Xbox Series X Testpoints TP readings

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XSX_TPs.png


SB = Southbridge board
SoC = SoC board
 
I have a Series X with 1 second white light after powering up and then powers off. I've been doing some checking and I found this: TP2 12V-GATED in Southbridge Board is showing 2.76v instead of OL and TP4 in SoC board - instead of 149 mV is showing 49mV. Any idea where I should focus next? Thanks!
Post automatically merged:

After more inspection I found this two things:

Shorted R700 resistor:
Capture 2.PNG


Damaged R47 Inductor:
S20250331_0003.jpg
 
Last edited by awler2,
R700 is a 0Ohm resistor connected to ground, So it is ok. The coil should be ok, if there is continuity from side to side. Seems to be a good spot to be broken, if someone tries to remove the metal shield. :P

2.76V seems a bit off for a diode mode reading.

If MEMIO value is off, I would check the both drmos U32 and U60 for visible damage or unusual readings in compare to the other drmoses.
 
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R700 is a 0Ohm resistor connected to ground, So it is ok. The coil should be ok, if there is continuity from side to side. Seems to be a good spot to be broken, if someone tries to remove the metal shield. :P

2.76V seems a bit off for a diode mode reading.

If MEMIO value is off, I would check the both drmos U32 and U60 for visible damage or unusual readings in compare to the other drmoses.
Thanks for the response. The 2.76V diode reading, yes seems a bit off but I double checked, do you know what components are attached to this line?

About the Drmoses, how would you do it to get readings and check it with others? I'm thinking in using a thermal camera/ inject voltage, but I don't have it right now.
Post automatically merged:

Thanks for the response. The 2.76V diode reading, yes seems a bit off but I double checked, do you know what components are attached to this line?

About the Drmoses, how would you do it to get readings and check it with others? I'm thinking in using a thermal camera/ inject voltage, but I don't have it right now.
I found what appears to be some liquid damage on the edges of the Southbridge Board, may have something to do with it?
Post automatically merged:

Also here are all the readings that I'm getting. I already checked the 12v connector on SoC and SB and there are no shorts.
 

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Last edited by awler2,
With a grain of salt, because the southbridge has an issue on the measured board:

Code:
#        name            diode        resist
pin 1    GND              0          0
pin 2    12V_GATED        521mV      9.7kOhm
pin 3    FAN TACH         1436mV     5.8kOhm
pin 4    FAN PWM          755mV      5.8MOhm
 
With a grain of salt, because the southbridge has an issue on the measured board:

Code:
#        name            diode        resist
pin 1    GND              0          0
pin 2    12V_GATED        521mV      9.7kOhm
pin 3    FAN TACH         1436mV     5.8kOhm
pin 4    FAN PWM          755mV      5.8MOhm
Thanks, pretty close to mine reading. What issue was it on your southbridge?
 
The line to the southbridge at pin 4 from the AND-gate is getting hot. I changed the gate but still the same.
Additional on 1P1STBY is a ghost voltage from the southbridge if U34 is removed.

It was a repair, where I offered my service for replacing the Nexus-connector and ribbon flex and the customer desided to try it himself and in the end returned to me and want a repair after he soldered wires to bypass the broken Nexus connector and than shorted the southbridge and damage the board beyond repair.

SB_V2_.jpg
 
The line to the southbridge at pin 4 from the AND-gate is getting hot. I changed the gate but still the same.
Additional on 1P1STBY is a ghost voltage from the southbridge if U34 is removed.

It was a repair, where I offered my service for replacing the Nexus-connector and ribbon flex and the customer desided to try it himself and in the end returned to me and want a repair after he soldered wires to bypass the broken Nexus connector and than shorted the southbridge and damage the board beyond repair.

View attachment 498362
AH, I hear SB daughter board can be replaced but required SPI flash chip transfer over, havent done any myself yet.
 
This is what I did to get the Xbox back to life. Dumping the NOR data and transfer it to another SB board. And so I have a defect SB board for quick testing laying around. :)
 
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Hi to all!

I've an xbox series x that didn´t power on.

I´ve this readings:

D.jpg




TP8 is a low impedance, initially, have a 1v1 regulator burned, changed it, from another working, only for test, it have 1v1 output, if i put an external source with 1v1, consume is less than a 100 mA... So, how can i determine, if SB is bad?
 
Last edited by xiran64,
TP8 is a low impedance, initially, have a 1v1 regulator burned, changed it, from another working, only for test, it have 1v1 output, if i put an external source with 1v1, consume is less than a 100 mA... So, how can i determine, if SB is bad?

If the regulator burned and after replacing the 1V1 are back and the readings are fine, the issue should been solved. Or do I miss something?
 
If the regulator burned and after replacing the 1V1 are back and the readings are fine, the issue should been solved. Or do I miss something?
The xbox didn´t power on (pressing power button or eject button in sub board), no beep, connect control xbox one to try to power on (all sub boards connected), without luck...
Voltages are the same in your table, but TP8 resistor and diode are very low (not short), diode mode 21mV and resistence are 19 ohms, vs 315mV & 2.1k in yours.
Put external 1v1 to see if a compontent overheat, but no... consume are 76 mA
In another xbox series x, isolating only daughterboard, connect only power button pcb and 12v, it power on, some seconds, and power off (this is only for test, if didn´t power on daughterboard, the problem maybe are in daughterboard, but isn´t the same version, so, i don´t know, if both have same behavior)
 
Last edited by xiran64,
So your low reading at TP8 are still there after replacing the regulator.
I would remove the regulator again and check if at the 1v1 rail is any voltage present. If so, I guess the southbridge is some how powering this rail, what shouldn't be.
 
So your low reading at TP8 are still there after replacing the regulator.
I would remove the regulator again and check if at the 1v1 rail is any voltage present. If so, I guess the southbridge is some how powering this rail, what shouldn't be.
Ok, i´ll try
UPDATE:
With ic 8 pins desoldered:

e.jpg


This are the new voltages, tp8 descend, tp10 grow 0.15v
UPDATE:
025mV diode mode, and 19.6 ohms
 
Last edited by xiran64,
Ok, i´ll try
UPDATE:
With ic 8 pins desoldered:

View attachment 561438

This are the new voltages, tp8 descend, tp10 grow 0.15v
UPDATE:
025mV diode mode, and 19.6 ohms
There are various capacitors in that line, so before to doubt from southbridge (more difficult), will check all capacitors associates at that line (17+ capacitors...)
 
I'm working on an Xbox Series X with a 2-second shutoff issue.



via Pi Pico): The log reports:

SP





(2): 0007 [SP_RAM_SHUTDOWN]

Shutdown due to memory error.. last code shows which

chip. rerun multiple times or ask on discord, if

no Bank data is decoded.



By the way, I am already changed three of RAM and don’t fix the problem



ALSO NOTES THE VALUE IS DIFFERENT

Diode
TP17 = 404
P15=580

,
The ones labeled with the yellow balloon almost all read zero resistance. Is this normal?
 

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Last edited by BASHEER,
This is what I did to get the Xbox back to life. Dumping the NOR data and transfer it to another SB board. And so I have a defect SB board for quick testing laying around. :)
Hi,

I've fixed a soc board (shortcut on V_3P3STBY) but i have two sb board and i don't know wich one is the good for this soc board.

With the first one the xbox stay on but no display
with rthe second one xbox start and stop.
Is there a way to know wich one is the good ?

Thanks
 
Hi,

I've fixed a soc board (shortcut on V_3P3STBY) but i have two sb board and i don't know wich one is the good for this soc board.

With the first one the xbox stay on but no display
with rthe second one xbox start and stop.
Is there a way to know wich one is the good ?

Thanks

I would use PicoDurangoPost to diagnose the Xbox. (https://github.com/xboxoneresearch/PicoDurangoPOST)

The southbridge board has a little NOR chip, which contains unique data. If you want to use another southbridge board, you need to transfer the original NOR data to the new southbridge board.
 
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