Hacking Does anyone sell joycons with jig mod.

[Kallim]

I've seen some of the (more permanent) RCM mods. Including modifying the joycons.

Does anyone sell these pre done (ideally retail and factory manufactured like the 3d printed jig). But a 2nd hand one would be ok from an eBay shop as long as it worked well.

I just think this would be better than boot to RCM in Heckate.

 

[Rasa39]

I doubt there's demand to make a business out of it so chances are nobody is doing it, especially since it requires soldering a single wire. But if you want a permanent joycon mod then you might as well use auto RCM, since all the joycon does is add extra steps (and expense if you're buying one).
If anything you might find one used on auction sites, but I highly doubt there's a "service" for it, or if there is then it's probably some opportunist charging a fortune for it.

But if you wanna go the joycon route you could get a reed switch mod, were the joycon only works as a jig when you hold a magnet against it. I made one years ago when it was first mentioned and the material cost is really cheap, you could always do the permanent mod, or pay someone to do it for you, but all the permanent does is short the pins with a wire on the inside of the joycon rail, which iirc some people reported that it was bricking joycon after a while when they did that (or maybe it was only specifically when the console would update the joycon but not sure).

Hence the reed switch method which only completes the circuit when you place a magnet over the position of the reed switch from outside the joycon. I found a reed switch fit perfectly near the home button so I didn't need to cut or modify the joycon housing at all. But as mentioned I removed mine years ago because it's just extra steps at this point.

If you can do it yourself, then it's a fun little project, but otherwise I'd say just use autoRCM as it's probably a bit cheaper to just get a jig, and as long as you buy a good quality jig then it'll work every time you use it.

Also if your issue is with hekate, you can setup autoRCM and boot your payload without ever using hekate, it's just easier to use hekate and the tools we have now to do it.

 

[Kallim]

I doubt there's demand to make a business out of it so chances are nobody is doing it, especially since it requires soldering a single wire. But if you want a permanent joycon mod then you might as well use auto RCM, since all the joycon does is add extra steps (and expense if you're buying one).
If anything you might find one used on auction sites, but I highly doubt there's a "service" for it, or if there is then it's probably some opportunist charging a fortune for it.

But if you wanna go the joycon route you could get a reed switch mod, were the joycon only works as a jig when you hold a magnet against it. I made one years ago when it was first mentioned and the material cost is really cheap, you could always do the permanent mod, or pay someone to do it for you, but all the permanent does is short the pins with a wire on the inside of the joycon rail, which iirc some people reported that it was bricking joycon after a while when they did that (or maybe it was only specifically when the console would update the joycon but not sure).

Hence the reed switch method which only completes the circuit when you place a magnet over the position of the reed switch from outside the joycon. I found a reed switch fit perfectly near the home button so I didn't need to cut or modify the joycon housing at all. But as mentioned I removed mine years ago because it's just extra steps at this point.

If you can do it yourself, then it's a fun little project, but otherwise I'd say just use autoRCM as it's probably a bit cheaper to just get a jig, and as long as you buy a good quality jig then it'll work every time you use it.

Also if your issue is with hekate, you can setup autoRCM and boot your payload without ever using hekate, it's just easier to use hekate and the tools we have now to do it.

I've got an rcm loader and I usually boot fusee so no issues with hectare.

My joycons don't seem to clip in as snug as they used too. And I figured it could be the wear and tear of removal.

Currently if I remove them and gently push them towards or away from the Tablet screen they disconnect for a second (it's a bigger problem using lakka). They still work wireless fine.

I might take them apart just to clean them. I tried some isopropyl spray and a cotton bud (might be a Q tip where your from) but it didn't make much difference tbh.

Or buy new can't decide if I want nintendo ones. Normally I'd say avoid cheapo ones but the official ones seem to have loads of problems. Just thought I'd try and get them with a built in jig if possible.

I think maybe autorcm is the way to go. I'm a little concerned about the battery issue but I'm sure I'll deal with it.

 

[Kallim]

probably some opportunist charging a fortune for it.

Yep found one on eBay £90 (I could probably buy the tablet part for that). To be fair it was a reed switch mod but still mega bucks for what it is.

 

[M7L7NK7]

You shouldn't ever let your switch die, so you'll never have a battery issue with rcm

 

[Kallim]

You shouldn't ever let your switch die, so you'll never have a battery issue with rcm

I know but sometimes bad things happen. Especially when your letting your kids on it. I saw your other thread I feel for you. I guess the only thing you can try is a battery swap if you know someone with another switch lite.

If it's the firmware or software it won't help... Maybe you'll get lucky and the battery dying actually damaged the battery (so it's reporting correctly).

But I wouldn't hold your breath... Good luck with it though.

 

[M7L7NK7]

What other thread? Don't think that was me

 

[Kallim]

What other thread? Don't think that was me

Question Is it possible to add reboot to payload into the Hekate stock option?

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Question Is it possible to add reboot to payload into the Hekate stock option?

I'm not asking that was the name of the thread

 

[M7L7NK7]

I was saying what ther person you quoted said

 

[The Real Jdbye]

I've got an rcm loader and I usually boot fusee so no issues with hectare.

My joycons don't seem to clip in as snug as they used too. And I figured it could be the wear and tear of removal.

Currently if I remove them and gently push them towards or away from the Tablet screen they disconnect for a second (it's a bigger problem using lakka). They still work wireless fine.

I might take them apart just to clean them. I tried some isopropyl spray and a cotton bud (might be a Q tip where your from) but it didn't make much difference tbh.

Or buy new can't decide if I want nintendo ones. Normally I'd say avoid cheapo ones but the official ones seem to have loads of problems. Just thought I'd try and get them with a built in jig if possible.

I think maybe autorcm is the way to go. I'm a little concerned about the battery issue but I'm sure I'll deal with it.

The latches that hold the JoyCons in place are made of plastic, those parts get worn out from normal use, and get chipped if the Switch is dropped even if it's in a case (ask me how I know) and if they are chipped the latch no longer works and you can just push on them and they come right off, without holding the button on the back. If they are just worn out and chipped they might not come off but they might lose contact with the pins and get disconnected during gameplay because of how you're holding it, which can be a big annoyance.

That problem is easily solvable though, online such as on eBay or AliExpress you can buy metal latches that replace the plastic ones, they won't chip or wear out easily and the JoyCons should stay in place securely.

Edit:
If you have soldering tools, you can solder one end of a (very thin, as space is cramped) wire to pin 10 and wrap it around the screw that holds the little metal piece in place. Solder another wire to pin 1 and the metal latch. Now when you push the latch release button in it makes contact with the little metal piece bridging the contacts on pin 1 and 10. That's one way (and the best way IMO) to do a jig modded JoyCon. Since you don't need to bring a magnet with you always.
You don't need a metal latch to do that mod but I found it being very difficult to attach the wire to the plastic latch with glue or tape as it's so small and the wire itself has to be making contact with the metal piece in that case. Copper tape sounded like a good idea but it won't even stick to it properly, there's just not enough surface area to stick to. And my copper tape doesn't have conductive adhesive so the back side doesn't conduct to the front, so I can't apply it over the wire.
This is the mod I'm talking about:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/joycon-mod-using-eject-button-as-switch.508772/
Look through the other posts in the thread and you'll see people suggesting to use a metal latch to make the mod easier/more long lasting.

 

[Kallim]

The latches that hold the JoyCons in place are made of plastic, those parts get worn out from normal use, and get chipped if the Switch is dropped even if it's in a case (ask me how I know) and if they are chipped the latch no longer works and you can just push on them and they come right off, without holding the button on the back. If they are just worn out and chipped they might not come off but they might lose contact with the pins and get disconnected during gameplay because of how you're holding it, which can be a big annoyance.

That problem is easily solvable though, online such as on eBay or AliExpress you can buy metal latches that replace the plastic ones, they won't chip or wear out easily and the JoyCons should stay in place securely.

Edit:
If you have soldering tools, you can solder one end of a (very thin, as space is cramped) wire to pin 10 and wrap it around the screw that holds the little metal piece in place. Solder another wire to pin 1 and the metal latch. Now when you push the latch release button in it makes contact with the little metal piece bridging the contacts on pin 1 and 10. That's one way (and the best way IMO) to do a jig modded JoyCon. Since you don't need to bring a magnet with you always.
You don't need a metal latch to do that mod but I found it being very difficult to attach the wire to the plastic latch with glue or tape as it's so small and the wire itself has to be making contact with the metal piece in that case. Copper tape sounded like a good idea but it won't even stick to it properly, there's just not enough surface area to stick to. And my copper tape doesn't have conductive adhesive so the back side doesn't conduct to the front, so I can't apply it over the wire.
This is the mod I'm talking about:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/joycon-mod-using-eject-button-as-switch.508772/
Look through the other posts in the thread and you'll see people suggesting to use a metal latch to make the mod easier/more long lasting.

Which rails and latches did you replace the joycon ones or tablet ones. They sell both. I think I'd rather open up the joycon. Do the ribbon cables just push in?

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Which rails and latches did you replace the joycon ones or tablet ones. They sell both. I think I'd rather open up the joycon. Do the ribbon cables just push in?

It's for the JoyCons. The Switch side rails are already metal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402836256847
This is the type I bought (2 pairs, with screwdrivers included)
The ribbon cables have a small plastic latch that you flip up. Note that one of the connectors on the JoyCon is different from the others. The plastic latch is on the opposite side compared to the other ones. I don't think the connectors have any latches that push out from the sides which is another common type of ribbon connector in electronics. Just look for a bit that looks like it flips up and use something thin like pointy tweezers or even a small flathead screwdriver.
The battery connector flips up to unplug. You can use something thin/pointy to fit into a tiny groove underneath between where the wires come out, give it a push up and it should release. But you don't need to unplug it and I find it easiest to leave it plugged in as only something needle thin will fit into the groove and I didn't want to pull on the cable to unplug it, and only unplug the ribbon cables that are necessary to unplug as they can be hard to get back in. Especially on the right JoyCon, one of the ribbon cables (that comes from the battery tray, IIRC it was for the shoulder button) is very short, so has to be plugged in underneath the battery tray while holding the battery tray kind of in place and using tweezers to try and maneuver it in place through the crack between the PCB and battery tray, I did that once and it took me at least 30 min to get it in, so I'd just leave it connected. You don't really need to disconnect anything other than the 2 ribbon cables that go to the side rail and those are easy to get in and out.
Check a YouTube video for how to disassemble the JoyCons, it can be helpful.

 

[gamesquest1]

my go to fix for the loose fitting joy con rails is a little shim of card in between where they connect, even with normal use the little plastic clip at the bottom ends up not springing back into place quite right but it does seem to be a lot more common with the use if rcm jigs especially ill fitting jigs


a thin piece of card in where I drew the red line will give much better joy con recognition, you can also just bend it back, but it will start disconnecting randomly again after a little while

 

[hippy dave]

my go to fix for the loose fitting joy con rails is a little shim of card in between where they connect, even with normal use the little plastic clip at the bottom ends up not springing back into place quite right but it does seem to be a lot more common with the use if rcm jigs especially ill fitting jigs
View attachment 276337

a thin piece of card in where I drew the red line will give much better joy con recognition, you can also just bend it back, but it will start disconnecting randomly again after a little while

My left joy-con still disconnects occasionally even with the metal latch, so I might try this sometime, thanks for the tip

 

[Kallim]

I was looking at a different kit at first which was the whole rail. I've bought the one you suggested expect a different seller as I'm in the UK. Looks simple enough tbh (famous last words I'll probably be buying new joycons ).

I take it everyone knows about the drift fix with the piece of card?? I'm not actually suffering from drift but I may as well so this at the same time.

Thanks for your help. I'm happy with this.

 

[Kallim]

more common with the use if rcm jigs especially ill fitting jigs

Mine seems to fit ok. I've actually got 2 the first one I used with my laptop (when I first hombrewed the switch) and one which clips into the back of my RCM loader. They're identical though. They're red and not really much else to say about them... But I do wonder sometimes if different ones give more longevity.... You don't tend to see a lot of jig reviews .

 

[Rasa39]

Yep found one on eBay £90 (I could probably buy the tablet part for that). To be fair it was a reed switch mod but still mega bucks for what it is.

Haha figured as much, I bought some kynar wire and a handfull of reed switch and magnets for about £5 back when I did mine, which is more than I needed but like usual it was cheaper than buying just 1 reed switch (and if I cracked one I had some backups, since it was my first time adding something into the joycon housing). Arguably I didn't need wire as I could have just bent the reed switch better (assuming it doesn't crack) and soldered it directly, but I wanted some flexibility which the wire gave me.

At least with scummy people selling hacked handhelds loaded up with games they installed with freeshop or pkgi for stupid high prices, people who don't know any better are technically getting some value for their money, albeit in a illegal way they might not be aware of.

But that price for a reed switch mod, shit that should be just as illegal imo. And you know they probably do a terrible job, I bet they just press the wires down and use tape or hot glue instead of buying solder or an iron so you get that top quality service and reliability for your money.

Also about joycons disconnecting, I think it just happens over time and actually might be an issue with the rail on the switch unit rather than the controller sometimes. I say that because I barely take my joycons off unless I'm fixing drift for the hundredth time, and my left joycon will randomly switch to wireless even though I have the metal latch and a case over the whole console. It happens for like a second and will reconnect directly right after, and also happens with my spare, much less used left joycon too.

Maybe old granny Erista is starting to show her age.

 

[gamesquest1]

My left joy-con still disconnects occasionally even with the metal latch, so I might try this sometime, thanks for the tip

yeah I have fixed quite a few switches and this appears to be a fairly common issue on either joy con rail so its not just a rcm jig issue, but more a design flaw/general wear and tear, that little bit on the rail actually moves on a small hinge eventually it ends up pressed hard against the metal making the connection between the joy con and the connectors ever so slightly loose fitting so you will get the occasional joy con disconnected pop up while playing in handheld mode, I did use to replace the rails but it was additional cost that could be avoided with just a little bit of card, and I have had mine in my switch for a few years now and never had an issue, granted my switch was probably a very bad example as I was making and testing hundreds of rcm jigs when the exploit first released and a few of those jigs were slightly too big and tight fitting resulting in my own rail becoming very temperamental, PS. when you insert the card you can pop in the little gap on the metal rail to make it easier to insert the card between the connector and the metal rail, you could probably get a similar result just giving the rail a little bump on the slit so its the metal pushing the connector back into the correct position if you don't want a little piece of card in there. personally I just use a little piece of black craft card so its barely noticeable unless you're looking for it

Mine seems to fit ok. I've actually got 2 the first one I used with my laptop (when I first hombrewed the switch) and one which clips into the back of my RCM loader. They're identical though. They're red and not really much else to say about them... But I do wonder sometimes if different ones give more longevity.... You don't tend to see a lot of jig reviews .

yeah the properly manufactured jigs you get with the rcm loader should be pretty safe, but as mentioned above its a fault that can develop just through normal use of the switch over time

 

[hippy dave]

yeah I have fixed quite a few switches and this appears to be a fairly common issue on either joy con rail so its not just a rcm jig issue, but more a design flaw/general wear and tear, that little bit on the rail actually moves on a small hinge eventually it ends up pressed hard against the metal making the connection between the joy con and the connectors ever so slightly loose fitting so you will get the occasional joy con disconnected pop up while playing in handheld mode, I did use to replace the rails but it was additional cost that could be avoided with just a little bit of card, and I have had mine in my switch for a few years now and never had an issue, granted my switch was probably a very bad example as I was making and testing hundreds of rcm jigs when the exploit first released and a few of those jigs were slightly too big and tight fitting resulting in my own rail becoming very temperamental, PS. when you insert the card you can pop in the little gap on the metal rail to make it easier to insert the card between the connector and the metal rail, you could probably get a similar result just giving the rail a little bump on the slit so its the metal pushing the connector back into the correct position if you don't want a little piece of card in there. personally I just use a little piece of black craft card so its barely noticeable unless you're looking for it

More great info, thanks!

 

[Kallim]

I'm not sure how many people in the thread use Lakka (for those that don't it's like a reproach os you boot from heckate) but it's a really good test for if your joycon. If it disconnects it tells you at the bottom (pretty much straight away). The switch OS/HOS can take a while to pick it up, so your not always sure if you were just slow to react.

At the moment I'm still waiting for the kit (and I'll do the card trick on both the joycon pins and the thumb sticks when it arrives). But it did discinnect it a few times playing Pac-mainia.