https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-481#post-10179786ok ill give it a try with a single mosfet. can you post a pic of your single mosfet install?
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-481#post-10179786ok ill give it a try with a single mosfet. can you post a pic of your single mosfet install?
link?In aliexpress they already sold it again. I have checked it and its correct 47 ohms. So they revised it all last week
thank you. do you think its worth the price tag of almost $10 each?
Wow, thank you so much for the information! Wondering if anyone else might happen to know what the last resistor (capacitor?)'s value is (referring to my original post's image)? I'll definitely place the order and give it a try as soon as I figure that outyou are missing capacitors. I'll see if I can get the values in the meantime
Edit: @CrispyYoshi
I updated the values (still missing one)
do you do a single mosfet on all installs?
no sometimes i use flex cable.do you do a single mosfet on all installs?
is it random or a specific reason?no sometimes i use flex cable.
Random, because someone told me to test some flex cable.is it random or a specific reason?
ok I added the 2 cables (sda to pin 12 and scl to pin 13) but I still get (after a long-ish blue blue on-dim sequence) the three yellow lights code:Add SCL/SDA wires to lower the glitch requierements so single cap connection could work
Only the SP2 Bold cable can be installedhey all! I've got a problem with my second picofly installation on a mariko (v2).
I've done one very successfully.
one of the drain wires of the mosfet to the furthest capacitor beside the nividia chip detached and took the capacitor's pad with it! (yeah... ripped pad).
As you can see in the picture I attached, only the capacitor's ground pad remains, and I've carefully scraped all around the ripped pad to find a possible continuation of that ripped pad. Turns out there is ground all around this pad (checked with dmm)
I tried soldering the wire to the capacitor's ground pad but I get two long yellow flashes and one short yellow flash (==*) which means check mosfet I've read.
My question is, what can I do now? Is there any alternative solder point for one of the mosfets' drain?
oh alright. i just started doing it as a side hustle. i do console repairs as well. not on a professional level though. still new within the last 2 years.Random, because someone told me to test some flex cable.
I always choose the lowest cost
I am not professional modder. Just some hack hobbyst. So lot the thing i experiment is on my own device. Some device i sold, but its not like as fast as possible. but just for fun. Every device i worked on, not based on somekind of time target. But more like, i have an idea, and want to apply it. Something like that. Until now only 5 device i modded. All single mosfet and flex. Never do dual mosfet.
Warning about those.
You mean you just went back to the regular rp2040-zero?Warning about those.
I was getting really weird error codes flashing (Like *== which isn't even one) and it would constantly change. The ribbon cable is hard to connect because it doesn't make a good enough connection and when you move you can easily disconnect it. Honestly I probably failed flashing it when I moved.
I replaced just the modchip and it all went away.
I don't really understand (I tried googling sp2 bold cable)Only the SP2 Bold cable can be installed
Can improve unilateral BOOT speed
Yes and the issues went away. Again i am pretty sure it was just flashed incorrectly due to the ribbon cable not making a solid enough connectionYou mean you just went back to the regular rp2040-zero?
First I've heard of it? I think "usually" might be overselling it?Guys do you know the logical explanation why lite/v1/v2 lcd usually break after 4-5 years? While handphone lcd seems work for eternity.
Just try to press reset button on the rp2040 when joycon logo shows. Or use SDA and SCL wires.I don't really understand (I tried googling sp2 bold cable)
I disconnected and reconnected the battery and now I get:
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
Nice!!!...Thinking about doing this, on my switch lite.Guys what are tour opinión abouth this install View attachment 376963
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