Let me know how your install goes. The switch lite has been giving me a hell of a time.Switch Lite points are tiny as hell compared to V2 or V1.
Edit: Just figured out that SDA and SCL are on the other side of this board.
Let me know how your install goes. The switch lite has been giving me a hell of a time.Switch Lite points are tiny as hell compared to V2 or V1.
Edit: Just figured out that SDA and SCL are on the other side of this board.
Lite perfectly fit if you place the pico on top of the emmc.Let me know how your install goes. The switch lite has been giving me a hell of a time.
I have installed total 4 picofly's on v2, each of them boot into no sd on first try. I usually install picofly on v2 on avg 50min. But on this one I can tell for sure it is going to take a day or two.Let me know how your install goes. The switch lite has been giving me a hell of a time.
I'm going to follow a og method (Metal Shield cut). So, I can enjoy a blue light in the dark. Like a rgb vibes, just b .Lite perfectly fit if you place the pico on top of the emmc.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-415#post-10167696
Yeah, I've done about the same in terms of V2 and I did them with the mosfet. Booted the first time every time. I finally do a lite with the cable which I thought would be easy and its given me a run for my moneyI have installed total 4 picofly's on v2, each of them boot into no sd on first try. I usually install picofly on v2 on avg 50min. But on this one I can tell for sure it is going to take a day or two.
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I'm going to follow a og method (Metal Shield cut). So, I can enjoy a blue light in the dark. Like a rgb vibes, just b .
I didn't even think about cutting the shield guess it's good i saw that before putting everything together. What do you do for the V2/V1? do you cut the shield there as well?I have installed total 4 picofly's on v2, each of them boot into no sd on first try. I usually install picofly on v2 on avg 50min. But on this one I can tell for sure it is going to take a day or two.
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I'm going to follow a og method (Metal Shield cut). So, I can enjoy a blue light in the dark. Like a rgb vibes, just b .
Do you have pictures of installation?Hi,
I am getting screen flickering, slow performance and black lines when I boot to the CFW or OFW on a switch oled. Overall its glitchy and slow, but works fine in Hekate.
I installed the picofly and when I was installing it I noticed that, with the multimeter in Diode Mode, I was getting ~0.355v from the CPU. I am using a V2 ribbon cable from the Hwfly modchip. Could this be the issue?
I always cut the shield incase if there is error, or yellow light. With the shield cut I can see blue from the vent clearly. Btw it depend on you which method you want to follow. Before opening the switch shield I can tell that emmc is the best place by looking at the metal shield.Yeah, I've done about the same in terms of V2 and I did them with the mosfet. Booted the first time every time. I finally do a lite with the cable which I thought would be easy and its given me a run for my money
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I didn't even think about cutting the shield guess it's good i saw that before putting everything together. What do you do for the V2/V1? do you cut the shield there as well?
Sorry for double posting.Do you have pictures of installation?
I had a similar issue with an oled (but with hwfly).Sorry for double posting.
I don't sadly and I am at work. I was just wondering what I should be checking.
This is my 7th installation and this never occurred. I can post pictures later in the day
Basically you only need one. Those two cap are connected one to another.hey all! I've got a problem with my second picofly installation on a mariko (v2).
I've done one very successfully.
one of the drain wires of the mosfet to the furthest capacitor beside the nividia chip detached and took the capacitor's pad with it! (yeah... ripped pad).
As you can see in the picture I attached, only the capacitor's ground pad remains, and I've carefully scraped all around the ripped pad to find a possible continuation of that ripped pad. Turns out there is ground all around this pad (checked with dmm)
I tried soldering the wire to the capacitor's ground pad but I get two long yellow flashes and one short yellow flash (==*) which means check mosfet I've read.
My question is, what can I do now? Is there any alternative solder point for one of the mosfets' drain?
Do you think that a single mosfet if more effective than the cable or a double mosfet?Basically you only need one. Those two cap are connected one to another.
There still capacitor on the right. The problem is you need a bigger cable, since there will be high current flows in there. I make a U-Turn to make it twice the current could flows.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10179786
Add SCL/SDA wires to lower the glitch requierements so single cap connection could workMy question is, what can I do now?
Its not about effective ness. Its about logical think.Do you think that a single mosfet if more effective than the cable or a double mosfet?
where did you get those?!?!I finally got this beauty today and it looks awesome.
Rev 1.1 has 47ohm resistors in place. Just one more week to go until I get the new Zelda Oled and a chance to try this out. Maybe I even build up a courage to do a perm. dat0 until then
now I get =** (=** eMMC init failure during glitch process) and it doesn't even go into OFW (black screen). Have I destroyed the switch?Basically you only need one. Those two cap are connected one to another.
There still capacitor on the right. The problem is you need a bigger cable, since there will be high current flows in there. I make a U-Turn to make it twice the current could flows.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10179786
In aliexpress they already sold it again. I have checked it and its correct 47 ohms. So they revised it all last weekwhere did you get those?!?!
ok ill give it a try with a single mosfet. can you post a pic of your single mosfet install?Its not about effective ness. Its about logical think.
Both cap actually connected. VDD connected to each other and GND connected to each other. Something like this (pardon me for the bad sketch)
View attachment 376943
Basically the mosfet is used as a 'switch' to steal the power that goes to the soc. As long as the mosfet could hold the current flows there, then adding another mosfet to the same point is useless. Its just the same as adding another cable to split the current, so the maximum current flows is twice than before.
IRF8342 could hold 8.5A, i assume its continuous. So if its only short time, it could hold more. If ship happened, then the mosfet will burned. Since it is not, then the mosfet could hold the high current flows to DS.