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not sure if this was ever established, i seem to remember reading a suggestion for what manufacturer the 1.8gb emmc is but i dont think it was ever confirmed, just figured it would be good to put it to bed so we can finally call each of them by the correct name, basicaly its a toshiba emmc chipCurious, does anyone recognize that memory manufacture logo stamp? I do not keep up with those only MCUs and SoCs unfortunately, and major ones at that lol.
http://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/eu/company/news/2015/03/memory-20150324-1.html
toshiba seem to be using that logo for *some* of their emmc products (seen on the official toshiba site favicon), and the product code is very similar to those in that link THGBWBG4P1KBAIT in the 3DS vs their newer model of THGBMHG7C2LBAIL
so yeah i think its safe to say now the 1.2GB is Samsung and 1.8GB is Toshiba
not sure if this was ever established, i seem to remember reading a suggestion for what manufacturer the 1.8gb emmc is but i dont think it was ever confirmed, just figured it would be good to put it to bed so we can finally call each of them by the correct name, basicaly its a toshiba emmc chip
http://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/eu/company/news/2015/03/memory-20150324-1.html
toshiba seem to be using that logo for *some* of their emmc products (seen on the official toshiba site favicon), and the product code is very similar to those in that link THGBWBG4P1KBAIT in the 3DS vs their newer model of THGBMHG7C2LBAIL
so yeah i think its safe to say now the 1.2GB is Samsung and 1.8GB is Toshiba
Fingers crossed my "new" new3ds (yes i have another one on the way after the mishap the other day, see a few posts up on last page) has the 1.2gb nand instead of the 1.8gb this one has lol
No luck finding a replacement power switch yet
you could probably fix that up and solder 2 thin wires from the connector directly to the button, yeah a replacement would be better, but until replacement parts crop up it should be perfectly fine doing thatFingers crossed my "new" new3ds (yes i have another one on the way after the mishap the other day, see a few posts up on last page) has the 1.2gb nand instead of the 1.8gb this one has lol
No luck finding a replacement power switch yet
Yeah I've thought about various ways to fix it but those wires are beyond crazy thin and so are the points on the connector on the main board, highly doubt anyone human could solder something that small by hand lol and I'm pretty good with a soldering iron.
And seeing as i system transferred from my old3ds emunand which i made a backup of before doing the transfer, trying to figure out how to get it back to what it was there. I'm guessing i can just restore said backup and format the other system to unlink the nnid and i should be good right?
well you could probably follow the trace for the power button and hopefully find a pad to solder to, but idk if your replacing it anyway i dont suppose it really matters
Yeah I'll probably poke around and see if i can find something bigger to connect to and hopefully rig something up.
As for the other thing, i should be back up and running like it was before by restoring my emunand/sd card backup and formatting the n3ds to remove nnid shouldn't i?
So yeah everything seems to have worked as intended with the emunand/sd card backup restore except for the nnid which seems to be still linked to the n3ds for some reason even though i formatted it like 3 times. haha
I even went a step further and removed it from the emunand backup doing this https://gbatemp.net/threads/poc-3ds-region-changing-proof.378110/page-3#post-5280691 which worked fine, acts like it was never there on the old3ds.
Could it be because there's still a one day cooldown left on system transfer that's locking the nnid out?
I checked after all this on the broken n3ds and it is still linked there because it allowed me to relink it...
Stupid nintendo! Why can't you just have a proper account system like sony or even microshit?
oh yeah the NNID will be linked server side to the console it was last on you would need to do a system transfer to the new console to transfer it to another console, but you cant system transfer from a new3DS to a original 3DSSo yeah everything seems to have worked as intended with the emunand/sd card backup restore except for the nnid which seems to be still linked to the n3ds for some reason even though i formatted it like 3 times. haha
I even went a step further and removed it from the emunand backup doing this https://gbatemp.net/threads/poc-3ds-region-changing-proof.378110/page-3#post-5280691 which worked fine, acts like it was never there on the old3ds.
Could it be because there's still a one day cooldown left on system transfer that's locking the nnid out?
I checked after all this on the broken n3ds and it is still linked there because it allowed me to relink it...
Stupid nintendo! Why can't you just have a proper account system like sony or even microshit?
Man nintendo really like giving people a headache don't they?
Problem solved i guess, transfer to other n3ds when it gets here. And probably just make another one on o3ds.
I have a TS-RDF8K that google says has a Genesys GL3220 controller.
When the 3DS is not recognized/reader isn't compatible how does that typically show? Not sure if it's supposed to just do nothing, or something else.
If I plug it in and turn it on I do get the bootrom screen, but then going to disk management just hangs until I remove the card.
When the 3DS is not recognized/reader isn't compatible how does that typically show? Not sure if it's supposed to just do nothing, or something else.
If I plug it in and turn it on I do get the bootrom screen, but then going to disk management just hangs until I remove the card.
Double check your mod and make sure you wires are short and good, also some food for thought, I have the Transcend TS-RDF5K (USB 3.0) and it uses the GL3233 Product Info, this would not work with the N3DS but it worked with the old one.
The card readers that did not work for me would not read and hang a bit while trying to read the N3DS eMMC until I unplugged the SD card adapter.
I bought a Transcend TS-RDP5K (USB 2.0), and it works on the Toshiba chips in the new 3DS and all older models, but not the Samsung chips in the new 3DS. Then I bought an Anker 68UNMCRD-B2U (USB 3.0), and it works for all the 3DS's models.
I tried to clean up the info on the first post, and...
For working card readers I have had good success with the:
Anker® USB 3.0 and TekRepublic TUC-300 Card Readers (They use the Realtek RTS5306/7 controller)
For working card readers I have had good success with the:
Anker® USB 3.0 and TekRepublic TUC-300 Card Readers (They use the Realtek RTS5306/7 controller)
I finally got it. Soldered the wires to the system and a micro USB port, put hot glue on the port to prevent to wires from coming off the connections and make a hole in the case for it. It's a little tight. The screen's fine unless I put a bit of pressure on the back where the USB port is, where then I'll get little waves on the touchscreen. I'd like to solve that, but I'm not sure quite how. The nXL boots normally and boot errors with 8046 when connected to something.
But now I've had the same issue as many others here. I can't get it recognized on the computer. Win32 Disk Imager won't even let me choose it as a lettered drive. I've tried an Ultra All-In-One card read, two built-into-computer readers for a PC and a netbook and finally a Transcend RDF5K.
I really hope it's card reader issues and not wire issues because I don't want to mess with the system again. I can even live with having to make a new USB-to-SD cable, but not the system. Please almighty universe, hear my pleas! But I don't know how to make sure it's card reader problems and not wiring problems. I checked for most of the connectivity I could while doing the project (tongue+wires+9V battery). The wires in the system are a little over three inches; less than 3 and a half. The USB-SD wires are around 6 in. And I soldered the CMD, CLK, GND and DAT0 wires to the 2, 5, 6 and 7 pins on the SD, in that order. The GND being the one near where the mic plugs in.
Should I try for the USB 2.0 Transcend (RDP5K)? Or should I be saving up for the TekRepublic TUC-300?
But now I've had the same issue as many others here. I can't get it recognized on the computer. Win32 Disk Imager won't even let me choose it as a lettered drive. I've tried an Ultra All-In-One card read, two built-into-computer readers for a PC and a netbook and finally a Transcend RDF5K.
I really hope it's card reader issues and not wire issues because I don't want to mess with the system again. I can even live with having to make a new USB-to-SD cable, but not the system. Please almighty universe, hear my pleas! But I don't know how to make sure it's card reader problems and not wiring problems. I checked for most of the connectivity I could while doing the project (tongue+wires+9V battery). The wires in the system are a little over three inches; less than 3 and a half. The USB-SD wires are around 6 in. And I soldered the CMD, CLK, GND and DAT0 wires to the 2, 5, 6 and 7 pins on the SD, in that order. The GND being the one near where the mic plugs in.
Should I try for the USB 2.0 Transcend (RDP5K)? Or should I be saving up for the TekRepublic TUC-300?
Other then continuity test and even then you can't be sure as it may pass but these are high speed signals, and some interference can affect it, usually it's just peachy though if you've keep your wires short and soldering is done well. I'd recommend the TekRepublic TUC-300 I've tested it against all the 3DS (I can't say for sure they didn't switch controllers or have a firmware change that messes it up), the RDP5K may or may not work depending on the controller, and old one I gave away worked fine but the new ones don't for the N3DS Samsung eMMC. I'd play it safe and go with the TekRepublic TUC-300 or the Anker® USB 3.0 (68UNMCRD-B2U) one a couple post up if you can get your hands on it.
So I'm messing with my other n3ds (the one i accidentally broke the power button cable for) at the moment and I'm wondering if anyone [user]Avalynn[/user] maybe? knows where/if the power button connector on the board comes out to any of the test points at all?
If it does then i can hopefully rig up a makeshift power button until i can find a replacement proper one.
I took a high res pic of the bottom side of the board (not the best, lighting is shit atm). http://i.imgur.com/0eLW3AD.jpg
If it does then i can hopefully rig up a makeshift power button until i can find a replacement proper one.
I took a high res pic of the bottom side of the board (not the best, lighting is shit atm). http://i.imgur.com/0eLW3AD.jpg
