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JRunner can do all of those things, I'd say leave it permanently at 75%, the cooler the 360 the better (got a RGH Falcon meself)

PicoFlasher is the cheaper method of doing it if you don't have one of the top quality programmers.

Raspberry Pi Picos are only around $10 or lower depending on where you buy them from.

@SylverReZ you can dump the NAND via LPT, it only requires some diodes and wire.
It's the cheapest method.

And that as well, but nobody ever uses parallel ports on computers anymore.

No reason to not mention it.

I read some stuff online that it's better to set a temperature target and let the SMC handle the fan speed rather than setting a fixed fan speed, but IDK

I'm pretty certain that after running mine for some 10 years RGH'd that I can say for certainty that it'll handle the set speed pretty well.
Should the 360 get warmer, the fans would ramp up, especially so after setting temp targets.

I should mention that it's the first generation Coolrunner chip with unoptimised wiring at that haha.

LPT is not necessarily the cheapest method, considering nobody has a LPT port and those USB to LPT adapters may or may not even work for that purpose. Trying to use that method with a USB adapter (which is the only way for most people nowadays) could end up being a waste of money.

I have a Pi 3 and some Arduinos and checked whether I could do it with either of those, Arduino can only dump, and the code for Pi has not been tested much, the one guy that tested it on a Pi 3 said dumping worked but flashing bricked his 360 until he reflashed with a proper flasher. So I'm not going down that route, although it would have been fun to do it today.

Honestly, I have several LPT equipped machines here but that doesn't matter.

I've never done anything with a Pico, still have the old NAND-X from back in the day so I never switched.
But yeah having a way to write to the NAND is a must, without XeLL on it, you wouldn't be able to obtain your CPU key.

The X-clamps were not the easiest to get off, but with a combination of 2 methods I found online, they came off without scratching the board. The old GPU thermal paste was really stubborn for some reason, while it came off much easier on the CPU. But got that part done.

I have the wires with resistor + diode soldered to them ready to go, I need to go buy a new battery for my multimeter tomorrow so I can measure for shorts as I'm soldering but I should be able to do the mod tomorrow. The size of the pads for the RGH itself is a little intimidating, smaller than anything I've soldered, but the same principles still apply so should be doable.

I use a small philips precision screwdriver to pop the clamps off, after having done 100s of 360s, It comes natural to me haha ;p

Sounds like you're almost there!
Got some pics of the install and solder job?

I don't think I even need to measure for shorts. I avoided running the exposed part of the wires over any other pads or components. The hardest one (nearest the X-clamp) isn't touching anything, though it's hard to tell from that angle.
Soldering wasn't too bad. One of the components near the hardest one looks a bit crooked, but I don't think I caused that, it was probably always like that.

Good soldering, Jdbye. But I would use fine kynar wire for the joints.

I hate kynar wire. Silicone insulated wire is so much easier to work with. I've seen it recommended by modders too. In fact, the wire suggested for GC Picoboot is the exact wire I'm using (but 26 awg instead of 30)

I can understand why the wire is more thicker.