How do I fix the bga?

[twerp48]

I destroyed it with a soldering wick

 

[LangdonL]

It doesn't seem repairable...

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

This requires next-level ninja courage, a steady hand and a good microscope.

Upside is that most of the pads weren't even connected to anything so that is why you probably wiped them off the board.
And all control lines are also elsewhere on the board.
So your only problem is DAT0.

Only 12 pins are actual data/control lines and there are 3 voltage lines.
https://switchbrew.org/wiki/EMMC_pinout

Most of the pins are either not connected, ground or 3.3/1.8v lines.
You could consider only connecting the DAT0 and
run the Switch in 1bit mode if you install a Picofly (because then you only need the emmc in 1 bit mode for booting).
Any Switch will work fine in 1bit mode, except 8 times as slow.
Then you're down to 5 pads + 3 voltage lines you need to repair.
You need to connect those 8 wires to your existing emmc like thiss

The CMD/CLK/RST lines are also available on other points of the board. Just look at the installation of a picofly.
DAT0 can either be obtained from the pad of the emmc or you need to do a kamikaze mod to expose that DAT0.
The 1.8v/3.3v and ground are available on multiple points on the board.

Another option is to sell the Switch for parts on a site like eBay and cut your losses.

 

[twerp48]

This requires next-level ninja courage, a steady hand and a good microscope.

Upside is that most of the pads weren't even connected to anything so that is why you probably wiped them off the board.
And all control lines are also elsewhere on the board.
So your only problem is DAT0.

View attachment 499912

Only 12 pins are actual data/control lines and there are 3 voltage lines.
https://switchbrew.org/wiki/EMMC_pinout

Most of the pins are either not connected, ground or 3.3/1.8v lines.
You could consider only connecting the DAT0 and
run the Switch in 1bit mode if you install a Picofly (because then you only need the emmc in 1 bit mode for booting).
Any Switch will work fine in 1bit mode, except 8 times as slow.
Then you're down to 5 pads + 3 voltage lines you need to repair.
You need to connect those 8 wires to your existing emmc like thiss


View attachment 499908

The CMD/CLK/RST lines are also available on other points of the board. Just look at the installation of a picofly.
DAT0 can either be obtained from the pad of the emmc or you need to do a kamikaze mod to expose that DAT0.
The 1.8v/3.3v and ground are available on multiple points on the board.

Another option is to sell the Switch for parts on a site like eBay and cut your losses.

Wait so if I only fix the Dot0 the switch will boot ?

 

[slimeinacloak]

DAT0 pad on the board is ripped off, looks like the rest of the pads used by the OLED are intact or at least not completely gone. To fix the dat0 you would either need to do the kamakazi and run a wire around the board to under the nand or to expose enough of the trace and place a wire to repair the pad. All of that assumes the nand wasnt damaged in the removal. Selling it for parts would probably be the best option or sending it to someone who has experience in this type of repair

 

[Krafter]

I may be interested in buying it for parts if posted on eBay and the price is right. I want to try kamikaze but I don't want to try it on a working Switch. If you post it on eBay send me a link.

 

[l7777]

Soooooo let's recap here. You destroyed the CLK point at the SOC, then despite several of us telling you to stop trying to fix this yourself you have pulled the emmc and used solder wick as sandpaper to remove the emmc pads. Is this a troll?

 

[deeps]

this was a rather expensive soldering practice board, wasn't it

 

[twerp48]

this was a rather expensive soldering practice board, wasn't it

no it costed $7

Post automatically merged: Apr 21, 2025

Soooooo let's recap here. You destroyed the CLK point at the SOC, then despite several of us telling you to stop trying to fix this yourself you have pulled the emmc and used solder wick as sandpaper to remove the emmc pads. Is this a troll?

Might as well try to fix it myself it's not gonna fix itself, and geek squad didn't want to try to fix it

 

[l7777]

no it costed $7

Post automatically merged: Apr 21, 2025

Might as well try to fix it myself it's not gonna fix itself, and geek squad didn't want to try to fix it

So this is a learning board that you don't expect to work? I mean theoretically if you were able to reconnect all the emmc pins to their corresponding nets you could fix it yes but that's going to be a lot of work and then you'll also have to secure the emmc somehow.

 

[twerp48]

So this is a learning board that you don't expect to work? I mean theoretically if you were able to reconnect all the emmc pins to their corresponding nets you could fix it yes but that's going to be a lot of work and then you'll also have to secure the emmc somehow.

No I bought the entire working switch for 7 dollars, watched a video for how to install a v2 modchip, thought the process was the same for all models, it looked straightforward, and thought v2 is the same for the oled model, but then realized it was harder but tried anyways and broke the clk, and I couldn't find anyone else to repair it, so I lifted the emmc as a last resort to try to save it

Post automatically merged: Apr 22, 2025

DAT0 pad on the board is ripped off, looks like the rest of the pads used by the OLED are intact or at least not completely gone. To fix the dat0 you would either need to do the kamakazi and run a wire around the board to under the nand or to expose enough of the trace and place a wire to repair the pad. All of that assumes the nand wasnt damaged in the removal. Selling it for parts would probably be the best option or sending it to someone who has experience in this type of repair

So all I've got to do is get the dat0 reconnected and it MIGHT work? Might as well try at this point

Post automatically merged: Apr 22, 2025

Now what I'm thinking of doing is deballing the CPU and directly connecting magnetic wire from the CPU pins to the emmc chip. Because the whole reason I failed this time was because I was basically sanding it with wick. And this time I'll use a laptop board to practice on before moving over to the Switch . So is this theoretically possible? Because I basically have nothing to lose at this point. And I'm sorry if im annoying yalls peaceful forum with all these dumb questions, I should have done more research before buying an oled mod chip

Post automatically merged: Apr 22, 2025

Also are the scratch imprints on the board gonna be a problem? And in the bottom left are those balls still on the board?

 

[l7777]

No I bought the entire working switch for 7 dollars, watched a video for how to install a v2 modchip, thought the process was the same for all models, it looked straightforward, and thought v2 is the same for the oled model, but then realized it was harder but tried anyways and broke the clk, and I couldn't find anyone else to repair it, so I lifted the emmc as a last resort to try to save it

Post automatically merged: Apr 22, 2025

This might sound rude but there is little chance of getting that Switch to work again. You should stop and examine what you've accomplished thus far. A destroyed CLK point. To attempt to fix this, you pulled the EMMC with the intent of running a jumper wire from the CPU trace under the EMMC. But before you could attempt that you wiped out the pads under the EMMC. Now to attempt to fix that damage you're talking about lifting the CPU and running magnet wire to what's left of the EMMC pads and then somehow connecting the EMMC as well. Whether you see it or not you're in a hole. The first step of getting out of the hole is to stop digging. You are full speed ahead driving the backhoe into the hole and continuing to dig.

Someone with a lot of experience would have likely been able to repair the CLK point. Now that you've wiped out the pads under the EMMC even a highly experienced person would have a hard time repairing it. For giggles you should send pictures and description to Alex at Northridge Fix and see if he would even attempt to repair it. My guess is that most professionals would decline the job at this point.

About the only thing that board is good for now is practicing removal and replacement of components or donor components.

So all I've got to do is get the dat0 reconnected and it MIGHT work? Might as well try at this point

Post automatically merged: Apr 22, 2025

No, you need all the colored pins above connected to the proper locations, not just dat0.

Now what I'm thinking of doing is deballing the CPU and directly connecting magnetic wire from the CPU pins to the emmc chip. Because the whole reason I failed this time was because I was basically sanding it with wick. And this time I'll use a laptop board to practice on before moving over to the Switch . So is this theoretically possible? Because I basically have nothing to lose at this point. And I'm sorry if im annoying yalls peaceful forum with all these dumb questions, I should have done more research before buying an oled mod chip

Post automatically merged: Apr 22, 2025

Theoretically anything is possible, I put your odds of success as very low though. In reality you're problems are:

1. Broken CLK point at the SOC
2. Damaged pads under the EMMC

To repair you need to :

1. Reconnect the CLK trace from the CPU to the rest of the MB. Your plan was to do this under the EMMC but does this pad even exist there anymore?
2. Reconnect the EMMC to all of its pads/traces.

No annoyance, feel free to keep working on it. As you note you have nothing to lose and you could use it to practice. If you manage to get it going you'll impress a lot of people.

 

[jkyoho]

My guess next post will be how to reball eMMC/CPU without stencil

 

[twerp48]

So just to confirm, these are the ones I need to reconnect? And then all the other nc broken ones I need to fill with solder mask?

 

[l7777]

theoretically that should do it.