Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[mattytrog]

Well can't post it now. I've remove it fron the switch. Will order a new one. Thanks.

OK. My guess is that if you have cut the shielding, a sharp bit has gone through the insulation of a wire.

It takes nothing to pop them really!

 

[mooglazer]

For anyone interested, I've compiled a payload of RajNX 0.7.0's rajnx_ipl.bin. Hope this helps!

 

[Deleted User]

For anyone interested, I've compiled a payload of RajNX 0.7.0's rajnx_ipl.bin. Hope this helps!

Sweet. It's always good to have options. Gonna mess with ReiNX and RajNX.

 

[redmagejosh]

OK. My guess is that if you have cut the shielding, a sharp bit has gone through the insulation of a wire.

It takes nothing to pop them really!

Sounds about, right. Will report back in a couple days when I get my new trinket.

 

[MatinatorX]

I'm not sure I've ever done a soldering job without flux so that's a strange thing to not recommend. Good tools are essential too, as well as some quality 60/40 Pb solder.

I second this, omitting flux means your solder joints might not be clean and in some cases dirty welds can fail and wires can come loose. Always use flux when soldering! And clean the tip of your soldering iron with a wet sponge. A dirty tip is never a good thing.

For stuff like this I recommend liquid flux pens, much easier to use and the excess just dries up instead of caking on your PCB. I've used a bunch of them and keep coming back to the Yosker pens on eBay. $2 and they work great. Just don't breath the fumes, liquid flux is a bit more potent than paste.

 

[Deleted User]

I second this, omitting flux means your solder joints might not be clean and in some cases dirty welds can fail and wires can come loose. Always use flux when soldering! And clean the tip of your soldering iron with a wet sponge. A dirty tip is never a good thing.

For stuff like this I recommend liquid flux pens, much easier to use and the excess just dries up instead of caking on your PCB. I've used a bunch of them and keep coming back to the Yosker pens on eBay. $2 and they work great. Just don't breath the fumes, liquid flux is a bit more potent than paste.

After doing reballs for years the best flux i've used is kingbo hands down. Even better than Amtech as I had higher reball success with kingbo as it bonds better.

 

[mattytrog]

For anyone interested, I've compiled a payload of RajNX 0.7.0's rajnx_ipl.bin. Hope this helps!

Cheers!

Added to OP under "Bleeding Edge"

 

[mattytrog]

OK... I have added multiple payloads to the trinket. Still a work in progress.

Basically, short pin 1 to ground and it selects the next payload (blue LED telling you which payload you are on)

This might be useful for an external dongle, or maybe attach to vol- strap. So, pressing vol- would increase payload counter (next payload).

What do you think? Good or bad idea? I really don`t want to overcomplicate things... If anyone is interested, I might put a testing UF2 up.

 

[RahFah]

OK... I have added multiple payloads to the trinket. Still a work in progress.

Basically, short pin 1 to ground and it selects the next payload (blue LED telling you which payload you are on)

This might be useful for an external dongle, or maybe attach to vol- strap. So, pressing vol- would increase payload counter (next payload).

What do you think? Good or bad idea? I really don`t want to overcomplicate things... If anyone is interested, I might put a testing UF2 up.

This function for external dongle will be amazing!

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mooglazer]

Basically, short pin 1 to ground and it selects the next payload (blue LED telling you which payload you are on)
What do you think? Good or bad idea? I really don`t want to overcomplicate things... If anyone is interested, I might put a testing UF2 up.

This is extremely badass. Luckily I don't have an immediate need to boot multiple payloads (yet).. I've got a box full of micro pushbuttons calling my name though!

You're a monster!

Also, someone in another thread mentioned needing the RajNX 0.7.2 payload for what I'll assume is a trinket. I uploaded it there in case someone needs it (I'm using RajNX now).

 

[Pacote]

Rewired my console according to the first 1-4 AutoRCM method.

Working flawlessly.

The change of cap was interesting.
I wouldn’t necessarily say challenging.

However i can totally see people bridging/removing either one of the caps due to the location of the new solder point (cap).

Be sure to use THE PROPER amount of flux, good solder, a good soldering iron, and a GOOD STEADY hand to hold that iron.

Good luck gentlemen!

And cheers to you Matty

- Mikel Euskaldunak

Its way easier just soldering to the 2 resistors that already shorted above the caps

 

[mikeleuskaldunak]

..

 

[mattytrog]

Its coming... Only just woke up. 7am here.

You are limited to the amount of payloads by the size of the trinket storage.

In nutshell, it is going to work like this...

Probably best for method 3 or method 2 right now...
Always start on payload 1. Can`t do anything about that. So make it Hekate?
Touch pin 1 to ground... 2 flashes
and again... 3 flashes
and again... 4 flashes
press power to start the find tegra sequence.

Like I say I`m not the best coder, but getting there!

 

[jvv]

I have some questions regarding different methods.

1. Will I need to use the jig every time I boot the switch If I do not have autoRCM enabled (method 2,3)?
2. As far as I understood If I would like to save my battery I Should connect vol+ point right (method 3)?
3. In case you would like to update the firmware of the trinket could yo do it by using switch usb or you need to take the trinket out?

Thanks in advance

 

[mattytrog]

I have some questions regarding different methods.

1. Will I need to use the jig every time I boot the switch If I do not have autoRCM enabled (method 2,3)?
2. As far as I understood If I would like to save my battery I Should connect vol+ point right (method 3)?
3. In case you would like to update the firmware of the trinket could yo do it by using switch usb or you need to take the trinket out?

Thanks in advance

1. No you will not need the jig
2. Wrong. To save battery use method 1 or 2. Method 3, the trinket is powered constantly.
3. No. You get the trinket into bootloader mode when in Horizon home screen and update it from PC there.

 

[jvv]

Thanks for your quick reply.
I will use the method 2 as this will have dual boot solution and it will save my battery. An extra question. I could see that the resistor next to ON label is not removed in the picture (Trinket). Should I need to remove it?

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks for your quick reply.
I will use the method 2 as this will have dual boot solution and it will save my battery. An extra question. I could see that the resistor next to ON label is not removed in the picture (Trinket). Should I need to remove it?

Yes remove it. Will edit pic later

 

[jvv]

Perfect, I will proceed with method 2 If I will have any question I will ask again.

 

[popy]

Hey guys.

Have installed the trinket a few weeks ago with previous method 1 (4 wire).
It's working really good.

Standby -> trinket doesnt gets powered off -> more drain
Power off -> trinket gets powered off -> no drain

So here is my questions:

• Whats the difference between the two 3V solder points (old method 1 -> above cap the lower pin, new method 1 -> lower cap and above pin)?
• Do i'll need to update just the payload to make it dock compatible or is the changed 3V power point necessary for this?

Thx