Advice re: Recording (or ripping) PS5 audio

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  1. I am not aware of any way to rip audio directly from a PS5 disc, are you? (game in question, Gran Turismo 7)
  2. As the PS5 doesn't have an optical out, I'm not sure how else to record the audio output out of the game now with a PS5, ideas?
    (for context, I'm the bozo that ripped the entire soundtrack from Gran Turismo Sport (as the official OST only has a few songs), but I did that with a PS4 and used the optical out into a PC sound card's optical in which was as good as I saw anyone else do for that situation)
 
They make hdmi to hdmi and optical converters. In fact, I'm using one for my receiver, which has no hdmi inputs.
I was thinking of that. Any recommendations on which one to get and any pitfalls to avoid?
(I want to make sure there isn't weird stuff, like it converting stereo PCM to mono or dropping the KHz or having a weird filter point, etc.)
 
I was thinking of that. Any recommendations on which one to get and any pitfalls to avoid?
(I want to make sure there isn't weird stuff, like it converting stereo PCM to mono or dropping the KHz or having a weird filter point, etc.)
I've always just bought what's available. the quality has always been great.
 
yes a hdmi to hdmi and optical breakout box, pretty cheap on amazon. most will do the exact same quality. look out for reviews i guess. it will take the raw audio format from source and give the same, so if ps5 is outputting pcm it will send pcm.
 
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A quick update for anyone who cares.

I ended up going the route of a HDMI-to-USB capture device as there seemed to be no point in getting an HDMI to optical converter since they were more expensive and more restrictive (and harder to find).

I bought a VIVITAR HDMI-to-USB Capture Card from Walmart for like $20. It looks very unremarkable as it's literally a little flash-drive sized looking thing with a male USB end (output) and female HDMI (input).

418ca4ae-b244-4a24-853c-857dab84cf10.cb3b3f52ee2f083553d32c92e3882384.jpeg


This capture card behaves oddly in that the audio is captured as a single channel. The 48KHz Stereo signal is folded (interleaved? interlaced?) into a single channel @ 96KHz (so 2x 48KHz channels into 1x 96KHz channel) with data appearing at the non-audible range above 48KHz for one of the stereo channels. In order to record any audio properly, you have to remap that data to go into the adjacent channel, which I did using a tool called "Virtual Audio Cable" and "mono-to-stereo" by ToadKing (more info here: https://github.com/ToadKing/mono-to-stereo/releases and here https://www.reddit.com/r/obs/comments/mm0saj/psa_if_youre_using_one_of_those_cheapo_1020ish/ )

I verified that the stereo mapping was correct (and not just doubling a single mono signal) by playing a game, recording audio, and verifying that the left channel contained content properly (so having something happen on the left-hand side and confirming the recording on the left channel did carry the sound content vs the right channel).

In other words, Vivitar uses a FAKE mono signal to capture audio and it's really a stereo 48KHz signal that's transmitted using a single channel by doubling the KHz container range. I have no idea on the technical reasons why this device behaves that way, all I can comment is on how I fixed it and verified the solution to be accurate.

FWIW, hope that's helpful to someone.
 
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