Hardware N3DS NAND backup possible, I hope.

urherenow

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It should be impossible to brick when you're hard modded. Worst case scenario, you'd need a raspberry Pi to unlock the NAND, if you managed to lock it. But flashing the NAND is writing raw data that will override the exfat or fat32 or whatever it is that you applied...
 

cearp

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It should be impossible to brick when you're hard modded. Worst case scenario, you'd need a raspberry Pi to unlock the NAND, if you managed to lock it. But flashing the NAND is writing raw data that will override the exfat or fat32 or whatever it is that you applied...
i think i read, when all of the bricking and unbricking was happening, that gw could have locked it in a way that would have been unable to be fixed :)
but, for some reason, they did not do it that way (thankfully)
 
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mvmiranda

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i think i read, when all of the bricking and unbricking was happening, that gw could have locked it in a way that would have been unable to be fixed :)
but, for some reason, they did not do it that way (thankfully)

Right!
I read bkifft saying (pardon and correct me if I'm mistaken or talking BS here) they have done it wrong because they didn't know how o do, or they screwed up when doing it. :)
 
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bkifft

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Right!
I read bkifft saying (pardon and correct me if I'm mistaken or talking BS here) they have done it wrong because they didn't know how o do, or they screwed up when doing it. :)

You've summoned me thus I shall reply ;)

The "done it wrong" part was from my source who gave me the keystring. But yes: there would have been a way easier way to destroy the NAND with one single operation.
All MMC and SD devices have a write once bit (once set it can't be reset) that toggles read only mode, which would have turned the affected 3DS main boards into modern art.
But as long as one doesn't write to a specific register it's nearly impossible (ballpark estimation: same chance as getting struck by a meteorite the exact second you won the jackpot at 10 slot machines at the same time) to happen on accident (checksums are great).
Would be easy to write homebrew malware that does it on purpose though, and GW would have been able to go this route if they'd wanted (they clearly have read the MMC spec), but luckily they didn't.

Think I know what I'll be doing when the next super hyped game gets announced...


tl;dr: possible to get irrecoverable brick via software on 3DS, luckily GW weren't dicks of that magnitude.
 
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mvmiranda

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You've summoned me thus I shall reply ;)

The "done it wrong" part was from my source who gave me the keystring. But yes: there would have been a way easier way to destroy the NAND with one single operation.
All MMC and SD devices have a write once bit (once set it can't be reset) that toggles read only mode, which would have turned the affected 3DS main boards into modern art.
But as long as one doesn't write to a specific register it's nearly impossible (ballpark estimation: same chance as getting struck by a meteorite the exact second you won the jackpot at 10 slot machines at the same time) to happen on accident (checksums are great).
Would be easy to write homebrew malware that does it on purpose though, and GW would have been able to go this route if they'd wanted (they clearly have read the MMC spec), but luckily they didn't.

Think I know what I'll be doing when the next super hyped game gets announced...


tl;dr: possible to get irrecoverable brick via software on 3DS, luckily GW weren't dicks of that magnitude.

Thou shalt go to your place of rest for the one who have summoned you needs not your help anymore, oh great wise :)
 
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milerwan

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Here is my work on New 3DS/3DS XL consoles. :)

N3DS_installation_micro_usb_nand_connector_big.jpg



I used an Adafruit USB Micro-B Breakout that I have adapted for each model : http://www.infinitydream.com/adafruit-usb-microb-breakout-board-p-1150.html


This diagram is for New 3DS XL model which is the most complex to cut :

adafruit_usb_micro_b_breakout_modified_big.jpg




* New 3DS XL installation * below :





* New 3DS installation * below :




Thanks for all members who have contributed to this post ! ^^
 

mvmiranda

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milerwan

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Thank you.

For New 3DS XL, micro USB PCB must be glued with "Cyanoacrylat" glue (strong glue) because no adhesive thickness needed.
For New 3DS, micro USB PCB must be glued with hot glue in the hole to fill the space below.

About "Adafruit USB Micro-B Breakout", I have ordered from the manufacturer in the USA because no European dealer got it...

I advise you to use an electronic caliper to postpone measures when you must cut the back shell.
 

mvmiranda

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Thank you.

For New 3DS XL, micro USB PCB must be glued with "Cyanoacrylat" glue (strong glue) because no adhesive thickness needed.
For New 3DS, micro USB PCB must be glued with hot glue in the hole to fill the space below.

About "Adafruit USB Micro-B Breakout", I have ordered from the manufacturer in the USA because no European dealer got it...

I advise you to use an electronic caliper to postpone measures when you must cut the back shell.

Nice!
I'll see if I can get one of these as well...
I'm doing a "hidden" installation, under the battery cover thing... I had a "not so good" experience with these micro USB installations for customers (although I do it for myself).
I did this O3DS XL micro USD install and the customer's kid plugged a USB charger in it... ouch :P
 

urherenow

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milerwan that is so cool! But if it actually works, it's only because you are using a breakout board. It's been verified by at least 3 people (unfortunately, I was one of them) that using the power connector for the ground causes serious issues (take a look at the first post in the thread again. It was updated). Other than that... I'm kind of jealous :).
 

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So I managed to finish the mod, and get into the blue screen. So happy I didnt short my console!

Only problem is that I cant find the 3DS as a drive letter on my PC. I think my soldering is all fine as everything's working as it should, so Im guessing its the card reader (A Belkin universal media reader), would this be the most likely scenario?

http://puu.sh/hFZUD/c3a6006692.jpg
 

milerwan

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milerwan that is so cool! But if it actually works, it's only because you are using a breakout board. It's been verified by at least 3 people (unfortunately, I was one of them) that using the power connector for the ground causes serious issues (take a look at the first post in the thread again. It was updated). Other than that... I'm kind of jealous :).

Yes you're right, this GND point is not good. I have changed it and it works.
I have found a nice located GND dot placed right next !!! ;)

I will updated all the pictures with the new GND point.

EDIT : Pictures updated + signature updated for installation tutorials :)
 

EmceeKerser

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How do you actually test continuity from the NAND to the SD card adapter, do each pinout, like CMD CLK GRND and DAT0 give a specific voltage with a multi meter? How do i actually tell its not touching or if the circuitry is good?

Also, if im booting into the blue screen can there possibly be an error with my circuitry?
 

urherenow

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How do you actually test continuity from the NAND to the SD card adapter, do each pinout, like CMD CLK GRND and DAT0 give a specific voltage with a multi meter? How do i actually tell its not touching or if the circuitry is good?

Also, if im booting into the blue screen can there possibly be an error with my circuitry?
There is a problem if you're booting to blue screen without an SD card adapter plugged in... If it's only when an SD adapter is hooked up, that's what it's supposed to do.

You test continuity by checking resistance. Set your meter to the ohms signal. 0L or 0.0L means there is no connection at all. 0.0 <ohm sign> is a good connection. 0.2+ and There may be a problem or a cold joint... You need to check for shorts the same way (hook up your SD adapter and check continuity between pins. There are only 2 pins that should have continuity with each other)
 
D

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Hey,
Just got my New 3DS back from InfinityDream (good job !)

I'm using a Anker as recommanded, no issue dumping the Nand, but before starting to play with it I have one question : I tried to dump 2 times and got different ERRCODE. Once it was 00000400, and the second one was 00000002 (3rd series of number, the others are all 00000000) is it normal ? I was expecting 00000200.

TKS

Edit : The 2 Dump seems identical, so I guess it's OK...
 

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