Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

duke_srg

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Seems not. Still not so clear when or where AESMAC will be used i.e. on which step boot process will fail.
Anyway for now I can see a parts of TWL and CTR partitions in clear text with TWL-IDs. So backing up NAND partition even if you have 7.1 can be helpful in future.
 

Myski

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Any thoughts on what kind of wire to use for hw mod needed to dump?

It's pretty much a choice between 0,48mm multi-threaded wire (~24 AWG I think with 7 smaller threads) or some old IDE data cables I have laying around (most likely 28 AWG single thread) and could strip for this mod.

Does it even matter apart thicker wire being more difficult to solder properly?

Going to use micro usb female - male pair and common micro sd - sd adapter for other parts.

Thanks in advance.
 

enarky

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Any thoughts on what kind of wire to use for hw mod needed to dump?

It's pretty much a choice between 0,48mm multi-threaded wire (~24 AWG I think with 7 smaller threads) or some old IDE data cables I have laying around (most likely 28 AWG single thread) and could strip for this mod.

Does it even matter apart thicker wire being more difficult to solder properly?

Going to use micro usb female - male pair and common micro sd - sd adapter for other parts.

Thanks in advance.
I used 0.04mm^2 cable with an outer diameter of 0.5mm, 5 threads of 0.008mm^2 for the USB mod. Anything else would've been too big for my micro USB connector to solder to, its solder pads are tiny. IDE cables would've definitely been too big and inflexible to fit into the wrist strap opening from the 3DSs inside.
 

Myski

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I used 0.04mm^2 cable with an outer diameter of 0.5mm, 5 threads of 0.008mm^2 for the USB mod. Anything else would've been too big for my micro USB connector to solder to, its solder pads are tiny. IDE cables would've definitely been too big and inflexible to fit into the wrist strap opening from the 3DSs inside.

Ok thanks.. Looks like the multithreaded one is clearly too big for the micro usb. I would like to try it through the wrist strap opening, too, but flexibility or lack of it should not be a problem since I'm willing to use epoxy glue or whatever needed to permanently mount the connector, no need to be easily removable like the hot glue is.

I think I'm still going to try the IDE cable before going to shop for some dedicated wiring (no local stores carry anything close to that and ebay waiting times are calculated in weeks).

Not the whole 40-wire cable of course but 4 separeted strings from it, looks so close to the cables used in other mods. And 28 AWG equals ~0.08mm2, so small I barely see the stripped copper ends.

I actually found some thinner 32 AWG IDE cabling, too, (~0.03m2 single thread) and that looks so ridiculously small I'm sure I couln't even tin it properly with solder iron. Even your 0.04m2 work sounds hardcore.
 

misterb98

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On my mod, I wound up cheating. :P

I bought some micro-usb extension cords and then cut the male end off. After taking most of the rubber off the female end, I mounted it with hot glue on the right side of the case. I then soldered the other end to the nand pinout, hotgluing each connection as I made it, after putting hotglue around the area so I didn't screw up.

Basically, hotglue is my best friend now, and if you aren't good at soldering (like me) you should try it.
 

enarky

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Ok thanks.. Looks like the multithreaded one is clearly too big for the micro usb. I would like to try it through the wrist strap opening, too, but flexibility or lack of it should not be a problem since I'm willing to use epoxy glue or whatever needed to permanently mount the connector, no need to be easily removable like the hot glue is.

I think I'm still going to try the IDE cable before going to shop for some dedicated wiring (no local stores carry anything close to that and ebay waiting times are calculated in weeks).

Not the whole 40-wire cable of course but 4 separeted strings from it, looks so close to the cables used in other mods. And 28 AWG equals ~0.08mm2, so small I barely see the stripped copper ends.

I actually found some thinner 32 AWG IDE cabling, too, (~0.03m2 single thread) and that looks so ridiculously small I'm sure I couln't even tin it properly with solder iron. Even your 0.04m2 work sounds hardcore.
If you're good at soldering it might work, I just feared to make a connection from one solder pad to the other, so the smaller diameter was definitely the easier solution. These are the female connectors I got for the 3DS side, there are probably ones around with better connections, but I haven't found them.

For the other side I also "cheated" and just cut off the male Micro USB side of a cable to solder to a Micro SD card adapter.

usb-microsd.jpg
 

Samo232

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im about to do this mod and im asking just to be sure
i have backup of my 4.4 fw that i did using my gateway
can i downgrade from 7.1 back to 4.4?
 

X_Frost

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I apologize in advance if this has been asked before.

Can somebody point me to a recommended member who can perform a NAND backup or Raspberry Pi (Anti-Brick) mod on a regular 3ds (not xl)?

Preferably in the US, if possible.
 

Myski

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OK so I got the wires soldered and got a confirmation that I royally suck at soldering after many years of inactivity.

Used 32 gauge single strand wire from an old floppy drive cable, and personally would not recommed using micro usb connectors to anyone. Nasty, nasty little thing. Joints broke countless times when I tried to fit the female part to the wrist strap opening and twist the wires into the slot (got warned, had to try anyway).

And yes, I did use hotglue to hold them, didn't turn out to be so hot idea after all - you know what is worse than a broken micro-sized solder joint? A broken micro-sized solder joint inside a blob of dried hot glue... Had to be the lowest moment of the whole project, getting that little connector all glued up down into the corner slot, checking every wire with multimeter, then covering the whole thing with glue, letting it dry and THEN finding out one of the wires didn't glue so well and got separated when twisting the wire towards the PCB end. Well, de-gluing we went and got lucky that it was the last pad in the row that got separated, so it was actually doable to solder it back right there in the slot without removing all the glue around it, just a little hole to dig up that single solder pad. Possibly the ugliest solder joint ever known to man but it's a closed circuit alright.

Now to the software thingy part...
 

Myski

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I think I need some help now.

I did the wiring, etc. and am ready to read nand. But I keep getting the following bootrom error:


CMD is connected to CLK. (Other DAT lines may be connected to this aswell, no way to tell)
Code:
00F800FE
00000000 00000000
00000400 00000000

The weird thing is I have checked every single circuit from PCB via usb to SD adapter with multimeter (continuity) and they are all good. Nothing touching each other and no cold joints.

The first time I tried booting the 3ds for nand reading I got this very same error and that time there really was one short-circuit (GND connected with CLK, found it with multimeter), but I have since reworked those joints and there are NO short circuits anymore, triple-checked with multimeter.

Now I'm confused.
 

gamesquest1

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Have you tried to dump the NAND? you can get that error on a valid setup, the codes can vary from reader to reader (possible down to gown long it takes to initialise the NAND)
 

Myski

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Thanks for the reply.

No, the SD reader doesn't recognice my setup at all, and windiskimager32 can't find anything to read, either.

Can this be caused by incompatible SD card reader? Cause I haven't tested this reader with 3ds dumps before, so can't say it's a working device for sure. It's an old HP laptop with built-in texas instruments smart card reader if that does matter.

To sum up, the 3ds boots normally to main menu with the SD adapter part disconnected (suppose that's ok), and gets that one bootrom error mentioned above when it's booted when connected to a card reader, and computer doesn't recognize anything in the card reader slot. And I'm pretty sure the wiring is correct now, continuity tests pass, used exactly the same pin layout as mentioned earlier in this thread etc.

E: Used this sd card layout (the actual photo, not the drawing), with the DAT0 at pin #7, CND#6, CLK #5, CMD #3

Do you see something obviously wrong with this? I was a bit confused with the CMD wire, cause it looks to me it's different here in the drawing and the photo..?

Can provide an image of my PCB layout, too, if needed. Usb pin order doesn't matter as long as the PCB and SD ends are correct, I suppose.

mmc_adapter-jpg.3627

E: I have it like this.
c7qv.jpg
 

gamesquest1

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Test on another card reader if you can, there was a list of compatible card readers somewhere in this tread....but I used one build in my laptop (which was a little bit funny)and a el cheapo card reader I got from the pound shop works perfectly though.....most should at least show up but in the case of my laptop reader it was a bit hit 'n' miss and would occasionally disconnect after a split second but once it showed up it worked fine.....then again my card reader in the laptop is a ill bit crappy anyway
 

Myski

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Yes, definitely think it's the reader, or something completely unrelated.

Because I rewired the whole thing once more, and used different connector this time that use much bigger solder pads, (no more micro usbs for me, ever), and same result. Absolutely no bad connections.

Got to find myself an array of sd readers tomorrow...
 

Myski

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They are about 17cm (7 inches) total, from pcb to sd card, connector about halfway down.

Resistance about 2 ohms from end to end.

Should be ok?
 

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