experts touch if at all possible, the points would be too small for even a hobbiest solderer,

You could sell it on ebay as faulty, but I think the buyer might be pissed off if you don't describe the damage in the listing....or you could sell the screens for replacement screens if you just want to buy a whole new system

And just for future reference never apply force with the soldering iron, it one slip and whatever your working on is fucked
 
I just screwed up my system when trying this, not enough experience I guess. I accedentally destroyed the small chip next to DAT0, now 3ds will not boot.

Repair is impossible, the chip is destroyed. What now?

Is there any bypass for this, workaround, etc? Or should I just cut my losses and sell the broken system?
Do you mean RA2? That is a resistor pack, it is a very cheap part.
 
Do you mean RA2? That is a resistor pack, it is a very cheap part.
It was extremely small. Even if I could get another one, I don't think I would be able to reattach it. Is there some good method of doing so, other than EXTREME precision soldering?
 
It was extremely small. Even if I could get another one, I don't think I would be able to reattach it. Is there some good method of doing so, other than EXTREME precision soldering?


buy a light equiped magnifying glass for soldering, velleman has a cheap one with 3x and 12x zoom and light, 40 to 50 euro, around 60 dollar or so.
 
Looks like a good tutorial, but I don't know where to get the resistor. It looks like I'm going to be getting a replacement motherboard.

Next time I try this, Ill probably just get a good pogo pin board. :)

Thanks for the tips anyway!
 

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