So Honeylab just figured out USB OTG and got it working;
http://honeylab.hatenablog.jp/entry/2017/02/18/015102
Looks like it will still need to be externally powered for now.
In one of his latest blog posts, he now thinks it's a hardware issue and is looking to see if he can trace down what the NES Mini board is potentially missing or is disconnected. He also recently bought an Olimex A33 dev board he is using as reference. It would be awesome if it wound up just...
You could probably get crafty and start compressing pngs, but as the actual partition size is only 390.79MB you're never going to get a 420MBs of data on there through conventional means. If You know Japanese and your handy with a soldering iron, Honeylab has a solution though...
You have about 300MB. Disabling the music doesn't free up any space, as it's just swapping in the silence.wav for the background/boot music and the files still exist in another folder.
I put up a How-To on the video up on /r/newclassicmods last night, but I kind of agree with Jelmer that with the new version coming out soon you might as well wait, unless you really want more ROMs right now. Also it doesn't allow you to upload more ROMs at one time, it just lets you upload your...
It's only a matter of time before hacking it blows up as the NAND has already been dumped, decoded and Doom is already been run on it. I'd imagine it will be pretty easy to load mods on in the future, as the Classic can be put in an FEL/fastboot mode like an Android phone/tablet. The only thing...
I've created an image pack for all 84 US NES VC games using their original box art. In order to make the boxes fit the dimensions properly I've rotated each box counter clock wise. I've left two of the Famicom imports (Dig Dug and Ninja JaJaMaru-kun) in their original format...
A workaround for 4.2 happened less then 12 hours after it's release and NSMB was cracked 2ish (or more) days before an offical release, I'm confused about your definition of hard.
The harder something is to do, the more rewarding it is to do.
-FTen
Best way to get it out is a bit extractor. This kit has a zero bit extractor and the price isn't that bad, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q6FVL4 . These kits are good to have around anyway.
Cheapest way is to use a drill, which I've used many time in the past to get out stripped screws...
Q1. The best phillips head to use is a #00 size, although if you can't find a #00, a #0 should work with a little pressure.
Q2. The cutting tool is used to pry up the feet and strickers that hide the screws. I use a tiny flat tip for that, but really you can use what ever you think will pry it...
They also sell tri-wing screw driver bits in security bit sets. I just picked up this set at micro-center for 20 bucks, which is a pretty good deal for this size of a set.
http://www.micro-center.com/single_product...duct_id=0273766
If you don't have a Micro Center try Radio Shack or a Frys.
-FTen
Yeah I've tried a few different things to fix a broken clip (Hot glue, tape, toothpick, prayer, etc) and none of them work very good or for very long. You could always just buy another clip, I think they go for about 10 bucks.
-FTen
My fix is a temporary patch for those who are having issues with certain tools they would like to use now and not wait for someone else to catch up. Also you probably already realized that this fix is exactly what Preloader (hack.ini wise, that is) does, and at any point time can be rolled back...
I've actually created a UPS (kinda like IPS) patch for US SM 4.2 Hex hack. So now there is only a single button press, well maybe two, involved and no hex editor. If anyone is interested in testing it pm me. Oh and remember it could brick your Wii and this hack is not "officially" sanctioned by...