Hacking should I be worried?

[tdlo123]

OK, so I've read about SSBB on some forums, and some people are having trouble with the game.... can someone tell me what to do to avoid these?

1- White screen and green text

2- Wii not recognizing disc

3-DVD9 weakens the lens( is this even real?)

can someone tell me what other problems I could face?

and can I use brickblocker on it? I have 3.2J , does that mean that I don't need the 15% trick or anything?

and do I need to specify the layer break?

please answer

, thanks!

 

[fly_us]

1. Bad burn, try to use better DVD. The best one could be Verbatim made in Singapore DVD+R DL. Burn with ImgBurn at 2.4x or 4x, set the layer break value at 2084960 (in ImgBurn setting). Some mod chip work without layer break, but most of them required it.

2. Same as above, but this case worse. Not only the second layer is bad, but the whole disc. Or it could because of mod chip required Layer break.

3. There is no solid evidence about this one. If Nintendo releases the original in DL disc, then it should not be a problem.

4. Dont use brickblocker, If using 3.2J, then if it ask for update, reject it and load by GeckoOS, that way is much better.

 

[tdlo123]

1. Bad burn, try to use better DVD. The best one could be Verbatim made in Singapore DVD+R DL. Burn with ImgBurn at 2.4x or 4x, set the layer break value at 2084960 (in ImgBurn setting). Some mod chip work without layer break, but most of them required it.

2. Same as above, but this case worse. Not only the second layer is bad, but the whole disc. Or it could because of mod chip required Layer break.

3. There is no solid evidence about this one. If Nintendo releases the original in DL disc, then it should not be a problem.

4. Dont use brickblocker, If using 3.2J, then if it ask for update, reject it and load by GeckoOS, that way is much better.

so it wont work if I DON'T update?? and what's GeckoOS? ^^;

 

[Kokorazashi]

What he's saying is to reject the update by using Gecko OS. It's a homebrew app which lets you play games from other regions without updating. You need the Homebrew Channel or Twilight Hack and an SD card. It's pretty tedious in my opinion. But why do you have a Japanese firmware anyway?

 

[tdlo123]

What he's saying is to reject the update by using Gecko OS. It's a homebrew app which lets you play games from other regions without updating. You need the Homebrew Channel or Twilight Hack and an SD card. It's pretty tedious in my opinion. But why do you have a Japanese firmware anyway?

because I have A jap wii...

 

[DaMummy]

i have a wasabi, and it was a simple burn and play thing for me, no layer break, i used verbatim dl's burned at 2.4x with imgburn

 

[Joey90]

1/2 means that your disc is bad, or you have a underpowered laser (which nintendo will fix for free, but won't like it if you have a drivechip

)

3 is pretty lame

4 You can now change your wii's region to E/U but if you don't want to do that there are lots of programs to remove the update. Obviously you don't want the update as it's the wrong region.

 

[tdlo123]

1/2 means that your disc is bad, or you have a underpowered laser (which nintendo will fix for free, but won't like it if you have a drivechip

)

so there is a chance that the game wont work AT ALL on my wii?

Can I fix it by myself?

 

[Meksilon]

1. Bad burn, try to use better DVD. The best one could be Verbatim made in Singapore DVD+R DL. Burn with ImgBurn at 2.4x or 4x, set the layer break value at 2084960 (in ImgBurn setting). Some mod chip work without layer break, but most of them required it.Always burn DVD+/-R at the fastest speed you can - especially DL discs, and even if it means "overburning". The faster you burn your disc at the better the quality is, the more reliable it is to be read. I'd say 4x is a minimum for DL discs.
QUOTE(tdlo123 @ Sep 12 2008, 06:55 AM) and can I use brickblocker on it? I have 3.2J , does that mean that I don't need the 15% trick or anything?

The 15% trick is very safe, and easy as long as you know what you're doing (ie using a firmware that is SAFE for your Wii and will only add channels at "worst". A better idea, now, is to use bushing's 3.2 update disc - or to use starfall to disable updates. All of these are trivial though as you won't be asked for an update with a 3.2 version firmware installed.

 

[noobwarrior7]

1- White screen and green text
-this is the 001 error I believe, easily patched with a little searching...also, usually you can just eject and put it back in (which is what I do), and geckoOS sometimes remedies this as well, though not consistently

2- Wii not recognizing disc
bad burn/media, or crap chip (which are always factors in a burn)

3-DVD9 weakens the lens( is this even real?)
not true at all, slightly harder to read but does no damage
if your lens is dirty it will struggle,
so you can burn a DVD5 version.

you wont need the update so it shouldnt offer it,
brickblock it anyway

dont burn at the fastest....go with a moderate speed....4x or 8x for dvd5

BOOM done.

have fun

 

[Joey90]

1- White screen and green text
-this is the 001 error I believe, easily patched with a little searching...also, usually you can just eject and put it back in (which is what I do), and geckoOS sometimes remedies this as well, though not consistently

No, the 001 error is if you don't have an update for your wii/modchip and it says 'error #001, unauthorized device detected'

the green text means it can't read the disc and can (often) be solved by ejecting and trying again.

 

[Flawsdraw]

AS others said before but please do not listen to the burn as quick as you can comment that is damn right stupid, the quicker you burn the more mistakes are made becuz the data is being rapidly burnt so easier to skip bits, should really always have around 2.4x on DL

 

[Meksilon]

AS others said before but please do not listen to the burn as quick as you can comment that is damn right stupid, the quicker you burn the more mistakes are made becuz the data is being rapidly burnt so easier to skip bits, should really always have around 2.4x on DL

That's not true, and I've explained why in another post, and there are many, many different benchmark tests to have been performed on the Verbatim 2.4x DL media, burnt at 4x and 2.4x - and I'm yet to see one which showed the faster burn resulted in ANY decrease in quality (4x vs 2.4x). 6x, maybe - I don't know, but probably not. And certainly no "bits" are "skipped" during the burn process! The wisdom you're talking about was true for CD-R, and only true for CD-R.

 

[noobwarrior7]

Always burn DVD+/-R at the fastest speed you can - especially DL discs, and even if it means "overburning". The faster you burn your disc at the better the quality is, the more reliable it is to be read. I'd say 4x is a minimum for DL discs.

QUOTE(Meksilon @ Sep 12 2008, 10:36 PM) That's not true, and I've explained why in another post, and there are many, many different benchmark tests to have been performed on the Verbatim 2.4x DL media, burnt at 4x and 2.4x - and I'm yet to see one which showed the faster burn resulted in ANY decrease in quality (4x vs 2.4x). 6x, maybe

I.....am very well versed in DVD and other digital media theory....I believe that, indeed, you can burn discs quite quickly and depending on
your media, and your drive, etc.....you can get "perfect" burns nonetheless....

However, I would like to see some support of the generalized "Faster is better" claim...
because you're gonna have to do some convincing to say that 24x or 16x burns are as reliable as 8x burns, across the board.
for the majority of burners and media, that is not going to be true.
and this is because of exactly how similar the dvd burning process is to the cd burning process

and....I'd sincerely very much like a link to that other post, I couldn't find it. Thanks!

PS: also, you dont make a good case when you refer to "overburning" as if it has anything to do with speed....because it just does not.
also....DL burn media is just finicky as all get out......just throwing that out there.....whenever I can I avoid it.

 

[Meksilon]

I.....am very well versed in DVD and other digital media theory....I believe that, indeed, you can burn discs quite quickly and depending on
your media, and your drive, etc.....you can get "perfect" burns nonetheless....

However, I would like to see some support of the generalized "Faster is better" claim...
because you're gonna have to do some convincing to say that 24x or 16x burns are as reliable as 8x burns, across the board.No I'm not claiming that a 16x burn is as reliable as an 8x burn - and (for the record) it's not possible to burn ANY DL disc in the world at that speed with any writer, that I'm aware of.

and....I'd sincerely very much like a link to that other post, I couldn't find it. Thanks!

I'll do you one better, and quote it here:

QUOTE(Maktub @ Sep 9 2008, 02:46 AM) I'll stick to 2,4x for this time, no hurries as long as the game works in the end... Gonna try right now!

It's not about rushing the burn, it's about quality. Slow burns heat the disc up too much, and because the disc takes loner to cool the data isn't burnt as well as a good high speed burn. 4x is still an entirely linear burn, so it can't possibly be a worse quality burn. At any rate, the disc is fully rated to be burnt up to 6x; here are links to the official product website (there are only two DVD+R DL Verbatim discs):

MKM 003 - this is the disc that has 8x on the label.

MKM 001 - this is the disc that has 2.4x on the label (or printed on the inside rim of the disc). You'll notice in the product features it says:

• Verbatim DVD+R DL discs burn up to 6X speed with compatible high speed DVD+R DL drives. Saving you about 20 minutes per burn
• 8.5 Gbyte's of storage capacity on a single-sided disc--No need to flip the disc
• Largest compatible DVD back-up and data archiving format for computer drives
• Record 4 hours of DVD quality television and video (16 hours of VHS quality)
• Supported by high speed Double Layer writers, up to 6X, burn 8.5GB in approximately 16 minutes
• Compatible with DVD+R DL drives from Sony, Philips, Lite On and other leading manufacturers
• Ideal for archiving home movies
• Limited Lifetime Warranty

Still, it is me being a bit over-obsessed with quality, cause it may make no real difference to the Wii.

http://gbatemp.net/index.php?showtopic=103...15&start=15

and this is because of exactly how similar the dvd burning process is to the cd burning process

Actually, the burning process is quite different.

PS: also, you dont make a good case when you refer to "overburning" as if it has anything to do with speed....because it just does not.

Overburning when referring to CDs means to "burn more data than the 'rated amount'". It's not possible to write more data than the rated amount on a DVD+/-R/RW, it cannot be done, it's impossible. Overburning when referring to DVD media means "burn the data faster than the disc is officially rated for". Although that is a bit contestable too, considering that the DVD+R DL verbatim media which is rated for 2.4x is officially rated for "up to 6x" speed on the Verbatim website, as seen above.

But to get back to the point you raised earlier, there is a barrier that exists in DVD media burning (and one which never applied to CD-R). And that's the 4x barrier. At 1-4x the disc is burned using CLV. Burning any faster required burning in a different method: CAV. This is why 8x media was "incompatible with slower drives" - the media simply wasn't rated for CLV burning. This is different for DL media, DL media up to 8x speed is burnt using CLV (so, all DL media to my knowledge is burnt using CLV). And it's still true that generally you shouldn't buy media rated for a higher speed than your burner (although with a good quality disc, it may not matter as much anymore).

In the case of the media I use - ie 2.4x Verbatim "MKM 001" DVD+R DL, Verbatim on their website officially state the disc can be burnt up to 6x speed with compatible drives. My drive will only let me burn it at 4x speed (with the patched firmware I use), so that's what I burn at. So when you question 16x speed, it's really not applicable to this specific case because you cannot overburn the disc at that speed, even if you wanted to. I have 4x DVD-R's that can be burnt at that speed, however I feel that 8x performs better.

If a disc is rated for 16x speed, officially, then it should perform better at that speed than any slower speed - that's the theory of DVD burning. Even 20x speed should perform better on a 16x disc than 8x or 4x speed. Notice the word "should". When 16x media was first released, it probably wasn't ready to be rated at that speed, and its real rating probably should have been 12x in most cases, meaning that speed would have been best. But the underlying theory still remains that you should never burn DVD media slower than its rated speed. The Verbatim 2.4x is really rated for "up to 6x speed", and that means you should burn it as close to that speed as possible.

 

[tdlo123]

Oh Right,I forgot to say that I am downloading the USA Version of the game, does that mean that I must use the same layer break?(the one in the second post)

 

[noobwarrior7]

first off....to quote the terminator: "Thank you for explaining."

Overburning when referring to DVD media means "burn the data faster than the disc is officially rated for". Although that is a bit contestable too.....

If a disc is rated for 16x speed, officially, then it should perform better at that speed than any slower speed - that's the theory of DVD burning. Even 20x speed should perform better on a 16x disc than 8x or 4x speed. Notice the word "should". When 16x media was first released, it probably wasn't ready to be rated at that speed, and its real rating probably should have been 12x in most cases, meaning that speed would have been best. But the underlying theory still remains that you should never burn DVD media slower than its rated speed. The Verbatim 2.4x is really rated for "up to 6x speed", and that means you should burn it as close to that speed as possible.

"When referring to DVD"...if this is truly used in such a way, than it was coined by some know-nothing company along the way and caught on, because the term is still used to mean "write extra data to a dvd", because you can still DO that (and I'm not talking about HD-burn or anything similar, mostly because I havent got up to speed on that), so there would be no logical reason to use the same term for two things, EXCEPT possibly that the proportion of a DVD you can overburn onto versus the whole is a much smaller one than proportion of CD vs the whole...so maybe we consider it trivial? I dunno.

Also, unless I missed it somewhere, while you are absolutely right about the speeds of the burning, you are not taking into account the potential fact that not all burners may actually exceed standards, and daresay some might fall below standards after minimal use.
One of the whole reasons we a reach "max" burning speeds is because "wobble" during the process gets to high due to the mass, ect. of the media. Basically what it breaks down to is that at the "max" burning speed of a media standard (not say, if you still had 8x max SL and were burning them at 8x, but actually a disc that was rated as fast as possible and was burnt so) then you are treading a fine line.

But.....I must admit I did not know that performance was supposed to be better at the higher speeds as far as the media is concerned...I was always under the impression that the different speeds had a "uniform" level of performance.

For a continuing argument......can you explain in laymans why my 16x SL burns would seem to always perform worse in my..."admittedly junk"....dvd player than my 8x on the same media? I've burned enough dvds to be sure this is true for me

 

[Meksilon]

"When referring to DVD"...if this is truly used in such a way, than it was coined by some know-nothing company along the way and caught on, because the term is still used to mean "write extra data to a dvd", because you can still DO thatYou can still do that, on CD-R. DVD-R, DVD+R and DL media cannot be overburnt, full stop. There may well be a way to "force" some very specific burners into burning past the "end of the disc", but that isn't the same as CD-R overburning, it's not even close, and you would almost certainly experience an "error in the burning process". And besides, I'm sure this was probably accomplished in like 2006, 2007 well after the "overburning" term for DVD-R was in use, and was then never really used because it wouldn't be useful, it wouldn't be reliable.

Also, unless I missed it somewhere, while you are absolutely right about the speeds of the burning, you are not taking into account the potential fact that not all burners may actually exceed standards, and daresay some might fall below standards after minimal use.
One of the whole reasons we a reach "max" burning speeds is because "wobble" during the process gets to high due to the mass, ect. of the media. Basically what it breaks down to is that at the "max" burning speed of a media standard (not say, if you still had 8x max SL and were burning them at 8x, but actually a disc that was rated as fast as possible and was burnt so) then you are treading a fine line.
You are, again, talking about old dare-I-say outdated CD-R theory; and the speeds that reached above 50x. DVD burners are not the same as CD-R burners; the cheap ones are (and here's where you're partly right) better at some speeds than others, although normally it's about their top rated speeds for the media (or the one below). But it's more a factor of the DVD-R that determines what speed it can be written to, optimally. 1x CD read was about 500rpm. The theoretical limit for CD-R was about 23,000rpm which would equal 46x speed - and why the "wobble" comes in to the equation for high speed drives; so the theory is correct for CD-R - higher speed drives (48x +) do cause wobble problems. The maximum theoretical limit for DVD is 32,000rpm. 1x DVD is rotated at 570rpm. So 16x is 9,120 - far, far less than the 32,000 theoretical limit (you'd have to get to 58x speed to cross the limit), and is equal to spinning a CD-R at 18.25x - so as you can see it's no where near even close to approaching the kind of problem associated with wobble.
QUOTE

For a continuing argument......can you explain in laymans why my 16x SL burns would seem to always perform worse in my..."admittedly junk"....dvd player than my 8x on the same media? I've burned enough dvds to be sure this is true for me

Are you using 16x media? If you are, then maybe 12x would be better - although for current good media (Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden) 16x should be the optimal speed, as far as I'm aware of.

 

[noobwarrior7]

well ok then..old theory debunked...more people should know this.

and yea, its good media...Ill just live without an personal explanation, I'm happy at 8x

 

[Meksilon]

well ok then..old theory debunked...more people should know this.

and yea, its good media...Ill just live without an personal explanation, I'm happy at 8x

Well it's not your fault, DVD technology is very confusing at the best of times. And the quality of the media is much worse than CD-R - meaning 20 years from now your CD-R media (even the crappy stuff) will most likely out-live all your DVD+/-R media. This was one of the reasons I never wanted Bluray to win the format war - but I was probably dreaming if I ever thought blank media would be of any "decent" quality any time soon.