Hardware (question) Need voltage from motherboard

[guily6669]

Hi there,

I still don't own a PS5, but I would like to mod the PS5 Digital when I get my hands on it.

Does anyone know where to get safe +5, +12 Volts and ground from the motherboard after turning ON the console? (Must be OFF after turning console OFF)

Thank You
guily

 

[Hayato213]

Why void your warranty by messing around with it when you don't know what you are doing? what you try to achieve out of it?

 

[FAST6191]

Why void your warranty by messing around with it when you don't know what you are doing? what you try to achieve out of it?

You don't necessarily void the warranty (the onus is generally on the company denying the warranty to prove your actions contributed to it), though most companies will try to tell you it does even if that is technically not the law.

That said as the OP did not include "or a place to attach a transistor to turn on devices on always powered rails" I would agree with the general sentiment. There are also devices that will sit on the power in and when that is drawing so many (milli)amps will in turn switch on others.

As it stands. I don't think we have seen a service manual and nobody has really gone around and probed points or drawn up a diagram/removed components and taken pictures. The usual suspects for somewhere to borrow some power from are
1) Directly after regulation. Or maybe before if you want to provide your own regulation and/or noise smoothing, and also help dodge any regulation that is always/already at the limit in the base device.
2) Anything designed to handle noisy electromechanicals with potential for stall and inrush issues. Less common these days but optical drives (motors and sometimes linear actuators), cooling fans and maybe hard drives (though internal solid state does change the game a bit there)
3) Something that the user themselves might overload (while it might say 5V500mA for some USB stuff then often it is more, though also often it is not and drawing too much more might drag down the voltage and/or burn something out).

Anything extra tends to come from anything designed over spec or will be unused -- if a company is doing deals on transformers with two 5V coils of significant current capacity then I might have an isolated one do something small with device management. Doubt Sony did this though or had some high capacity transformers left over from PS4 production or some failed whatever else it is they do but I have been surprised in the past. Unused... how many N64s do you think used the N64DD and expansion stuff on the bottom? Is there something like this for the PS5? Doubtful from what I have seen as most companies seemed to have just about learned about expansion devices, or have shuffled that over to peripherals.

I am not sure what you want 5V and 12V for, though usual guesses are audio amp, fancy LEDs, not having to externally power an external hard drive and extra cooling of some form. Some of those do have their own concerns additionally to just mere current and voltage delivery -- don't be putting some noisy fan on your nice audio circuit for instance.

 

[Hayato213]

lol @Foxi4 what you talking about, the thread you closed came from here because someone moved the whole conversation between me and Fast6191. I didn't created that eof thread so I can request it to be closed, point given don't say that I created an eof thread when I didn't.

 

[guily6669]

EDIT: Please stay on topic, also I accept opinions

 

[Foxi4]

lol @Foxi4 what you talking about, the thread you closed came from here because someone moved the whole conversation between me and Fast6191. I didn't created that eof thread so I can request it to be closed, point given don't say that I created an eof thread when I didn't.

You started an argument that you couldn't finish, and you're starting another one now. It was moved to the EOF because it's EOF material. It is not our job to clean up spaghetti spills made by users - if you started a fight and now you're a bit embarrassed by it, own it.

 

[Hayato213]

You started an argument that you couldn't finish, and you're starting another one now. It was moved to the EOF because it's EOF material.

What you talking about I didn't started an eof thread, so why am tagged as op then? then why didn't you guys leave it in this thread, who said I was scared to argue.

 

[guily6669]

I will wait for a diagram then, but if anyone know, I really would love to know.

I plan to do similar to my old Xbox 360 back in the day which I soldered PC molex Power cables, used a custom designed fan for it with better airflow and more silent, then I added a intake fan on the side which draw the ambient temp in the fan, then a small fan from the inside with a custom made tunnel so it pushes only from the smaller GPU cooler with maximum pressure.

Though I went further on the 360 with a clear case painted in black, added a UV neon and painted a few lines inside with UV reactive green color and added the ON\OFF button to the rear of the console...

I also put memory coolers on any big chip inside including all the memories and though the X360 is a Falcon, it still works and never gave ROD (also used MX-2, then MX-3 and then replaced with the Artic MX-4 over the years).


With PS5, I'm planing first to cut the backplate squares\oval shapes where it sits on the memories and any other bigger chips and instead use full copper small memory coolers, then add a small blue screen fan controller with all temps monitoring for SOC, RAM and maybe storage so I need a safe place to solder the power cables from the motherboard. Then I might add a custom cooling solution still thinking about it, maybe just do a few holes, a custom tunnel (4 maximum pressure) then to a cut part of the backplate for maximum cooling of the VRM, memories and whatever are the chips in there...

Memories on PS5 are pretty bad running at around 95Cº, way out of spec for GDDR6...

EDIT: I still don't know is about space since I need it in my hands first, cant judge by the disassembly videos.

 

[Foxi4]

What you talking about I didn't started an eof thread, so why am tagged as op then? then why didn't you guys leave it in this thread, who said I was scared to argue.

You seem to want it deleted out of existence, so the conclusion is pretty obvious. Quit while you're ahead.

 

[Hayato213]

You seem to want it deleted out of existence, so the conclusion is pretty obvious. Quit while you're ahead.

lol I request the thread to be close since I never created the one in the eof , I mean I would fine if he never moved the conversation out of this thread, beside he quote my post first, he wanted to argue.

 

[Foxi4]

Hi there,

I still don't own a PS5, but I would like to mod the PS5 Digital when I get my hands on it.

Does anyone know where to get safe +5, +12 Volts and ground from the motherboard after turning ON the console? (Must be OFF after turning console OFF)

Thank You
guily

To actually answer the question of this thread, you don't need to grab voltages off the motherboard, you can hook directly into the PSU's +12v line while the +5v line can be grabbed from any USB port. The +12v line is 31A peak, plenty of power to go around.

 

[Tom Bombadildo]

From the digital, you should be able to safely pull 12v, 5v, and gnd all from the disc drive's pins. I don't have any fancy diagram, but these were tested with a multimeter and should be correct:

And if you want to confirm yourself, whenever you get a PS5 you can double check the voltages with a multimeter, but these should be correct.

 

[Foxi4]

lol I request the thread to be close since I never created the one in the eof , I mean I would fine if he never moved the conversation out of this thread, beside he quote my post first, he wanted to argue.

He was also correct. Legally speaking any and all warranty void stickers are not legally binding and it is encumbent on Sony to determine the fault in the hardware and what caused it. You are correct when you say that most times such systems get rejected as tampered with, however you can in fact pursue your right to repair in many jurisdictions, you're entitled to poke around in it in the same way as a car owner is entitled to pop the hood open.

 

[guily6669]

To actually answer the question of this thread, you don't need to grab voltages off the motherboard, you can hook directly into the PSU's +12v line while the +5v line can be grabbed from any USB port. The +12v line is 31A peak, plenty of power to go around.

But isn't the PSU +12 line always ON while the console's OFF? Don't want to add any extra stuff.

Also I don't like messing with the USB ports power.

I found this from internet from the drive:

Might be my answer, hope the Digital PS5 has the pads with voltage flowing too.

From the digital, you should be able to safely pull 12v, 5v, and gnd all from the disc drive's pins. I don't have any fancy diagram, but these were tested with a multimeter and should be correct:


And if you want to confirm yourself, whenever you get a PS5 you can double check the voltages with a multimeter, but these should be correct.

Yep found it at almost the same time, thank you. Will definitely check when I get it with my multimeter.

 

[FAST6191]

I will wait for a diagram then, but if anyone know, I really would love to know.

I plan to do similar to my old Xbox 360 back in the day which I soldered PC molex Power cables, used a custom designed fan for it with better airflow and more silent, then I added a intake fan on the side which draw the ambient temp in the fan, then a small fan from the inside with a custom made tunnel so it pushes only from the smaller GPU cooler with maximum pressure.

Though I went further on the 360 with a clear case painted in black, added a UV neon and painted a few lines inside with UV reactive green color and added the ON\OFF button to the rear of the console...

I also put memory coolers on any big chip inside including all the memories and though the X360 is a Falcon, it still works and never gave ROD (also used MX-2, then MX-3 and then replaced with the Artic MX-4 over the years).


With PS5, I'm planing first to cut the backplate squares\oval shapes where it sits on the memories and any other bigger chips and instead use full copper small memory coolers, then add a small blue screen fan controller with all temps monitoring for SOC, RAM and maybe storage so I need a safe place to solder the power cables from the motherboard. Then I might add a custom cooling solution still thinking about it, maybe just do a few holes, a custom tunnel (4 maximum pressure) then to a cut part of the backplate for maximum cooling of the VRM, memories and whatever are the chips in there...

Memories on PS5 are pretty bad running at around 95Cº, way out of spec for GDDR6...

You might be waiting a while for a properly thought out diagram, indeed I would probably place more money on Sony doing something with returned/newer revision PS5s that people copy for this.

Are there no USB powered fans these days worth considering? Equally many of the molex connector using fans I have played with in computers over the years only use the one supply line.

I would also say if you are good enough to do all that for something then you can happily sit there and probe around the board for choice voltages, or find where the power comes in and determine whether the post regulation stuff can handle your additional load and noise or whether tapping it before regulation happens (thus only stressing the main supply which is likely way over what is needed) and maybe considering whether you need your own regulation (basic computer fan motors don't necessarily care if they have the cleanest signal), or find somewhere that is powered on during operation that you can stick a transistor that in turn powers your stuff connected to always on/even powered during standby rails that do provide all the power you need without worrying anything else. Indeed that is all anybody that does make the likes of the 360 fan mods will have done -- nice service manuals listing component locations, voltage/current/noise tolerances and whatnot tend to come rather later in most console lifetimes, if at all (generally some will be leaked by the service locations, assuming there are any of merit outside the main company HQ, and some will be leaks of general documents).

 

[Foxi4]

From the digital, you should be able to safely pull 12v, 5v, and gnd all from the disc drive's pins. I don't have any fancy diagram, but these were tested with a multimeter and should be correct:

And if you want to confirm yourself, whenever you get a PS5 you can double check the voltages with a multimeter, but these should be correct.

This is a good spot for 5v, I was unsure if the digital had the header pads on the board - since it seems that it does, there's no need to mess around with the USB ports. For 12v I'd still grab it directly from the PSU pins in case the disc drive line is somehow current-limited.

But isn't the PSU +12 line always ON while the console's OFF? Don't want to add any extra stuff.

Also I don't like messing with the USB ports power.

I found this from internet from the drive:

Might be my answer, hope the Digital PS5 has the pads with voltage flowing too.


Yep found it at almost the same time, thank you. Will definitely check when I get it with my multimeter.

That's a good argument against, it really depends on what you want to power with the 12v. If it's an extra PWM fan, it wouldn't run regardless if you don't supply a PWM signal. If you do want it to only be active when the console is on, at a static 12v, go for the disc drive pads - it's convenient. Just don't overload it, stick to low amperage, not exceeding whatever the drive draws (Bluray drives tend to peak at 25-30W, which is plenty).

 

[Tom Bombadildo]

This is a good spot for 5v, I was unsure if the digital had the header on the board - since it seems that it does, there's no need to mess around with the USB ports. For 12v I'd still grab it directly from the PSU pins in case the disc drive line is somehow current-limited.

The digital doesn't have the header on board, but the pads are of course there and you should still be able to pull from them. I just used the disc mobo image from iFixIt cuz it's the only high res one I could find quickly lol.

 

[Foxi4]

The digital doesn't have the header on board, but the pads are of course there and you should still be able to pull from them. I just used the disc mobo image from iFixIt cuz it's the only high res one I could find quickly lol.

Sensible, good info! Corrected my post to reflect the lack of a physical header.

 

[guily6669]

To actually answer the question of this thread, you don't need to grab voltages off the motherboard, you can hook directly into the PSU's +12v line while the +5v line can be grabbed from any USB port. The +12v line is 31A peak, plenty of power to go around.

This is a good spot for 5v, I was unsure if the digital had the header pads on the board - since it seems that it does, there's no need to mess around with the USB ports. For 12v I'd still grab it directly from the PSU pins in case the disc drive line is somehow current-limited.

That's a good argument against, it really depends on what you want to power with the 12v. If it's an extra PWM fan, it wouldn't run regardless if you don't supply a PWM signal. If you do want it to only be active when the console is on, at a static 12v, go for the disc drive pads - it's convenient. Just don't overload it, stick to low amperage, not exceeding whatever the drive draws (Bluray drives tend to peak at 25-30W, which is plenty).

Thanks, that's pretty much enough for 1 extra fan and fan controller with all temps monitoring...

The fan controller already sends the PWM signal manually or automatically with temps...

1st part will be the following:

 

[Foxi4]

Thanks, that's pretty much enough for 1 extra fan and fan controller with all temps monitoring...

The fan controller already sends the PWM signal manually or automatically with temps...

1st part will be the following:
View attachment 262942

In all fairness, you don't need to use a separate fan controller - you can skip the extra PCB by just piggy backing on the existing main fan signal. I'd only add a controller if I intended to use an RGB fan or I was setting up two separate cooling zones, one for the ALU and one for the memory.

Regarding your choice of heatsinks, the copper Pi sinks are large and thick with little surface area, plus they're quite heavy, so using thermal tape could be hit and miss unless you're planning to use a proper adhesive. You're better off with normal alu heatsinks - you'll get similar results with much lower weight, those will stick on tape just fine. The temps *might* be better initially because copper has higher thermal mass than aluminium, so it takes longer to reach equilibrium, but they have very few shallow fins, so they're not great at dissipating the heat they store, at least on paper. If your aim is active cooling of the memory, you'll want something that actually gets good airflow across the fins.

Copper "Pi" heatsink, it's a thick and heavy boy.

Gold-colored aluminium heatsink - same dimensions, better airflow, lower weight. These are the ones I used personally in my PS4 mods before, can recommend. They're color-matching with copper, nobody will know that you cheated and you'll save a buck.