I installed everything and double checked for shorts or any other damage, but everything seems fine. However when i turn on my console it just boots up normaly. No LED indicators except a bleak green and red lights. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the firmware cause im using Seeed RP2040. Tried reflashing it, but after reflashing i get bleak green and red light. Am i supposed to bridge the RGB connectors and if so where are they on the SEEEDs board?
Picofly AIO Thread
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Did you bridge the "detection" jumper for the Seed RP2040 as indicated in the guide? This way FW will know that you got this board, and not RP2040-Zero.
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Quick question before I commit to desolder the "extras". The instructions says to remove the buttons, USB socket and 3.3v regulator after flashing the FW on the pico. I believe this is done for clearance (besides the regulator perhaps), so my question is, can those be left on until the installation is confirmed working in case there are FW issues and the chip needs to be reflashed?
I'm glad that is the case, but I wonder now what's the point of removing the regulator at all. It's not like it'll help with any clearance like the buttons and the socket will. Unless I'm missing something.
Actually, the regulator is the tallest part on the bottom of the chip and will give you a little extra clearance.
It's also pointless once the USB port is removed, since the chip is supplied with 3.3V directly already.
It's also pointless once the USB port is removed, since the chip is supplied with 3.3V directly already.
what do you mean alignment is not good? do i move it forward? left or right(facing from the left)? does that white line need to disappear under the chip?
He meant when you look at the red and green arrow you can see the alignment is off.
cmd 492 clk 788
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you the white line should be perpendicular or align with the edge of the chip?
Exactly, the white line needs to be aligned with the eMMC, it should not go under the chip though (check my install below, the adapter is not the same, though you get the idea).
For re-aligning, you need to desolder both anchors, re-align everything and take a reading to ser if it changed.
When satisfied, just press the adapter gently under the chip with tweezers and solder the anchors. Take another reading.
For re-aligning, you need to desolder both anchors, re-align everything and take a reading to ser if it changed.
When satisfied, just press the adapter gently under the chip with tweezers and solder the anchors. Take another reading.
can you give me advice how to move the dat0 adapter? current reading is 798
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what reading should i get in my multimeter? im confused with it since its giving me whole number rather than decimals...
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I have another multimeter that displays the whole number, 798 is the same as 0.798V.
With the red probe on the GND and the black on the DAT0 point, you should get from 0.4 to 0.6 V. First re-align the adapter, it's not good yet.
does v1 lite and oled have the same dat0 value in multimeter? maybe i could compare my oled with my lite and v1 dat0 values...thank you for all the tips so far will work on it later...
No. 2.67 is the latest. The "Important Posts" in the other thread has this link to the latest firmware.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10090767
Yes. Just remove the ".pdf" extension after you download the files. They are really binary files but ".pdf" is added as a workaround so the files can be attached to the post. Note that the author of that post is the developer of the hack so it is the latest and greatest.
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