I'll let you know what I find ^^ I have a N3DS I am working on and will check around if that's okay with the owner.
Awesome.
I figured you might have a better chance at maybe finding the points (if there is any, fingers crossed) than me with only my eyes and no other gizmo's to help.
....
In other news.... this particular n3ds seems to hate every card reader i own, including built in readers in my laptops.
All wired up right and i just get nothing, only a blank removable disk (like normally when there's no sd card in the reader) shows up in my computer, disk management etc...
It's the 1.8gb nand which i believe is the Toshiba nand? at least that's what I've read on here, sadly the other n3ds i have (got after this one) is also the 1.8gb nand. /sigh so i guess i no nand mod for that one either.
Can't find any of the readers that seem to work with the n3ds here in aus sadly.
I figured you might have a better chance at maybe finding the points (if there is any, fingers crossed) than me with only my eyes and no other gizmo's to help.
....
In other news.... this particular n3ds seems to hate every card reader i own, including built in readers in my laptops.
All wired up right and i just get nothing, only a blank removable disk (like normally when there's no sd card in the reader) shows up in my computer, disk management etc...
It's the 1.8gb nand which i believe is the Toshiba nand? at least that's what I've read on here, sadly the other n3ds i have (got after this one) is also the 1.8gb nand. /sigh so i guess i no nand mod for that one either.
Can't find any of the readers that seem to work with the n3ds here in aus sadly.
I had the same problem (broke my connector)
Wasn't able to find any traces, even tried to bridge the ribbon to the block but no joy
Nah mine is different. i actually snapped the ribbon cable to the power button in half, not the actual connector on the board like in your pic.
Um... that's your home button connector, not power.
So there's no way to be near 100% sure whether it's a wiring or reader issue? Ah, that sucks. So there's a possibility one can blow through card readers, chocking it up to incompatible controllers ("can't say for sure they didn't switch controllers or have a firmware change that messes it up") when wiring might be the issue.
Which would you say is more reliable between the TUC-300 and Anker? With the Transcend I have now, it won't even show up as a drive. It only comes up when it successfully reads a card.
Found it pretty easily with a multimeter and a couple pictures I took. The test point is marked in the picture and all you have to do is GND the point for a moment and the system will turn on :
Hope this helps
and good luck with your make shift power buttons for now.
Found it pretty easily with a multimeter and a couple pictures I took. The test point is marked in the picture and all you have to do is GND the point for a moment and the system will turn on :
Hope this helps
Excellent! Just what i needed.
A bit of crafty soldering and some 30AWG Kynar wire and i have a working power button again using the original button part.
Now if only i could get this 3ds to like at least one of my card readers.
Here my works, not yet testing because my reader not yet arrived.
Avalynn : The pin out in SD connector is use as standard right even using 4 DAT pin ?
Anyway, thanks for your guide. That help a lot.
Update 1 : Quick check 3D mode not working, Home button not working. Maybe it's just a ribbon issue
Avalynn : The pin out in SD connector is use as standard right even using 4 DAT pin ?
Anyway, thanks for your guide. That help a lot.
Update 1 : Quick check 3D mode not working, Home button not working. Maybe it's just a ribbon issue
Alright so let's talk about those of so fun microUSB mods shall we?
They looks nice, are functional but can fry your 3DS depending how they are hooked up. So let's take a closer look at what's going on and what we can use to stop the frying parts. You never want to let the magic smoke out or the circuit stops working after all!
The 3DS eMMC uses 3.3V logic which are not 5V tolerant and if you plug a standard microUSB cable with the Vcc tied to any of the eMMC pins into the system it will fry the chip. No magic smoke smell but it doesn't work any more and will forever give you the boot error screen.
If we look at a microUSB port there are 5 connection points total. Vcc, D- , D+, ID, GND. So why don't we try and use D- for CMD, D+ for CLK , ID for DAT0 (or in any way you perfer) and GND so there isn't a chance of 5V on the line if it gets hooked up to a normal USB cable to a computer. The Vcc bus is then hooked to the 3DS power in socket so it can be charged through the port.
Well I did just that and tested it with a couple computers, chargers ("smart" and dumb) ones and so far my N3DS is working just fine. Typical USB host expect the Data lines to be 0 V to 0.8 V for a Low level and 2 V to 3.6 V for a High level. This is within the allowed levels of the eMMC pin tolerances, while many eMMC are 1.8v they also 3.3v logic levels. I will note that the computer could not be used to charge it as it tries to negotiate the speed and power of the connection. The charge light just flashes a bunch, the 3DS says it's encountered and error, and the computer says my USB is malfunctioning, disconcerting and rebooting the 3DS results in it booting just fine.
In practice it's simple, but I did some testing before just deciding to hook up the wires sightly differently lol. At first I used a TXB0108 to force the same logic levels when talking back and forward from the eMMC at 3.0V to 3.3V on the other end hooked up to a computer. During this processes I used an oscilloscope to check the voltage level of both the eMMC and the USB data lines making sure that their outputs were not higher then around 3.6V. The logic conversion was just for safety. For further testing I started shorting the data lines together to simulate what some of the charges do according to the USB charging specs and the 3DS system just returns an error.
Let's discuss some safety considerations, first be careful and to allow better charging compatibility; the USB data lines should be disconnected via physical switch or similar. Another note of importance is the distance between the pins on the USBmicro female connector; they are very close together so if the 5v pin is bent a little it could cause an arc and thus send way more then 5v to the adjacent pin. To remedy this the pins should coated or encapsulated in a non-conductive material. In my case I use an acrylic based conformal coating with high viscosity so I know it gets in between everything. Standard USB cables do not have the ID pin in use or even have a wire connected so that should be just fine.
Though better passive and active components could be added to ensure that if a spike of above 3.6V ever does occur on the USB data lines it will safely and quickly dissipated. Here's a couple quick images of it all, nothing impressive.
They looks nice, are functional but can fry your 3DS depending how they are hooked up. So let's take a closer look at what's going on and what we can use to stop the frying parts. You never want to let the magic smoke out or the circuit stops working after all!
The 3DS eMMC uses 3.3V logic which are not 5V tolerant and if you plug a standard microUSB cable with the Vcc tied to any of the eMMC pins into the system it will fry the chip. No magic smoke smell but it doesn't work any more and will forever give you the boot error screen.
If we look at a microUSB port there are 5 connection points total. Vcc, D- , D+, ID, GND. So why don't we try and use D- for CMD, D+ for CLK , ID for DAT0 (or in any way you perfer) and GND so there isn't a chance of 5V on the line if it gets hooked up to a normal USB cable to a computer. The Vcc bus is then hooked to the 3DS power in socket so it can be charged through the port.
Well I did just that and tested it with a couple computers, chargers ("smart" and dumb) ones and so far my N3DS is working just fine. Typical USB host expect the Data lines to be 0 V to 0.8 V for a Low level and 2 V to 3.6 V for a High level. This is within the allowed levels of the eMMC pin tolerances, while many eMMC are 1.8v they also 3.3v logic levels. I will note that the computer could not be used to charge it as it tries to negotiate the speed and power of the connection. The charge light just flashes a bunch, the 3DS says it's encountered and error, and the computer says my USB is malfunctioning, disconcerting and rebooting the 3DS results in it booting just fine.
In practice it's simple, but I did some testing before just deciding to hook up the wires sightly differently lol. At first I used a TXB0108 to force the same logic levels when talking back and forward from the eMMC at 3.0V to 3.3V on the other end hooked up to a computer. During this processes I used an oscilloscope to check the voltage level of both the eMMC and the USB data lines making sure that their outputs were not higher then around 3.6V. The logic conversion was just for safety. For further testing I started shorting the data lines together to simulate what some of the charges do according to the USB charging specs and the 3DS system just returns an error.
Let's discuss some safety considerations, first be careful and to allow better charging compatibility; the USB data lines should be disconnected via physical switch or similar. Another note of importance is the distance between the pins on the USBmicro female connector; they are very close together so if the 5v pin is bent a little it could cause an arc and thus send way more then 5v to the adjacent pin. To remedy this the pins should coated or encapsulated in a non-conductive material. In my case I use an acrylic based conformal coating with high viscosity so I know it gets in between everything. Standard USB cables do not have the ID pin in use or even have a wire connected so that should be just fine.
Though better passive and active components could be added to ensure that if a spike of above 3.6V ever does occur on the USB data lines it will safely and quickly dissipated. Here's a couple quick images of it all, nothing impressive.
I can't find any test points on the same side of the board, so I wonder if it's closer to the CPU directly. Anyways that little diode and resistor connect to the pin of the home button cable, really small to solder to but you can use a really fine wire from that to the flat flex cable.
nothing impressive.
very impressive! i would love this mod
can we see the port on the outside, how neat it looks?
Ah thank youvery impressive! i would love this mod
, the positioning and look is still the same from when I did the integrated card reader back on post #319 here's how that came out.
Here's my job on a New 3DS.
P.S.: sorry for the watermark in all pics, if they're against the rules, I'll remove the pics.
P.S.: sorry for the watermark in all pics, if they're against the rules, I'll remove the pics.
If everything is hooked up correctly, then I say yes, it's the reader that isn't compatible with your eMMC.
I'm going to guess everything is correct - I tested and rewired twice. Went ahead and ordered the suggested one and will cross my fingers as I'd rather not open this thing again.
Finally opened my reader and it is of course the GL3220 so that probably explains the trouble.
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Materia_tofu:
Mario does mushrooms meaning all his adventures was a dream i promise im original+1 -
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SylverReZ:
@Materia_tofu, Mushrooms are an hallucinogenic drug, explains why Mario's adventures are all dreams. -
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Materia_tofu:
if the paper mario universe used dollar bills instead of gold coins realistically you could become rich by putting your local toad in a shredder and painting him green
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