Hardware 2DS - Metal shield over cpu critical?

TheGlow

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A few months ago my daughter had mentioned her 2DS had a rattling noise and sometimes wouldn't power on at all. So for Xmas I got her a new 3DS. So I was playing on the 2DS now and noticed sometimes squeezing the left side or even pressing down on the dpad would mute the audio. I knew this had to be a short. So I opened it up and the metal shield covering the CPU was off and floating around in there.
I have some soldering experience so I can see where it was connected but it doesnt look like it was soldered correctly and maybe just used a cheap glue.
So usually stuff is there for a reason. Should I worry about replacing it? just a little kray-z glue on those spots?
 

Xenon Hacks

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A few months ago my daughter had mentioned her 2DS had a rattling noise and sometimes wouldn't power on at all. So for Xmas I got her a new 3DS. So I was playing on the 2DS now and noticed sometimes squeezing the left side or even pressing down on the dpad would mute the audio. I knew this had to be a short. So I opened it up and the metal shield covering the CPU was off and floating around in there.
I have some soldering experience so I can see where it was connected but it doesnt look like it was soldered correctly and maybe just used a cheap glue.
So usually stuff is there for a reason. Should I worry about replacing it? just a little kray-z glue on those spots?
That should be fine I dont think crazy glue has any corrosives but if it's a similar shield to the PSP you might wanna keep it even though it's not needed.
 

TheGlow

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I slapped it back in. My luck it was causing all sorts of problems. I doubt 3 player local triforce heroes should be constantly lagging and disconnecting when all 3 players are sitting 10ft from the router.
It had about 5 or 6 points to touch the mobo so I just picked 3 around the sides. Ill test it more later. It was from a bad batch where the bottom screen often was stuck pressed in. I had to put a layer of electrical tape between the case and screen to pad it out, and leave some screws semi loose. I made them all tight now and it passed calibration, but who knows.
 

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