Hacking SWITCH NOOB PARADISE - Ask questions here

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Does anyone know where does tinfoil have the hekate payload and if it can be updated? (hope it's not hard coded into the app:angry:)

It keep screwing my hekate, I updated to 6.01 but after a few days I sent the payload which I even updated on my phone and said I had old NYX, I realized Tinfoil keep installing Hekate 5.9 if I use it's payload feature to go into hekate:whip:

Don't install payload from tinfoil and you should be fine.
 
Don't install payload from tinfoil and you should be fine.
I know, but still like Tinfoil as a All-in-One and like to use it to go into hekate B-)

Also I have a question regarding OC if anyone knows, OC suite now supports Erista out-of-the-box and their online config for the "kip." reports default value of 1257 max voltage for the Erista CPU, but how does that voltage works, is it like the max voltage for full tegra X1 specs of 1785mhz or when going above it? (I'm thinking to change to the min value of 1.1V and just test on games at 1785mhz to see if I get any crash and go smaller increases until no crashes if I get any).
 
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I know, but still like Tinfoil as a All-in-One and like to use it to go into hekate B-)

Also I have a question regarding OC if anyone knows, OC suite now supports Erista out-of-the-box and their online config for the "kip." reports default value of 1257 max voltage for the Erista CPU, but how does that voltage works, is it like the max voltage for full tegra X1 specs of 1785mhz or when going above it? (I'm thinking to change to the min value of 1.1V and just test on games at 1785mhz to see if I get any crash and go smaller increases until no crashes if I get any).

I don't really do overclock so can't help you on that, as for hekate payload, you can either manually update it, use AIO updater to update the payload. In tinfoil case it seem like it is giving you outdated payload.
 
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I know, but still like Tinfoil as a All-in-One and like to use it to go into hekate B-)

Also I have a question regarding OC if anyone knows, OC suite now supports Erista out-of-the-box and their online config for the "kip." reports default value of 1257 max voltage for the Erista CPU, but how does that voltage works, is it like the max voltage for full tegra X1 specs of 1785mhz or when going above it? (I'm thinking to change to the min value of 1.1V and just test on games at 1785mhz to see if I get any crash and go smaller increases until no crashes if I get any).
let me know after you test it :D was wondering about the same things after checking online config :D
 
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I don't really do overclock so can't help you on that, as for hekate payload, you can either manually update it, use AIO updater to update the payload. In tinfoil case it seem like it is giving you outdated payload.
I manually updated hekate, it's just tinfoil keep installing 5.9 if I use it, going trough their files I can't find any payload, hope we can manually update the hekate in it instead of having to wait for them to release a new tinfoil, it sucks if it's hard coded into the tinfoil app.

Will probably simply rename the hekate payload to reboot_payload on atmosphere and call it a day and just never use tinfoil payload anymore (Unless there's a way to add custom payloads into tinfoil payloads launcher to put the new Hekate 6.0.1...):hateit:
let me know after you test it was wondering about the same things after checking online config
Do you\anyone know how can I read the CPU voltage in teslamenu overlay???????? to see if they even apply. (I'm tired of searching and can't find any info:angry:).

I'm also new to OC cause I barely used my switch and only changed from SX OS to atmosphere in less than a month or so.

EDIT: I'm currently testing Erista CPU voltage max 1100 (1.1v) instead of default 1257 on the OC suite "loader.KIP"...

Not getting any results.:( So far have been more than 50min using memtesterNX with stress Dram option which put's all 3 gaming cores at 100%. CPU is set to 1785mhz and ram at 1862mhz, no crashes yet.

I only conclude (one of the following):

1-
1.1 V is enough for max Switch Tegra X1 clocks factory specs, CPU at 1785mhz (Erista);

2- The max Erista CPU voltage from current latest OC suite might only apply to actual OC over tegra X1 specs on the switch, above 1785mhz that I'm not going to bother testing;

3- Maybe the voltage is not even applying\working;

4- Maybe it needs way more time to crash or perhaps crash in other app\game...

ps: Until I know how to read the current voltage in use by the CPU in the Switch this seems pointless sadly :whip: ...
 
Last edited by guily6669,
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Just updated the cheats for All in One Switch Updater. I'm confused about how to activate the cheats since some don't appear in Tinfoil. Where would the option be to activate certain cheat for AIO switch updater? Thanks.
 
Just updated the cheats for All in One Switch Updater. I'm confused about how to activate the cheats since some don't appear in Tinfoil. Where would the option be to activate certain cheat for AIO switch updater? Thanks.
I never used it but I think after you download the cheats for "X" game you then use Edizon to enable\disable them and works best with teslamenu + Edizon overlay.

Tinfoil cheats I think it's separate, they are built-in into tinfoil app already.

You should also change the atmosphere settings file in atmosphere\config_templates\system_settings.ini (file)
Code:
dmnt_cheats_enabled_by_default = u8!0x1 line to dmnt_cheats_enabled_by_default = u8!0x0
(this is so that atmosphere doesn't load the cheats when opening the game automatically).

Working Edizon overlay link:

Cheats tutorial: https://www.cfwaifu.com/edizon-cheats/ (don't use Edizon overlay "OvlEdiZon.ovl"from them, use the one from the link above posted by Binkinator. On the tutorial Edizon link use only the ".nro" file and also go to it's main project on the Edizon github cause on that tutorial they link a very old Edizon, the latest is the following: https://github.com/WerWolv/EdiZon/releases/tag/v3.1.0).

Note: Also in that tutorial you don't use the switch-cheats-updater they have listed, but rather the All-in-one Switch updater that you currently use...
 
Last edited by guily6669,
I manually updated hekate, it's just tinfoil keep installing 5.9 if I use it, going trough their files I can't find any payload, hope we can manually update the hekate in it instead of having to wait for them to release a new tinfoil, it sucks if it's hard coded into the tinfoil app.

Will probably simply rename the hekate payload to reboot_payload on atmosphere and call it a day and just never use tinfoil payload anymore (Unless there's a way to add custom payloads into tinfoil payloads launcher to put the new Hekate 6.0.1...):hateit:

Do you\anyone know how can I read the CPU voltage in teslamenu overlay???????? to see if they even apply. (I'm tired of searching and can't find any info:angry:).

I'm also new to OC cause I barely used my switch and only changed from SX OS to atmosphere in less than a month or so.

EDIT: I'm currently testing Erista CPU voltage max 1100 (1.1v) instead of default 1257 on the OC suite "loader.KIP"...

Not getting any results.:( So far have been more than 50min using memtesterNX with stress Dram option which put's all 3 gaming cores at 100%. CPU is set to 1785mhz and ram at 1862mhz, no crashes yet.

I only conclude (one of the following):

1-
1.1 V is enough for max Switch Tegra X1 clocks factory specs, CPU at 1785mhz (Erista);

2- The max Erista CPU voltage from current latest OC suite might only apply to actual OC over tegra X1 specs on the switch, above 1785mhz that I'm not going to bother testing;

3- Maybe the voltage is not even applying\working;

4- Maybe it needs way more time to crash or perhaps crash in other app\game...

ps: Until I know how to read the current voltage in use by the CPU in the Switch this seems pointless sadly :whip: ...
No idea mate i was fighting with my sd cards for over a month to find out that my problem was in
https://github.com/cathery/sys-ftpd/issues/23
and it is probably my emmc fault becouse if not Idk what it is :D (last thing to try besides that sys hb conflicting by itself with something)
But from my limited oc experience outside the switch if you are not sure if it is doing anything just put it lower and lower until it crushes or higher but lover is definitely safer: o? or not iam a noob don't listen to me :D!

edit: ahh i see it is as low as 1,1 to go so hmmm :D it doesn't work at all or it can be pushed much more on that voltage i guess?

edit2:Basic kip max clock is 1862400 so maybe try to crush it with 1.1 volatage on that clock :P ?
Max voltage is range: 1100 ≤ x ≤ 1400 from kip values and it says "Acceptable range" so you can try to go lower i guess? Buuut again dont listen to me :D.
 
Last edited by Lamcza,
I might try 1V at some point but going above 1785mhz on the CPU is not something I would care to use, I have mostly been using 1.5ghz to play games, above 1785mhz also need to activate the "allow unsafe frequencies" toggle in the overlay.

I'm almost sure the SOC can take it easily but at some point the Switch power delivery is not unlimited so to keep it within some <<safety>> specs you will probably have to chose between GPU and CPU high OC to keep the other components safe, I mean at full tegra X1 Erista max clocks the Switch can already be using 20W which is already above its factory rated power and that's before going over unsafe frequencies on it (that's docked at 1785mhz on CPU, 921mhz on GPU and 1600mhz on the memories)...

In my opinion the stock Switch clocks specially portable are to see who's the craziest Devs that manage to make crazy big high visual games working ok and the OC is where the fun begins, it makes night to day difference in some games wether it's a huge increase in visuals portable or performance.

Ps: I really need someone to tell me how to read the actual voltage in use by the switch before testing more voltages cause they might not even be doing anything...
 
Last edited by guily6669,
Update the joycon firmware.

I didn't event know this was an option :blush:
And it perfectly worked, thanks a lot !

I have a joycon that stopped working a while ago and I think it is an hardware issue. The joycon works fine when attached to the switch. When detached it is detected by the switch for something like half a second, the first led on the side of the joycon lights on and off quickly and that's all :(

I initially thought this was a battery issue, but the battery status seems to be reported correctly to the switch and is visible. Also when I leave the joycon for a while, and try to synchronize it with the console again, the sync process works.

Any idea on this ?
 
I didn't event know this was an option :blush:
And it perfectly worked, thanks a lot !

I have a joycon that stopped working a while ago and I think it is an hardware issue. The joycon works fine when attached to the switch. When detached it is detected by the switch for something like half a second, the first led on the side of the joycon lights on and off quickly and that's all :(

I initially thought this was a battery issue, but the battery status seems to be reported correctly to the switch and is visible. Also when I leave the joycon for a while, and try to synchronize it with the console again, the sync process works.

Any idea on this ?
idk clean all controlers from switch and pair them again but by button not by rails maybe :o you can also try buy new batteries form amazon check if there is any difference and return if not.
 
I have no clue either, there's a version of the joy-cons that have antenna problems where you have to put some foam or upgrade the antenna but that doesn't seem like it.

Also years ago I modded my friend joy-con to add a button for the RCM and it never worked wirelessly anymore while I haven't touched anything at all and the antenna is properly connected, maybe the wires for the button are interfering with the signal.
 
I have no clue either, there's a version of the joy-cons that have antenna problems where you have to put some foam or upgrade the antenna but that doesn't seem like it.

Also years ago I modded my friend joy-con to add a button for the RCM and it never worked wirelessly anymore while I haven't touched anything at all and the antenna is properly connected, maybe the wires for the button are interfering with the signal.
iam new nob in here but i think i read somwhere that joy cons after some rcm mode can have some connection issues depends on what wires/pins you short.
 
I have the same exact pins on mine and I disconnected the battery before doing them and checked after soldering with perfect connection not touching the others.

The only difference is really the way the wires are inside and his button is a clicky one from a mouse shorted when clicking only and mine is a On\Off switch but somehow his controller just doesn't connect to the console after I modded it and I never touched anything at all, maybe it's just the crap antenna interference...

But he didn't care anyway since he never used them wireless cause he bought a cheap much better controller for docked.
 
I am trying to turn off autoRCM so that I can turn off and on my switch without the need of a computer. But, when I turn it off I will always boot into OFW and never into CFW. So I was wondering if there is a way so that I can boot into hekate without the need of a computer.
 
I have the same exact pins on mine and I disconnected the battery before doing them and checked after soldering with perfect connection not touching the others.

The only difference is really the way the wires are inside and his button is a clicky one from a mouse shorted when clicking only and mine is a On\Off switch but somehow his controller just doesn't connect to the console after I modded it and I never touched anything at all, maybe it's just the crap antenna interference...

But he didn't care anyway since he never used them wireless cause he bought a cheap much better controller for docked.
so his button is a clicky one maybe a "switch" is quacked or there is some dmg on the ribbon after soldering, they are pretty fragile. Try new joycone rail/ribbon to test it or not If he doesn't care : P
 
I am trying to turn off autoRCM so that I can turn off and on my switch without the need of a computer. But, when I turn it off I will always boot into OFW and never into CFW. So I was wondering if there is a way so that I can boot into hekate without the need of a computer.
That is not how the exploit works. You need to boot into RCM and send a payload via USB to launch Hekate. You can buy a dongle that can send the payloads instead of a computer or if you have a local repair shop, you can have them solder a modchip inside to do the job of sending payloads.
 
Im trying to hardwire the sd card module. My module doesnt have the capacitor, so would this pinout work?
sd port fix.jpg
sd module pinout 1.jpg
 
I'm wondering how to check if I'm blocking servers properly? I ask because when I launch the eshop on emunand I get this white screen error. But I've read about a lot of people getting a grey popup box instead. So I'm wondering what, if anything, I'm missing?View attachment 347449
Why worry about blocking servers when you could just delete your Wi-Fi settings? Can't connect to the eShop if you don't have Internet.
 
Why worry about blocking servers when you could just delete your Wi-Fi settings? Can't connect to the eShop if you don't have Internet.
Because if I delete my network settings I also can't access Tinfoil and such
Post automatically merged:

And also that doesn't at all answer my original question
 

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