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AGS-001 screen in AGB-001, a blast from the past!

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Oh my God, this ribbons are killing me, i am not sure why but right now i have 3 open GBA's 6 white tabs screens and 6 adapters to test, BUT none of the results i'm getting are the same as before... or the results from Aoba964

SO since all the ribbons are new and i belive if someone is getting one i hope they results be the same...
First of all good news bad news my first try are probably with only brown tabs resulting in the strange inverse colors, but now i only have white tabs and they just doesnt work, at least at first(and here i don't know why Aoba get his white tab working without doing nothing...), the pin 34 receives 13v and if you connect the 001 screen it just turn on and off very quickly, but if you cut the traces on the right between the second and third pads count from bottom to top the gba will turn on but without front light, but them you can bridge the pads on the top left of the ribbon and it will around 3v to pin 34 from pin 2(don't ask me why it's just what my multimeter shows) and the sceren just works so no need for extra component and extra wire for the frontlit, but i'm gonna try a 32pin(getting power from somewhere diferent than top of c56 because i found some points with 3.2v and 4v but need to open the gba 32 pin to confirm) screen and ribbon because as i sad before i have 001 screens and ribons to spare now, so i will try one of each one 40 pin just ribbon and a 32 with the light getting power from somewhere without a resistor, i could and should make a video about it, but my desk is a real mess so i am need to pack stuff to travel after tomorrow so not sure about anything...

and just one note, the 40 pin is just a hair dimmer than the SP but i am only able to identfy it in a full darkness and a white background
 

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Ok... so i got the other cables and preparead to enter in contact with the seller because the adapters didn't work from start, and what just happen, is that now my withe tabs are turning on but with the inverted colors, i am really upseat with all those things because when i received and tested the first ones i was getting shutdown and now they are inverted, but with the trace cutted the colors became normal but still without frontlit, and as i said before you can get the frontlit on by shorting the pads on the left, by the way the board i am testing is a gba cpu 01, yesterday i tested on a cpu02 not sure if that is the reason...
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Ok different news on AGB-CPU-01 it does the interted color things, and on a AGB-CPU-03 it do the turn off thing, i know i should put more info into here but i have like one hour to get on my trip and i decided to bring my multimeter with me and i note bringing the GBA stuff so i will not have time to check the why's of this situation before i came back but that will be around jan 25 so i got one month appart until io can test stuff with more info, what i can say now for sure is CPU-01 inverted color with white tabs and CPU-02 and 03 turn off, but both work with the solder joint and the trace cut (that i could check because i leave some stock and the modified ribbons on each step) BUT one thing i can say for sure is i note recomend CPU-01 for this mod because it has an extra film resistor in the place the adapter should fit and it will be mostly impossible to fit the 001 screen inside a cpu01 without doing something about it on the others if you try i recomend using the double sided tape and glue the adapter in the are under de AGB CPU that will help with the fit but i am still getting pressure points if i screw all the way in if you keep the screws loose is something accepteable but not perfect need more time and a new shell to try and see the critical points where to make the shell thinner to fit the 001 screen with no problems
 
Last edited by Kuri3,
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Kuri3 said:
Oh my God, this ribbons are killing me, i am not sure why but right now i have 3 open GBA's 6 white tabs screens and 6 adapters to test, BUT none of the results i'm getting are the same as before... or the results from Aoba964

SO since all the ribbons are new and i belive if someone is getting one i hope they results be the same...
First of all good news bad news my first try are probably with only brown tabs resulting in the strange inverse colors, but now i only have white tabs and they just doesnt work, at least at first(and here i don't know why Aoba get his white tab working without doing nothing...), the pin 34 receives 13v and if you connect the 001 screen it just turn on and off very quickly, but if you cut the traces on the right between the second and third pads count from bottom to top the gba will turn on but without front light, but them you can bridge the pads on the top left of the ribbon and it will around 3v to pin 34 from pin 2(don't ask me why it's just what my multimeter shows) and the sceren just works so no need for extra component and extra wire for the frontlit, but i'm gonna try a 32pin(getting power from somewhere diferent than top of c56 because i found some points with 3.2v and 4v but need to open the gba 32 pin to confirm) screen and ribbon because as i sad before i have 001 screens and ribons to spare now, so i will try one of each one 40 pin just ribbon and a 32 with the light getting power from somewhere without a resistor, i could and should make a video about it, but my desk is a real mess so i am need to pack stuff to travel after tomorrow so not sure about anything...

and just one note, the 40 pin is just a hair dimmer than the SP but i am only able to identfy it in a full darkness and a white background
Click to expand...

Beep out your specific ribbon to my diagram. The connections should be made as I made them, and no other way. Any other way is wrong, and will damage something.

Other than VSHD and DGND being swapped in early pins, the pinout should be exactly the same until SPS. Beep it out, it should be the same.
Also DO NOTICE, that in my diagram, the 32-pin pinout is shifted down by one, so it skips pin1 of 40-pin.

After SPS, the adapter is absolutely horrible. You need to check each pin if it connects correctly.
Also, disconnect *all* components on the ribbon. Those resistors are definitely wrong, they definitely do not connect correctly.

Also, cut out 13V from backlight pins, that is ABSOLUTELY WRONG!
On real motherboard, LEDA is tied to 5V (you can take from top of C56, or VSHA if really desperate), and LEDK is switched to GND using current-limited transistor in linear regulator configuration. LIMIT THE CURRENT, otherwise the backlight will slowly fade and break. You can use resistor, afaik 500 Ohm is the lowest safe resistance at 5V, and make it higher to lower the brightness.
 
Hi i just returned from my trip today, i need to revise everything about the connections and the voltage for the screen led, but besides the light i can't imagine how the AGS screen can be damaged by receiving signals different from the original values if the screen show the right image...　btw on an AGB CPU 02 the one i bring with me i played for around 40+ hours with not other problem than the light being a little dimmer [completed the pokedex on pkmn pinball =D ]
About the light i believe is better just connect direct to get power from somewhere else, just not sure how many volts are the ideal, same for a AGB 32 pins with just the led getting voltage from somewhere else in the board, i don7t remember from where i put this in my mind but i thought the LED on a AGS001 should receive 4v, but if you say 5v is the regular voltage i can try with that and see the results.

By the way on my trip i have a chance to get a IPS screen GBA for cheap, and to be honest the GBA games look better than the original GBA and AGS-001screen, but GBC and GB games just feel like i am using an emulator and see no reason to have a modded GBA only for GBA games, at least on the IPS screen model it have that i don't know if it has a menu at least it appear to change the brightness with select+LR and have 9 levels of brightness, but i wasn't able to find any menu with any combination of the soldered buttons, i will take some photos later to discover what screen is installed on it...

And just another thing but i don't know why, but an IPS screen kit got really cheap around the new year [something V4], like one third of the price, i received it but didn't have a chance to install it yet, let's see if my opinion changes when i have scan lines on gb gbc games, but i still gonna try to to the end of this thing from having a AGS001 screen on a GBA in the worst scenario will be a 32 pin with power going to screen from somewhere in the board [just not sure about the voltage yet]
 
Ok i got back home and have time to test and try the new IPS kit, and i am gonna be 100% honest, i like the scanlines and the kit is good, most of the kits i saw mako installing have a thin screen and him itself talked about the problems in really installing a IPS kit on a shell and be commited to this decision because you probrably will not be able to take the screen of the shell again, the kit i got has a very thick screen with a metal frame, and fits the OEM shell with no problems, just the screen seens to be a hair bigger than the OEM plastic lens, but is like you can lost one pixel line on the angle you see the screen, BUT the only reason i buyed one was because it was really cheap, as i said before around half of the normal price [i paid in Yenes{japanese money} but the equivalent to 18USD ship included] searching the same kit it is around 40USD now idk why it was soo cheap but i am happy i got one, but this topic still being about putting a AGS001 screen on a AGB and i am still decided to make one looking good and sharp and i am still gonna keep searching how to make this dream come true.
 
I'm not sure i understand- are you saying that you still want to do the AGS-001 screen mod on a 32pin AGB? But you picked up a cheap IPS for now?

Iif doing this on a 32pin AGB it really is as simple as stripping the lens off an AGS-001 screen, grabbing an adapter ribbon, and wiring power to the screen from a single point on the motherboard, the resistor is just there to make things as close as possible to the original driver circuitry without wiring up a current sink "dead bug style" with a transistor arrangement. From there it's just fitting the screen to the shell, which was simple on my aftermarket shell.

Or are we talking two separate Gameboy projects?
 
two separate projects, i will keep the trying to use a 40pin gba with a AGS001 screen, in a worst case scenario if i am unnable to do it i will use a 32 pin and keep for nostaljic and original felling. of course the problem in fitting a AGS001 screen inside the GBA WITHOUT removing the screen from the original black plastic, making alteration only to the shell, i need order a new shell to do it so because i got a IPS shell and just realized the sizes all strange with those three dots on botton and two on the side, didnt tryi to put and close the AGS screen inside, but since it appear to be designed to the simplest thinner version of ips i have no confidence it will fit...
 
So I decided to implement this guide https://gbatemp.net/threads/40-pin-gba-with-white-tab-lcd-perfect-solution.448597/ towards AGS-001 LCDs, and got some good results, but still no concrete solution.
AGS-001 LCD without working frontlight worked flawlessly, but as soon frontlight is connected - image reverse its colurs. Tested on three frontlightless LCD, one with actually working, and one that had no frontlit, but I managed assemble from that units I ruined previously.
 
I didn't have energy yet to read back the history of this thread (the lack of punctuation and a wall of text blob mushed together is not helping either), but I'm worried about what little I understand while reading...

Aoba964 said:
So I decided to implement this guide https://gbatemp.net/threads/40-pin-gba-with-white-tab-lcd-perfect-solution.448597/ towards AGS-001 LCDs, and got some good results, but still no concrete solution.
AGS-001 LCD without working frontlight worked flawlessly, but as soon frontlight is connected - image reverse its colurs. Tested on three frontlightless LCD, one with actually working, and one that had no frontlit, but I managed assemble from that units I ruined previously.
Click to expand...

On the right side of the ribbon, there is two pads connected, cut them, as the frontlight is loading down high voltage gate voltage.

Cut the red line to disconnect frontlight from high voltage that loads down necessary analog line.
(image taken from [your post])

1772038990505.png
 
Sono said:
I didn't have energy yet to read back the history of this thread (the lack of punctuation and a wall of text blob mushed together is not helping either), but I'm worried about what little I understand while reading...



On the right side of the ribbon, there is two pads connected, cut them, as the frontlight is loading down high voltage gate voltage.

Cut the red line to disconnect frontlight from high voltage that loads down necessary analog line.
(image taken from [your post])

View attachment 558928
Click to expand...
Wow that was fast. Forgot to mention, that I have swapped connector type. Here its scheme that I managed to do, but I ordered a few more, with one that I plan to scalp LCD connector in order to see what below, so that WIP scheme
 

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Aoba964 said:
Wow that was fast. Forgot to mention, that I have swapped connector type. Here its scheme that I managed to do, but I ordered a few more, with one that I plan to scalp LCD connector in order to see what below, so that WIP scheme
Click to expand...

Oh, this ribbon is a lot better than the others...

Also, if you're skilled in soldering, you can cut C1, and solder to half circle the REVC wire going to the motherboard, without destroying the GBA motherboard with the VEE line.

Still annoying that they tie LEDK to GND, but at least this is the most compatible, needing only a single cut and solder.
C2 can stay closed, and adjust contrast wheel using contrast pot already on GBA board.

Edit: this also ties AGND and DGND, so this is also compatible with brown tab, directly out of the box, after doing the REVC wire.
 
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Sono said:
Oh, this ribbon is a lot better than the others...

Also, if you're skilled in soldering, you can cut C1, and solder to half circle the REVC wire going to the motherboard, without destroying the GBA motherboard with the VEE line.

Still annoying that they tie LEDK to GND, but at least this is the most compatible, needing only a single cut and solder.
C2 can stay closed, and adjust contrast wheel using contrast pot already on GBA board.

Edit: this also ties AGND and DGND, so this is also compatible with brown tab, directly out of the box, after doing the REVC wire.
Click to expand...
Well, I tried with REVC only, and picture wasn't right at all. Adjusting VR1 didn't do anything right. Picture was too bright.
Best results so far that I had was with AGS-001 panel without frontlight and that method with extra potentiometer, in that case that was basically like stock LCD, minus tint from coating.
Only ideas that I have for now - somehow revers REVC or/and MOD from extra VR (doubt that will do anything) or disconnect frontlight and feed it separately.
Funnily enough that its somewhat similar to what happens if connect AGS-001 LCD in AGS-101 mobo.
And I should order battery compartment with crocodiles connectors. That pot adjustment isn't so joyful to me. And maybe extra ribbon...
 
Aoba964 said:
Well, I tried with REVC only, and picture wasn't right at all. Adjusting VR1 didn't do anything right. Picture was too bright.
Best results so far that I had was with AGS-001 panel without frontlight and that method with extra potentiometer, in that case that was basically like stock LCD, minus tint from coating.
Only ideas that I have for now - somehow revers REVC or/and MOD from extra VR (doubt that will do anything) or disconnect frontlight and feed it separately.
Funnily enough that its somewhat similar to what happens if connect AGS-001 LCD in AGS-101 mobo.
And I should order battery compartment with crocodiles connectors. That pot adjustment isn't so joyful to me. And maybe extra ribbon...
Click to expand...
Well, using AGS-101 connecting method (https://gbatemp.net/threads/40-pin-gba-with-white-tab-lcd-perfect-solution.448597/) + running frontlight from separate source (not from ribbon) works for me. Looks...well, just as AGS-001 LCD, maybe a lit dimmer, since I run it through 56 Ohm resistor, but enough for me. Will run battery test to see if it working properly in a long run. But I'm pretty happy with result. Also, this is one of the first AGB revisions (AGB CPU 01) 40 pin. Thanks everyone for helping
 

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Aoba964 said:
Well, using AGS-101 connecting method (https://gbatemp.net/threads/40-pin-gba-with-white-tab-lcd-perfect-solution.448597/) + running frontlight from separate source (not from ribbon) works for me. Looks...well, just as AGS-001 LCD, maybe a lit dimmer, since I run it through 56 Ohm resistor, but enough for me. Will run battery test to see if it working properly in a long run. But I'm pretty happy with result. Also, this is one of the first AGB revisions (AGB CPU 01) 40 pin. Thanks everyone for helping
Click to expand...

That thread is literally my method, but slightly worse. VCOM *is* COM, just the naming is not stable across displays. If you trace the motherboard, on both GBAs it's a rotating pot between VSHA and AGND.
As for REVC... same as I said, except I said to take it from AGB-REG pin3 if you're skilled enough to solder to such small pin, because ripping the REVC test pad will be a costly repair.
 
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Sono said:
That thread is literally my method, but slightly worse. VCOM *is* COM, just the naming is not stable across displays. If you trace the motherboard, on both GBAs it's a rotating pot between VSHA and AGND.
As for REVC... same as I said, except I said to take it from AGB-REG pin3 if you're skilled enough to solder to such small pin, because ripping the REVC test pad will be a costly repair.
Click to expand...
I tried with VCOM and REVC - the result was that picture is really dim - near pitch black (No matter potentiometer adjustment). Maybe it skill issue on my part, I genuinely don't know. I wish it is since adding pot and all other stuff look really ugly inside. BUT this one works for me. Run battery test for 10 HRS, and everything is okay so far.
But I agree on AGB - REG solder point, I tore my REVC test pin, and soldering directly to CPU isn't fun.
 
Aoba964 said:
I tried with VCOM and REVC - the result was that picture is really dim - near pitch black (No matter potentiometer adjustment). Maybe it skill issue on my part, I genuinely don't know. I wish it is since adding pot and all other stuff look really ugly inside. BUT this one works for me. Run battery test for 10 HRS, and everything is okay so far.
But I agree on AGB - REG solder point, I tore my REVC test pin, and soldering directly to CPU isn't fun.
Click to expand...

If your REVC is torn, then the line doesn't reach AGB-REG, as it goes through that test pad.

Also, I wonder now if the pot on the 40-pin is not 10k, and thus, too weak to supply enough current to 32/34-pin screens... I've traced it a lot of times, the circuit is equal otherwise.
 
Sono said:
If your REVC is torn, then the line doesn't reach AGB-REG, as it goes through that test pad.

Also, I wonder now if the pot on the 40-pin is not 10k, and thus, too weak to supply enough current to 32/34-pin screens... I've traced it a lot of times, the circuit is equal otherwise.
Click to expand...
I connected from CPU leg to AGB REG, and from that connected to the LCD, checked conductivity, and it present from CPU leg all way to LCD, so it's connected. Don't know AGB 40 pin VR1 value sadly
 
Aoba964 said:
Well, using AGS-101 connecting method (https://gbatemp.net/threads/40-pin-gba-with-white-tab-lcd-perfect-solution.448597/) + running frontlight from separate source (not from ribbon) works for me. Looks...well, just as AGS-001 LCD, maybe a lit dimmer, since I run it through 56 Ohm resistor, but enough for me. Will run battery test to see if it working properly in a long run. But I'm pretty happy with result. Also, this is one of the first AGB revisions (AGB CPU 01) 40 pin. Thanks everyone for helping
Click to expand...
How did you find space to use the adapter on the cpu 01? the extra resistor makes impossible to me to fit in place, and can you post photos or advice where u sanded the case to fit the screen without making pressure points?
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