Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

CrispyYoshi

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you are missing capacitors. I'll see if I can get the values in the meantime
Edit: @CrispyYoshi
I updated the values (still missing one)
Wow, thank you so much for the information! Wondering if anyone else might happen to know what the last resistor (capacitor?)'s value is (referring to my original post's image)? I'll definitely place the order and give it a try as soon as I figure that out
 

abal1000x

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is it random or a specific reason?
Random, because someone told me to test some flex cable.
I always choose the lowest cost :rofl:

I am not professional modder. Just some hack hobbyst. So lot the thing i experiment is on my own device. Some device i sold, but its not like as fast as possible. but just for fun. Every device i worked on, not based on somekind of time target. But more like, i have an idea, and want to apply it. Something like that. Until now only 5 device i modded. All single mosfet and flex. Never do dual mosfet.
 

provato

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Add SCL/SDA wires to lower the glitch requierements so single cap connection could work
ok I added the 2 cables (sda to pin 12 and scl to pin 13) but I still get (after a long-ish blue blue on-dim sequence) the three yellow lights code:
=** eMMC init failure during glitch process
Any ideas what might be wrong?
 

POPOLO

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hey all! I've got a problem with my second picofly installation on a mariko (v2).
I've done one very successfully.
one of the drain wires of the mosfet to the furthest capacitor beside the nividia chip detached and took the capacitor's pad with it! (yeah... ripped pad).
As you can see in the picture I attached, only the capacitor's ground pad remains, and I've carefully scraped all around the ripped pad to find a possible continuation of that ripped pad. Turns out there is ground all around this pad (checked with dmm)

I tried soldering the wire to the capacitor's ground pad but I get two long yellow flashes and one short yellow flash (==*) which means check mosfet I've read.

My question is, what can I do now? Is there any alternative solder point for one of the mosfets' drain?
Only the SP2 Bold cable can be installed
Can improve unilateral BOOT speed
 

Attachments

  • S cable D cable Not bold.mp4
    1.6 MB
  • Bold cable on one side.mp4
    2.2 MB

BlueBeans

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Random, because someone told me to test some flex cable.
I always choose the lowest cost :rofl:

I am not professional modder. Just some hack hobbyst. So lot the thing i experiment is on my own device. Some device i sold, but its not like as fast as possible. but just for fun. Every device i worked on, not based on somekind of time target. But more like, i have an idea, and want to apply it. Something like that. Until now only 5 device i modded. All single mosfet and flex. Never do dual mosfet.
oh alright. i just started doing it as a side hustle. i do console repairs as well. not on a professional level though. still new within the last 2 years.

What size wire are you using for single mosfet?
 

BoomBoomShroom

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Warning about those.

I was getting really weird error codes flashing (Like *== which isn't even one) and it would constantly change. The ribbon cable is hard to connect because it doesn't make a good enough connection and when you move you can easily disconnect it. Honestly I probably failed flashing it when I moved.

I replaced just the modchip and it all went away.
 

BlueBeans

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Warning about those.

I was getting really weird error codes flashing (Like *== which isn't even one) and it would constantly change. The ribbon cable is hard to connect because it doesn't make a good enough connection and when you move you can easily disconnect it. Honestly I probably failed flashing it when I moved.

I replaced just the modchip and it all went away.
You mean you just went back to the regular rp2040-zero?
 

provato

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Only the SP2 Bold cable can be installed
Can improve unilateral BOOT speed
I don't really understand (I tried googling sp2 bold cable)
I disconnected and reconnected the battery and now I get:
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
 

bilalhassan341

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I don't really understand (I tried googling sp2 bold cable)
I disconnected and reconnected the battery and now I get:
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
Just try to press reset button on the rp2040 when joycon logo shows. Or use SDA and SCL wires.

Edit: I fixed two switches with this issue by placing SDA and SCL wire.
 

provato

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...and now I start panicking... :(
I removed the picofly completely and the switch is dead! I tried the 20 seconds then short press power button (or 5 sec press) but it is still in black screen..
Any ideas what I can do to bring it back to life? Or is it completely dead and I should leave it?
 

AceCuba

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Guys what are tour opinión abouth this install
1686338864175.jpg


Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 8 mediante Tapatalk
 

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