Thanks for the response. The 2.76V diode reading, yes seems a bit off but I double checked, do you know what components are attached to this line?R700 is a 0Ohm resistor connected to ground, So it is ok. The coil should be ok, if there is continuity from side to side. Seems to be a good spot to be broken, if someone tries to remove the metal shield.
2.76V seems a bit off for a diode mode reading.
If MEMIO value is off, I would check the both drmos U32 and U60 for visible damage or unusual readings in compare to the other drmoses.
I found what appears to be some liquid damage on the edges of the Southbridge Board, may have something to do with it?Thanks for the response. The 2.76V diode reading, yes seems a bit off but I double checked, do you know what components are attached to this line?
About the Drmoses, how would you do it to get readings and check it with others? I'm thinking in using a thermal camera/ inject voltage, but I don't have it right now.

# name diode resist
pin 1 GND 0 0
pin 2 12V_GATED 521mV 9.7kOhm
pin 3 FAN TACH 1436mV 5.8kOhm
pin 4 FAN PWM 755mV 5.8MOhm

Thanks, pretty close to mine reading. What issue was it on your southbridge?With a grain of salt, because the southbridge has an issue on the measured board:
Code:# name diode resist pin 1 GND 0 0 pin 2 12V_GATED 521mV 9.7kOhm pin 3 FAN TACH 1436mV 5.8kOhm pin 4 FAN PWM 755mV 5.8MOhm

AH, I hear SB daughter board can be replaced but required SPI flash chip transfer over, havent done any myself yet.The line to the southbridge at pin 4 from the AND-gate is getting hot. I changed the gate but still the same.
Additional on 1P1STBY is a ghost voltage from the southbridge if U34 is removed.
It was a repair, where I offered my service for replacing the Nexus-connector and ribbon flex and the customer desided to try it himself and in the end returned to me and want a repair after he soldered wires to bypass the broken Nexus connector and than shorted the southbridge and damage the board beyond repair.
View attachment 498362
TP8 is a low impedance, initially, have a 1v1 regulator burned, changed it, from another working, only for test, it have 1v1 output, if i put an external source with 1v1, consume is less than a 100 mA... So, how can i determine, if SB is bad?
The xbox didn´t power on (pressing power button or eject button in sub board), no beep, connect control xbox one to try to power on (all sub boards connected), without luck...If the regulator burned and after replacing the 1V1 are back and the readings are fine, the issue should been solved. Or do I miss something?
Ok, i´ll trySo your low reading at TP8 are still there after replacing the regulator.
I would remove the regulator again and check if at the 1v1 rail is any voltage present. If so, I guess the southbridge is some how powering this rail, what shouldn't be.
There are various capacitors in that line, so before to doubt from southbridge (more difficult), will check all capacitors associates at that line (17+ capacitors...)Ok, i´ll try
UPDATE:
With ic 8 pins desoldered:
View attachment 561438
This are the new voltages, tp8 descend, tp10 grow 0.15v
UPDATE:
025mV diode mode, and 19.6 ohms
Hi,This is what I did to get the Xbox back to life. Dumping the NOR data and transfer it to another SB board. And so I have a defect SB board for quick testing laying around.![]()
Hi,
I've fixed a soc board (shortcut on V_3P3STBY) but i have two sb board and i don't know wich one is the good for this soc board.
With the first one the xbox stay on but no display
with rthe second one xbox start and stop.
Is there a way to know wich one is the good ?
Thanks