Tutorial  Updated

NAND Dumping 2DS/3DS/3DS XL/N3DS/N3DS XL!

Hardmodding 3DS Family Systems


This is a tutorial for those who want to perform a NAND dump (or a "hardmod") of their 3DS/2DS/N3DS console(s).

This tutorial is mainly directed towards those who are new to the 3DS scene and want to dump their NAND to be able to easily restore later. This is for all of the 3DS models currently available: 3DS, 3DS XL, New 3DS, New 3DS XL, and 2DS. This hardmod is useful for a myriad of reasons, not limited to just having a backup of your system in case you brick it. For the purpose of brevity, I will refer to these systems as simply "3DS" from here on when I am actually referring to any of these consoles in general.

If you have been on the 3DS scene for a while, you have may heard the terms 'hardmod' or 'NAND Dump'. A NAND is a type of flash memory that is used, in the case of the 3DS, to store important information such as firmware. The firmware is retrieved from the NAND by the bootloader when the console is powered on. One question I get asked commonly is if a NAND dump from one system can be flashed onto another system. However, the NAND is encrypted with a key that is specific to each console. Therefore, this is not possible. Hardmodding your 3DS will add a level of protection: knowing that you can simply flash the NAND dump back onto your system if it ever gets bricked. I would advise keeping your NAND file someplace safe after dumping, such as a cloud service. You never know if/when you are going to need it, and if you ever get bricked and you do not have a NAND dump available, there is no going back. You have been warned.

Before we begin the tutorial, it is CRUCIAL that you know/have experience soldering. There are many videos on YouTube on how to solder, and I will link a few at the end of this guide. Soldering takes practice to learn and get the hang of, so don't just blindly jump into modding without a solid understanding of soldering, because most likely YOU WILL BREAK YOUR DEVICE

This is a compilation of information about hardmodding each 3DS system. The majority of the information below is a detailed explanation of how to install a hardmod based on the NAND pinout images that are on 3DBrew. I am by no means an expert on this topic and I am still learning the inner workings of it all. If you have any questions, please feel free to comment below and I will try answer them. To begin, here are some of the advantages and some of the disadvantages of a hardmod:

Advantages:
  • You will have a full backup of your 3DS firmware, so that you will be able to restore your NAND if you accidentally brick your 3DS during the downgrading process.
  • The tools are relatively inexpensive to perform the hardmod.
Disadvantages:
  • The hardmod may cause problems if you are not careful: It may even lead to bricking your device!
  • Solder splashes can be harmful as well: they may short circuit other things.
  • Soldering experience is required, even though this is very simple, make sure you are fully acquainted with soldering before even attempting to come anywhere near your 3DS with your soldering iron. A solid grasp of soldering techniques will greatly help you and make sure your 3DS does not become an expensive piece of trash.
Disclaimer: I am not to be held responsible if you end up breaking your device due to incorrect soldering or irresponsibility.

Now, for the tools:
  1. A soldering iron: One with a fine tip
  2. Solder: I use rosin core 60/40 solder. Do NOT use acid core, as this is corrosive to the motherboard and can screw things up.
  3. Tinning Flux
  4. Phillips #000 screwdriver or JIS #000: Phillips #000 or JIS #000 screwdrivers are recommended. You can also use Phillips #00 or JIS #00, but you may strip the screws if you are not careful.
  5. win32diskimager program on your computer
  6. Wires: I personally recommend you use these wires, but if you dont want them, you can just use wires ripped out from earbuds and then buy seperate butt connectors for them. All you need to do is to solder four wires onto the male end of the connector.
  7. microSD Card Adapter
  8. **microSD Card Reader: NOTE: ONLY CERTAIN TYPES OF READERS WILL WORK. MORE INFORMATION ON THIS BELOW.
  9. Hot Glue Gun/ Super glue: This is necessary if you plan on making this a permanent mod on your 3DS. This is used to glue on the butt connector of the wire.
  10. Tweezers
  11. A brain
Note: I do not own the following images of the 3DS consoles in the tutorials below, they belong to their respective owners.


STEPS FOR OLD 3DS XL CONSOLE:
IMPORTANT NOTE:
There are only certain SD card readers confirmed working with this mod for 3DS XL:


Anker® USB 3.0 (68UNMCRD-B2U) : Realtek RTS5306
TekRepublic TUC-300 : Realtek RTS5307
SanDisk SDDR-121-A11M : GL827
Transcend P8 TS-RDP8K : ALCOR AU6476 (Thank you Gamerquest1 and zchtoy)
Anker® USB 3.0 4-Slot Card Reader (A7612) : RT5301 (Ava)

(The "Anker" readers have been highly tested by me and others who have performed a hardmod. They are confirmed to work with the Old 3DS. Therefore, the "Anker" readers are best recommended to work with this hardmod)
  1. Remove all peripherals from the console and store them someplace safe
  2. Flip the console over and unscrew the two screws on top securing the back plate. Note: These screws do not come off completely; they remain attached to the back plate. Remove the back plate by hinging it outward
    uiGfsMWIvvMi1Gxg.medium
  3. Once the back plate is removed, you need to remove the 3DS XL battery
    NDaL1FwfgpipXktP.huge
  4. Now remove the six screws that hold the back cover in place. Keep these somewhere safe.
    TCb3gX1x3AIQipCO.huge
  5. Once all the screws are removed, the 3DS XL PCB will be exposed. DO NOT FORCEFULLY FLIP THE COVER OPEN. There are still two ribbon cables attached to the motherboard. Gently flip the back cover over and detach the ribbon cables using your fingernail. Place the back cover aside.
  6. Once you have done that, get your wires and all the other materials you need to begin soldering. You will be working near the NAND: There are 4 main contacts that you will be soldering to. The top one is the DAT0 (Data Zero), the next one is CMD, and the next one is CLK (Clock). Over to the left, you will see some solder: This can serve as GND (Ground). The NAND chip in the following picture has been removed to see the points easier. You can find these points near the chip to the right of the game card slot. The other DAT contacts (DAT1, DAT2, and DAT3) are not required, but you can solder to them if you are looking for faster transfer speeds. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but the basic principle is the same except you now need 7 wires with a connector and you need to solder the extra DAT points on the microSD adapter.
    CTR_NAND_pinout_XL.jpg
    x3DSXL_NAND_pinout.jpg.pagespeed.ic.g4Y7x9TAPS.jpg
  7. Apply some tinning flux to the end of your wire and use the wire as a brush to apply it onto the contacts that you will be soldering on. You could also use a q-tip to apply the flux to the contacts. This will make your soldering job easier.
  8. Begin soldering the four wires to each of the contacts: DAT0, CMD and CLK, and also GND (the solder blob). Make sure your soldering is clean, neat, and make sure you soldered the right points.
  9. Once you have triple checked that your solder work is perfect, cut a hole onto the back cover (not the back plate) of your 3DS console to place the butt connecter to the wires. If you are using the wires that I recommended, the connectors are already provided. You can make a hole by drilling it in or using your soldering iron to melt a hole. Then, you can finish it off using a hand file. Once you have made a hole for the butt connector, use a hot glue gun (or superglue) to glue the butt connecter to the back cover. Only apply the hot glue to the INSIDE of the back cover.
  10. Turn on your 3DS system to make sure that it still works properly and you didn’t kill it.
  11. Grab your microSD card adapter. It is time we solder the wires to it. If you are using my recommended wires, grab the second set of wires that came with the package. I highly, highly recommend that you color code the wires (one color for GND, another for CMD, CLK, and DAT0). Open your microSD adapter by using your fingernail to pry open the casing. Pull out the chip inside.
  12. You will see 8 pins inside the adapter. Solder the wires to the respective pins according to the diagram below. The diagram here shows a different point for Ground. You can also use that point or the solder blob. I use the solder blob because it is closer.
    mode-jpg.20214
  13. Now, once you have done that, it is time for the software portion. Plug your SD adapter into the recommended reader, but DO NOT plug the reader into the computer...yet.
  14. Power on your 3DS. If you did everything right, there should be a bootrom error message on a blue screen. In this state, you are now able to read/write the NAND. Do not power off your 3DS, and plug the reader into the USB port of your computer.
  15. On your computer, right click win32diskimager and select "Run as Administrator". Type in your administrator password and the program will open.
  16. Name the file whatever you want, but make sure you end it in (.img), so the program recognizes it as a Disk Image File. For example, you can name it NAND.img. Click on "Read". This process will take a few minutes. If you want to ever restore your NAND dump back to your device, then choose the disk image file and click on "Write" instead of "Read".
  17. Your NAND should now be successfully dumped! Make sure to check the file sizes of the NAND to see if the dump was completed successfully.



STEPS FOR 2DS
IMPORTANT NOTE: There are only certain SD card readers confirmed working with this mod for 2DS. Note that they are the same as the New 3DS:
Anker® USB 3.0 (68UNMCRD-B2U) : Realtek RTS5306
TekRepublic TUC-300 : Realtek RTS5307

Some other card readers that use the same chipset /controller but have not been tested although should work:

Plugable USB3-FLASH3 -
SIIG JU-MR0E12-S1-
Startech FCREADMICRO3 -

Other card readers that work
SanDisk SDDR-121-A11M : GL827
Anker® USB 3.0 4-Slot Card Reader (A7612) : RT5301 (Ava)

(The "Anker" readers have been highly tested by me and others who have performed a hardmod. They are confirmed to work with the Old 3DS. Therefore, the "Anker" readers are best recommended to work with this hardmod)
  1. Remove all peripherals from the console and store them someplace safe
  2. Flip the console over and unscrew the two screws on top securing the back plate. Note: These screws do not come off completely; they remain attached to the back plate. Remove the back plate:
    cdb3AdyJTrNhIjrr.huge
  3. Once the back plate is removed, you need to remove the 2DS battery
    YA2mNvc2fLpeZ4NZ.huge
  4. Now remove the ten 1.587mm screws that hold the back cover in place. Keep these somewhere safe.
    g5rOkC1kZTksR6lZ.huge
  5. Once all 10 screws are removed, the 2DS PCB will be exposed. DO NOT FORCEFULLY FLIP THE COVER OPEN. There is still a ribbon cable attached to the back cover. Gently flip the back cover over and unscrew the two .793mm screws attaching the ribbon cable to the back panel. Place the back cover aside.
    nCtU5fTtc3gYBBVe.large
  6. Once you have done that, get your wires and all the other materials you need to begin soldering. You will be working near the NAND: There are 4 main contacts that you will be soldering to. They are DAT0 (Data Zero), CMD, CLK (Clock), and we will use the metal SD card shielding for GND (Ground). The other DAT contacts (DAT1, DAT2, and DAT3) are not required, but you can solder to them if you are looking for faster transfer speeds. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but the basic principle is the same except you now need 7 wires with a connector and you need to solder the extra DAT points on the microSD adapter. All of these contacts are located on the opposite side of the motherboard. Flipping the motherboard may be a bit tedious and difficult to do, so here is a link that goes into detail on how to do it rather than me typing it here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+2DS+Motherboard+Replacement/35842
    2DSeMMC.jpg
  7. Apply some tinning flux to the end of your wire and use the wire as a brush to apply it onto the contacts that you will be soldering on. You could also use a q-tip to apply the flux to the contacts. This will make your soldering job easier and prevent oxidation.
  8. Begin soldering the four wires to each of the contacts: DAT0, CMD and CLK, and also GND (the SD shielding). Make sure your soldering is clean, neat, and make sure you soldered the right points.
  9. Once you have triple checked that your solder work is perfect, cut a hole onto the back cover (not the back plate) of your 2DS console to place the butt connecter to the wires. If you are using the wires that I recommended, the connectors are already provided. You can make a hole by drilling it in or using your soldering iron to melt a hole. Then, you can finish it off using a hand file. Once you have made a hole for the butt connector, use a hot glue gun (or superglue) to glue the butt connecter to the back cover. Only apply the hot glue to the INSIDE of the back cover.
  10. Turn on your 2DS system to make sure that it still works properly and you didn’t kill it.
  11. Grab your microSD card adapter. It is time we solder the wires to it. If you are using my recommended wires, grab the second set of wires that came with the package. I highly recommend that you color code the wires (one color for GND, another for CMD, CLK, and DAT0). Open your microSD adapter by using your fingernail to pry open the casing. Pull out the chip inside.
  12. You will see 8 pins inside the adapter. Solder the wires to the respective pins according to the diagram below. The diagram here shows a picture of the 3DS XL PCB. Disregard that, as this is for 2DS, and focus on the SD card diagram and where each wire should be soldered.
    mode-jpg.20214
  13. Now, once you have done that, it is time for the software portion. Plug your SD adapter into the recommended reader, but DO NOT plug the reader into the computer...yet.
  14. Power on your 2DS. If you did everything right, there should be a bootrom error message on a blue screen. In this state, you are now able to read/write the NAND. Do not power off your 2DS, and plug the reader into the USB port of your computer.
  15. On your computer, right click win32diskimager and select "Run as Administrator". Type in your administrator password and the program will open.
  16. Name the file whatever you want, but make sure you end it in (.img), so the program recognizes it as a Disk Image File. For example, you can name it NAND.img. Click on "Read". This process will take a few minutes. If you want to ever restore your NAND dump back to your device, then choose the disk image file and click on "Write" instead of "Read".
  17. Your NAND should now be successfully dumped! Make sure to check the file sizes of the NAND to see if the dump was completed successfully.
STEPS FOR OLD 3DS

IMPORTANT NOTE: There are only certain SD card readers confirmed working with this mod for 3DS (Same as XL) :
Anker® USB 3.0 (68UNMCRD-B2U) : Realtek RTS5306
TekRepublic TUC-300 : Realtek RTS5307
SanDisk SDDR-121-A11M : GL827
Transcend P8 TS-RDP8K : ALCOR AU6476 (Thank you Gamerquest1 and zchtoy)
Anker® USB 3.0 4-Slot Card Reader (A7612) : RT5301 (Ava)

(The "Anker" readers have been highly tested by me and others who have performed a hardmod. They are confirmed to work with the Old 3DS. Therefore, the "Anker" readers are best recommended to work with this hardmod)
  1. Remove all peripherals from the console and store them someplace safe where the homeless won't find them
  2. Flip the console over and unscrew the four screws on top securing the back plate. Note: These screws do not come off completely; they remain attached to the back plate. Remove the back plate by gently prying it apart.
    ITwcDRVYSfefXdaR.huge
  3. Once the back plate is removed, you need to remove the 3DS battery
    veZLHretTgIkbLcI.huge
  4. Now remove the nine 6.3mm screws that hold the back cover in place. Keep these somewhere safe. Don't forget the screw on the gamecard slot.
    BkJd3OSBpy1Rvikh.huge
  5. Once all 9 screws are removed, the 3DS PCB will be exposed. DO NOT FORCEFULLY FLIP THE COVER OPEN. There are still two ribbon cables attached to the motherboard. Gently flip the back cover over and detach the ribbon cables using your fingernail. Place the back cover aside.
  6. This next step involves flipping the motherboard, as the NAND chip is located on the back side of the motherboard. For the purpose of brevity, I have omitted the details on how to disassemble the motherboard properly to flip it, as this is beyond the scope of this tutorial. You can Google this, or look at video teardowns of the old 3DS on YouTube.
  7. Once you have done that, get your wires and all the other materials you need to begin soldering. You will be working near the NAND: There are 4 main contacts that you will be soldering to. They are DAT0 (Data Zero), CMD, and CLK (Clock). The other DAT contacts (DAT1, DAT2, and DAT3) are not required, but you can solder to them if you are looking for faster transfer speeds. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but the basic principle is the same except you now need 7 wires with a connector and you need to solder the extra DAT points on the microSD adapter. There are two points that can serve as GND (Ground). The first is a contact near the game card slot, and the other is a solder blob. Pick whichever one you want. As you can see, CLK is underneath the card reader. To access it, you must desolder the 3 legs of the card reader and slightly bend up. This may be a bit tough, so there is also another CLK point you can use that is on the opposite side of the motherboard .
    CTR_NAND_pinout.png
    3dsDump2.jpg
  8. Apply some tinning flux to the end of your wire and use the wire as a brush to apply it onto the contacts that you will be soldering on. You could also use a q-tip to apply the flux to the contacts. This will make your soldering job easier.
  9. Begin soldering the four wires to each of the contacts: DAT0, CMD and CLK, and also GND (the solder blob or the contact). Make sure your soldering is clean, neat, and make sure you soldered the right points.
  10. Once you have triple checked that your solder work is perfect, cut a hole onto the back cover (not the back plate) of your 3DS console to place the butt connecter to the wires. If you are using the wires that I recommended, the connectors are already provided. You can make a hole by drilling it in or using your soldering iron to melt a hole. Then, you can finish it off using a hand file. Once you have made a hole for the butt connector, use a hot glue gun (or superglue) to glue the butt connecter to the back cover. Only apply the hot glue to the INSIDE of the back cover.
  11. Turn on your 3DS system to make sure that it still works properly and you didn’t kill it.
  12. Grab your microSD card adapter. It is time we solder the wires to it. If you are using my recommended wires, grab the second set of wires that came with the package. I highly, highly recommend that you color code the wires (one color for GND, another for CMD, CLK, and DAT0). Open your microSD adapter by using your fingernail to pry open the casing. Pull out the chip inside.
  13. You will see a few pins inside the adapter. Solder the wires to the respective pins according to the diagram below.
    3dsDump4.jpg
  14. Now, once you have done that, it is time for the software portion. Plug your SD adapter into the recommended reader, but DO NOT plug the reader into the computer...yet.
  15. Power on your 3DS. If you did everything right, there should be a bootrom error message on a blue screen. In this state, you are now able to read/write the NAND. Do not power off your 3DS, and plug the reader into the USB port of your computer.
  16. On your computer, right click win32diskimager and select "Run as Administrator". Type in your administrator password and the program will open.
  17. Name the file whatever you want, but make sure you end it in (.img), so the program recognizes it as a Disk Image File. For example, you can name it NAND.img. Click on "Read". This process will take a few minutes. If you want to ever restore your NAND dump back to your device, then choose the disk image file and click on "Write" instead of "Read".
  18. Your NAND should now be successfully dumped! Make sure to check the file sizes of the NAND to see if the dump was completed successfully.



STEPS FOR NEW 3DS

NOTE: Only the following SD card readers work with the New 3DS! (Not the same as the Old 3DS models):​

Anker® USB 3.0 (68UNMCRD-B2U) : Realtek RTS5306
TekRepublic TUC-300 : Realtek RTS5307

Some other card readers that use the same chipset /controller but have not been tested although should work:
Plugable USB3-FLASH3 -
SIIG JU-MR0E12-S1-
Startech FCREADMICRO3 -

Other card readers that work
SanDisk SDDR-121-A11M : GL827
Transcend P8 TS-RDP8K : ALCOR AU6476 (Thank you Gamerquest1 and zchtoy)
(Due to complaints about the Transcend reader not being compatible, it has been removed from this list. It is recommended that you use one of the other readers)

Anker® USB 3.0 4-Slot Card Reader (A7612) : RT5301 (Ava)

(The "Anker" readers have been highly tested by me and others who have performed a hardmod. They are confirmed to work with the New 3DS. Therefore, the "Anker" readers are best recommended to work with this hardmod)


Card reader chipsets known not to work on N3DS with the Samsung eMMC, but may still work on one with the Toshiba and the 3DS/XL eMMC:
GL3220
GL3233
GL834

  1. Remove all peripherals from the console and store them someplace where the homeless won't find them.
  2. Remove the back plate of the console by unscrewing the top two screw that secure it. Note: These do not remove completely, they still remain attached to the motherboard.
    new-3ds-5.jpg
  3. Remove the battery. Now, unscrew the three screws that secure the microSD card reader. The New 3DS motherboard will now be exposed. BE CAREFUL!! There is still a ribbon cable underneath the microSD card reader. Carefully detach them with your fingernail.
    new-3ds-6.jpg
  4. Remove the 5 screws that are on the border of the console and carefully open the back case of the New 3DS. Additionally, there should be two rubber pegs at the top of your console. Remove them with tweezers, and unscrew the two screws that are underneath. Carefully flip the back casing open. There are still two ribbon cables underneath, so detach them with your fingernail. You should have now exposed the whole motherboard.
    new-3ds-13.jpg
  5. The next step involves flipping the motherboard to access the NAND on the other side. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial. For a detailed guide on disassembling the motherboard, look here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+3DS+XL+2015+Motherboard+Replacement/41361. Warning! The NEW 3DS and the NEW 3DS XL have certain clips that do NOT open. These clips are shown in this picture (taken by pbanj). The cables simply pull out. Do not attempt to bend these clips to open them. Click here for a fix if you accidentally bend these clips.
    4vaRfZ2.jpg
  6. The following image shows the NAND pinout for the New 3DS. We will only be soldering to DAT0, CMD, CLK and also ground (GND) You can simply use the metal game card shielding for GND. Just solder to a corner of the game card shielding. The other DAT contacts (DAT1, DAT2, and DAT3) are not required, but you can solder to them if you are looking for faster transfer speeds. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but the basic principle is the same except you now need 7 wires with a connector and you need to solder the extra DAT points on the microSD adapter. NOTE: Here is a link to a thread with details about an alternative CLK point for the New 3DS.
    N3DSeMMC.jpg
  7. Now, it is time to mount the butt connector. You can pick any place to mount it. You can use your soldering iron to melt a hole, and then use a hand file to finish it off. Once that is done, hot glue the butt connector to the hole. If you are using my recommended wires, then the butt connectors are already attached. If not, you will have to manually solder wires to a separate butt connector.
  8. Grab your SD card adapter and pry it open using your fingernail. Place the casing aside and pull out the actual adapter itself. If you are using my recommended wires, then grab the second set of wires that came in the package and solder each wire according to the diagram below. If not, then you must solder a butt connector to one end and solder the other ends of the wire to the SD adapter shown in the diagram below.
    mmc_adapter.jpg
  9. Once you have created your Franken-SD Adapter, connect the butt connectors together, and then put the makeshift microSD adapter into the SD reader (Make sure you have one of the readers from the list above!). DO NOT plug the SD reader into your computer yet…
  10. Turn on the N3DS console. If everything went well, you should be on a blue bootrom error screen. In this state, the NAND can be read/written to. Now, without powering off your device, plug the SD reader into the USB port of your computer.
  11. Your computer may ask you if you want to format your NAND. DO NOT DO THIS. EVER. IT WILL DESTROY YOUR DEVICE. CLICK CANCEL. Now, right click on win32diskimager and select “Open as Administrator”. Once it is open, type whatever you want to name your file and make sure you add (.img) at the end. For example, you can name it nand.img. Click on "Read".
  12. Your NAND should now be successfully dumped! Make sure to check the file sizes of the NAND to see if the dump was completed successfully.
STEPS FOR NEW 3DS XL
NOTE: Only the following SD card readers work with the New 3DS XL! (Not the same as the Old 3DS models):

Anker® USB 3.0 (68UNMCRD-B2U) : Realtek RTS5306
TekRepublic TUC-300 : Realtek RTS5307

Some other card readers that use the same chipset /controller but have not been tested although should work:
Plugable USB3-FLASH3 -
SIIG JU-MR0E12-S1-
Startech FCREADMICRO3 -

Other card readers that work
SanDisk SDDR-121-A11M : GL827
Transcend P8 TS-RDP8K : ALCOR AU6476 (Thank you Gamerquest1 and zchtoy)
(Due to complaints about the Transcend reader not being compatible, it has been removed from this list. It is recommended that you use one of the other readers)

Anker® USB 3.0 4-Slot Card Reader (A7612) : RT5301 (Ava)

(The "Anker" readers have been highly tested by me and others who have performed a hardmod. They are confirmed to work with the New 3DS XL. Therefore, the "Anker" readers are best recommended to work with this hardmod)

Card reader chipsets known not to work on N3DS with the Samsung eMMC, but may still work on one with the Toshiba and the 3DS/XL eMMC:
GL3220
GL3233
GL834
  1. Remove all peripherals from the console and store them someplace where the homeless won't find them.
  2. Remove the back plate of the console by unscrewing the top two screw that secure it. Note: These do not remove completely, they still remain attached to the motherboard.
    ItsctXxYnpWHaGbE.huge

  3. Remove the 6 screws that are on the border of the console. Additionally, there should be two rubber pegs at the top of your console. Remove them with tweezers, and unscrew the two screws that are underneath. Carefully flip the back casing open. There are still two ribbon cables underneath, so detach them with your fingernail. You should have now exposed the whole motherboard.
    nCgM35SfWxS1LjiY.huge
  4. The following image shows the NAND pinout for the New 3DS XL. These pinouts are located on the other side of the board. You will need to flip the motherboard to access them. Warning! The NEW 3DS and the NEW 3DS XL have certain clips that do NOT open. These clips are shown in this picture (taken by pbanj). The cables simply pull out. Do not attempt to bend these clips to open them. Click here for a fix if you accidentally bend these clips.
    4vaRfZ2.jpg
  5. We will only be soldering to DAT0, CMD, CLK and also ground (GND) You can simply use the metal game card shielding for GND. Just solder to a corner of the game card shielding. The other DAT contacts (DAT1, DAT2, and DAT3) are not required, but you can solder to them if you are looking for faster transfer speeds. This is beyond the scope of this tutorial, but the basic principle is the same except you now need 7 wires with a connector and you need to solder the extra DAT points on the microSD adapter. An alternate CLK point is also provided
    00_n3ds-xl_pins-png.17927
    attachment.php
  6. DO NOT use this area for GND because of the power connector in blue near it:
    img_0519-jpg.18624
  7. Now, it is time to mount the butt connector. You can pick any place to mount it. You can use your soldering iron to melt a hole, and then use a hand file to finish it off. Once that is done, hot glue the butt connector to the hole. If you are using my recommended wires, then the butt connectors are already attached. If not, you will have to manually solder wires to a separate butt connector.
  8. Grab your SD card adapter and pry it open using your fingernail. Place the casing aside and pull out the actual adapter itself. If you are using my recommended wires, then grab the second set of wires that came in the package and solder each wire according to the diagram below. If not, then you must solder a butt connector to one end and solder the other ends of the wire to the SD adapter shown in the diagram below.
    mmc_adapter.jpg
  9. Once you have created your Franken-SD Adapter, connect the butt connectors together, and then put the makeshift microSD adapter into the SD reader (Make sure you have one of the readers from the list above!). DO NOT plug the SD reader into your computer yet…
  10. Turn on the N3DS XL console. If everything went well, you should be on a blue bootrom error screen. In this state, the NAND can be read/written to. Now, without powering off your device, plug the SD reader into the USB port of your computer.
  11. Your computer may ask you if you want to format your NAND. DO NOT DO THIS. EVER. IT WILL DESTROY YOUR DEVICE. CLICK CANCEL. Now, right click on win32diskimager and select “Open as Administrator”. Once it is open, type whatever you want to name your file and make sure you add (.img) at the end. For example, you can name it nand.img. Click on "Read".
  12. Your NAND should now be successfully dumped! Make sure to check the file sizes of the NAND to see if the dump was completed successfully.
STEPS FOR THE NEW 2DS XL
I currently do not have an in-depth tutorial for the New 2DS XL system. Little is documented about the NAND of this system, and I personally have not attempted to do a hardmod on this device. However, NAND pinouts for the New 2DS XL system have been found, and a full tutorial for this particular system can be found in this video. Once enough people have tested these pinouts, I will do an actual tutorial for the New 2DS XL:


Warning! Many people have not tested these pinouts for the New 2DS XL. 3DBrew has not documented the NAND pinouts for this system either. As such, follow this video at your own risk. I am not to be held responsible for any damage that you do to your system by following an unofficial video tutorial.


Important Links:
NAND Error Codes
3DBrew has documented details about the 3DS NAND, including other useful information. Here is a list of all the error codes that is shown by the ARM9 bootrom when the NAND isn't initialized during startup (including when you have a franken-SD attached):

NAND Sizes
This shows the different NAND sizes for 3DS consoles

Old 3DS XL NAND Dump Video Pt 1
A video tutorial on hardmodding the Old 3DS XL Part 1

Old 3DS XL NAND Dump Video Pt 2
A video tutorial on hardmodding the Old 3DS XL Part 2

How to Solder (for beginners)
A video that teaches soldering concepts to beginners. Make sure you become proficient in soldering and have attempted it before you solder your 3DS

Hardmod Installers
For those who want somebody to install a hardmod on your 3DS console, this link shows trusted hardmod installers by region (UK, France, Germany, USA, Italy, and Brazil).
 
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Hi, I just did this tuto with a friend and got my NAND, but I have a few questions:

1 - The md5 was different for nands depending on the day, so if I get 2 nand's today and 2 tomorrow, I will have 2 different md5. Is it normal?

2 - I saw a lot of mods on this topic, is it possible to make a list of connectors to use on mods?

3 - Is there a good tuto to downgrade an n3ds XL from 11.0.0-33U?

4 - Is there a good tuto to install the necessary hack so I can play the .cia files?

5 - Is there a good site to download .cia files? (I found a site, but Im getting an error when registering)

Obs.: I have an n3DS XL.

Sorry for this amount of questions and thanks for the answer.
Unfortunately I did not remember to take photos of my open n3DS XL, but Im going to post a few thing that I think important to emphasize and a few links that helped me on the process.
 
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cravas

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Hi, I just did this tuto with a friend and got my NAND, but I have a few questions:
1 - The md5 was different for nands depending on the day, so if I get 2 nand's today and 2 tomorrow, I will have 2 different md5. Is it normal?
2 - I saw a lot of mods on this topic, is it possible to make a list of connectors to use on mods?
3 - Is there a good tuto to downgrade an n3ds XL from 11.0.0-33U?
4 - Is there a good tuto to install the necessary hack so I can play the .cia files?
5 - Is there a good site to download .cia files? (I found a site, but Im getting an error when registering)

Obs.: I have an n3DS XL.

Sorry for this amount of questions and thanks for the answer.
Unfortunately I did not remember to take photos of my open n3DS XL, but Im going to post a few thing that I think important to emphasize and a few links that helped me on the process.
1 - Yes. it's normal. Every time you dump a NAND, boot normal, and then dump again, the NANDs will be different.
When you read/dump the NAND, always do 3/4 dumps in one go and then check to see if they match. That way you know they're all good.

2 - As long as the wires are connected properly, we can use whatever we want on the hardmod. If you want a list, then go on and do it yourself (check all that you've seen and make the list)

3 - https://plailect.github.io/Guide/hardmod-downgrade

4 - https://plailect.github.io/Guide/get-started

5 - Google that iso site. Or after installing A9LH, get Freeshop (search gbatemp) and you'll have access to all games from eShop for free.
 

dekuleon

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The Kingston reader FCR-HS3 can work with a little trick : it use a custom firmware embedded in an eprom, to work, you will need to remove this eprom (a 8 pins IC marqued u4) and it will use the original firmware of it's RTS5301 chip

I think this trick can work with every based RTS5301 reader

idea come from http://goughlui.com/2014/02/17/review-teardown-kogan-usb-3-0-universal-memory-card-reader/ rubric "UPDATE: It can be fixed!"

regards

I have that Kingston model... So, if I remove that Chip, I'll be abble to read NANDs with my Kingston??
 

dekuleon

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Get yourself an ANKER.
N3DS (XL) is very picky with what reader's can work with it (I also haven't managed to have a read with the Transcend).
If you have another SD reader (even if it's not one of the recommended) try it.

Also, make sure your wires are the shortest length possible (from Mainboard to frankenSD).

What model of the Anker?
 

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As I told in my last post, I'm going to give an feedback with the problems I hand and what helped me.

I have an N#DS XL

Problems:

1 - It took some time for me to realize that the chip was on the other side of the motherboard, so I suggest to tell this on the tuto (I saw a few more people asking the same here).

2 - Put a highlighted text alerting about the ZIF connector (these are really easy to break)

3 - The motherboard can have a few diferences depending on the version of the motherboard, but it is only simple things like signs. Not much of a problem there...

4 - The NAND's need to be saved in the sabe boot, as cravas said
(I think that this a good information to put on the tuto)

What helped me:

1.1 - I used this video to see how the cables were connected at the time of reassembling:


1.2 - This ifixit can help someone that can't see a youtube video: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+3DS+XL+2015+Motherboard+Replacement/41361

2 - I asked a friend to help me in the soldering, since he does this for years :rolleyes:

Thing you must have to do before starting:

1 - Read the full tutorial before starting to do anything.

2 - Read the comments (most of my questions/problems where there)

3 - See the video available in the tutorial

4 - Search a few sites/videos to see things from differents points

5 - Have patience a lot of patience and care, there is no need to be in a hurry

What I used:

Card reader - Transcend P8 TS-RDP8K (this one worked 100% of the times for me)
SD adapter - SanDisk
Connector - Im yet to do this part :P

* I soldered the GND in the metal game card shielding

Well this was the feedback that I got after doing my hardmod, I hope this information can help someone.
Thanks for the help from everyone from this topic I was able to do it :grog:, now Im going to start the downgrade! :unsure:
 

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Does anybody have a video tutorial (i'm dumb, sorry)?
If you need a vídeo then I advise you to just send it to someone knowlegdeable to do it.

And even if a vídeo existed, it had to be (at least) 5 of them: Old 3DS, Old 3DS XL, 2DS, New 3DS, New 3DS XL.
The guide in the OP is well documented and there is always someone here willing to help, if you decide to DIY (do it yourself).

In case you want to send it to someone, @mvmiranda is a vouched Brazilian modder.

If you need help: start by saying which console do you have and why you want to hardmod.
 
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morken772

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If you need a vídeo then I advise you to just send it to someone knowlegdeable to do it.

And even if a vídeo existed, it had to be (at least) 5 of them: Old 3DS, Old 3DS XL, 2DS, New 3DS, New 3DS XL.
The guide in the OP is well documented and there is always someone here willing to help, if you decide to DIY (do it yourself).

In case you want to send it to someone, @mvmiranda is a vouched Brazilian modder.

If you need help: start by saying which console do you have and why you want to hardmod.

Oh, thanks.
 

mvmiranda

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If you need a vídeo then I advise you to just send it to someone knowlegdeable to do it.

And even if a vídeo existed, it had to be (at least) 5 of them: Old 3DS, Old 3DS XL, 2DS, New 3DS, New 3DS XL.
The guide in the OP is well documented and there is always someone here willing to help, if you decide to DIY (do it yourself).

In case you want to send it to someone, @mvmiranda is a vouched Brazilian modder.

If you need help: start by saying which console do you have and why you want to hardmod.
@cravas, Thanks mate!
@morken772, feel free to contact me, if you still need my services.
 

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Hi !
I have a little problem with a n3ds xl. I was fallowing plaitect tutorial to downgrade from 9.4 to 9.2 and it crashed and forced me to update on 11.1.0-34 firmware. So I fallow another tutorial from youtube, but it didnt work. Now my top screen is black and on bottom screen showed this error.
I have 2 nand backups :1 from 9.4 and 1 for 11.1.0. With this error i can make a hardmod?Can I make a hardmod with 9.4 nand? I never made a hardmod .

Greetings from Romania!
 

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cravas

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Hi !
I have a little problem with a n3ds xl. I was fallowing plaitect tutorial to downgrade from 9.4 to 9.2 and it crashed and forced me to update on 11.1.0-34 firmware. So I fallow another tutorial from youtube, but it didnt work. Now my top screen is black and on bottom screen showed this error.
I have 2 nand backups :1 from 9.4 and 1 for 11.1.0. With this error i can make a hardmod?Can I make a hardmod with 9.4 nand? I never made a hardmod .

Greetings from Romania!
The 0000 errors are usually meaning failed signature checks.
If you have backuped NANDs (which you seem to have) and you know for sure that they are good dumps, then you probably will be able to recover the console with a hardmod.
Even if you have an error, as long as you can recognize the NAND chip (with the hardmod) on PC, you can read/write to it.

The N3DSXL isn't that hard to mod but if you have none to little experience in soldering, then it is better to send it to someone more experienced in it.
Also, one of the main problems with the N3DSXL are some ribbons and connectors that are really easy to damage if you don't know what you're doing.

Since you're in Romania maybe you can ask either @milerwan (France) or @gamesquest1 (UK) how much would it cost to do it.

If you decide in DYI (do it yourself), just take your time, read the OP for the N3DSXL carefully and ask before doing anything if you don't feel confortable.
 
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offroadguy56

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Soldering to the alternate clk pad and the pad rips off the motherboard when I bumped the wire. Tried the original clk point and same thing.

I guess that ends my adventure trying to mod my N3dsXL. Any other clk points or why my pads ripped off so easily?


EDIT: 3DS now makes a pop on the speaker when I turn it on then shuts off.
Guess it's dead.
 
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Stevedavid678

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I brcked my 2ds from armloaderhaxs so can I restore a nand.bin using a hardmod? The reason I ask this is because I know win32diskimager uses IMG files.
I made the backup in January with gateway ultra launcher.
 

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Soldering to the alternate clk pad and the pad rips off the motherboard when I bumped the wire. Tried the original clk point and same thing.

I guess that ends my adventure trying to mod my N3dsXL. Any other clk points or why my pads ripped off so easily?


EDIT: 3DS now makes a pop on the speaker when I turn it on then shuts off.
Guess it's dead.
If you're lucky it could just be a loose ribbon cable, it was a common issue with the regular 3DS. My pads seemed sturdy enough, you have to be as gentle as possible but sh*t happens :(

I brcked my 2ds from armloaderhaxs so can I restore a nand.bin using a hardmod? The reason I ask this is because I know win32diskimager uses IMG files.
I made the backup in January with gateway ultra launcher.
I think that's fine, just change the extension from .bin to .img, it might be worth waiting for someone who is sure of it though. And first make sure there isn't an easier way to recover, from memory if you hold one of the buttons you can launch into Decrypt9, though this may not be applicable in your situation.
 

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hi guys,before i'm asking this,i been searching for the answer but i can't find one,i'm trying to hardmod my old 3ds lite,it pop out error code:

00F800FE
00000000 00000000
00000003 00000000

in both bottom and top screen,i'm using sandisk SD card.

what did i do wrong?

any help will be very appreciated

Edit: Finally i change another card reader,it comes up with

00F800FE
FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
00000200 00000000

i can read NAND but i cannot write/flash it. can anyone help please? thank you soo much
 
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porko

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hi guys,before i'm asking this,i been searching for the answer but i can't find one,i'm trying to hardmod my old 3ds lite,it pop out error code:

00F800FE
00000000 00000000
00000003 00000000

in both bottom and top screen,i'm using sandisk SD card.

what did i do wrong?

any help will be very appreciated

Edit: Finally i change another card reader,it comes up with

00F800FE
FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF
00000200 00000000

i can read NAND but i cannot write/flash it. can anyone help please? thank you soo much

If it reads but doesn't write it's most likely that little lock slider on the side of the frankenSD, if it has come off I hear some tape fixes it.
 

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thanks for reply @porko but i have check the lock slider its unlock,and it comes up with Volume error,i put the attachment on here.

hope someone could help.thank you really appreciated that
 

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