Gaming PC Build Help

[clonesniper666]

I thought we had a Building PC thread stickied but I guess not.

I am currently planning to building my 1st PC for my own use, hopefully will have the funds in a month or 2. I was wondering if any one on here could look over my list and tell me if it will be a good build. I have already built a Pc for a friend but he ordered all the parts and I never saw them till h brought them over.

Spoiler

Parts List
Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131835
CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115091
Ram: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231424
HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339
SDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139950
DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135247
Graphic Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130810
Case/PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1046194

If any one has any suggestions feel free to give them. Also I want to keep the build under a $1000 and at the parts listed it is $938, but I am thinking of dropping the SSD and using an old 80GB HDD for the OS, making the price only $863.

 

[Lanlan]

Looks pretty good honestly. Only thing I could suggest is getting a 2500k instead.

 

[marcus134]

I am thinking of dropping the SSD and using an old 80GB HDD for the OS

Bad idea
1. older hdd are more prone to failure
2. The 1tb hdd you're purchasing will probably be faster.
if you drop the ssd, buy a black label hdd instead of a blue one.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16822136533

for the gpu, the 7870 would be a better purchase than the 660ti and it's cheaper
http://www.tomshardw...ew,3279-17.html

for the psu, you should stick to reputable brand as cheaper one tend not only to fry more easily/quickly but also kill some of the computer parts in the process.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817139028

Only thing I could suggest is getting a 2500k instead.

WUT? you know you can get a i5-3570k for 10$ more than the 2500k and gain support for pcie3 which is used by the gpu that are currently being released, in addition to faster ram support, lower tdp and slightly better cpu performance. But considering the fact that the op selected a budget business oriented mobo, I can assume that he won't try to overclock it and I can suggest to take the i5-3450.
http://www.tomshardw...ock,3106-4.html
Ivy bridge chipset feature comparison chart: http://en.wikipedia....Bridge_chipsets

 

[ILuvGames]

I'd drop the 660 ti as there are no games atm that will take full advantage of it's hardware. From the benchmarks i've seen using the currently available games, the card doesn't seem to be much faster than a 570 ti.

The Z77 range of Motherboards can have three PCIe x16 slots in an x8 / x4 / x4 configuration. AFAIK, the Z75 can only have up to two in an x8 / x8 configuration. I'd spend the extra for a Z77 board, but it's not my choice as you asked for recommendations.

M/B - Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H or an Asus P8Z77-V LX (I've seen four builds (equivalent price in dollars was 1600-1980) from two very reputable UK PC builders/Parts sellers using these boards) despite them both being $120 boards. (http://pcspecialist.co.uk/ and http://3xs.scan.co.uk/).
RAM - G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2X4GB) DDR3 1600 mhz (PC3 12800). Part number F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL.
Case - Antec 900 Ultimate Black or a Coolermaster 912 (a good value case at $59). Choosing cases is like choosing mice or keyboards though, it's mainly down to personal choice but both are a good combination between price and build quality.
CPU - Intel i5 3570k.
GFX Card - EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Classified Ultra.
HARD DRIVE - I've bought both a WD Raptor and a WD Caviar Black. They've both been good for me.
PSU - Corsair Builder Series CX 600 V2. Currently 59$ (down from 79$) on Amazon. It's #2 out of a hundred in their bestsellers rank for power supplies. I've had one for over a year and have been more than happy with it. I previously had an (at the time) much more expensive OCZ Gamextreme PSU. Like the Corsair, it had a three year warranty and it lasted about three years. When it failed (and I bought the Corsair) I didn't see the point in spending all that cash again on a more expensive one considering my original rig cost the equivalent (at the time) of about $3700 and I no longer had that kind of money. If you have a budget of around $90 dollars for a PSU, have a look at the 620w SeaSonic M12II.

Barring the difference in price between the WD Raptor and the Caviar Black, this build should be at about the price of your build.