Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Xandroz]

With method 1 there is no need to be scared of autorcm as it always powers off the Switch properly and doesn't drain the battery. It's also easy to use other payloads by just putting them on the sd card and turning the Switch on while holding vol+.

ah i get you.
still need to figure my last resort between 1/2
i just like the idea of booting normally and pressing the volume up to get to sx os.

ill decide between them over the next 48 hours

 

[subcon959]

i just like the idea of booting normally and pressing the volume up to get to sx os.

I guess for some people it's useful to not accidentally boot to Horizon and burn fuses.

 

[Xandroz]

I guess for some people it's useful to not accidentally boot to Horizon and burn fuses.

yea thats why we have several options.

im guessing ill go with either 1 or 2 but for the fun part, method 2

 

[subcon959]

yea thats why we have several options.

im guessing ill go with either 1 or 2 but for the fun part, method 2

I would've gone for method 2 myself if there was some sort of safe way to do all the homebrew stuff without getting banned. Since I'm sure I'll get banned eventually I might aswell always be in CFW.

 

[Xandroz]

I would've gone for method 2 myself if there was some sort of safe way to do all the homebrew stuff without getting banned. Since I'm sure I'll get banned eventually I might aswell always be in CFW.

we are all gonna get banned one way or another

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

what i want to understand in method 2 is the
volume+ strap

if i solder it will it boot automatically to sx os
and if i dont it will boot to ofw.

i dont mind volume + and open the sx loader menu and swivvle my way from there honestly

 

[crow132]

you can get to ofw from the loaders anyway, no need method 2 for that
with hekate you can even autoboot ofw and boot cfw from the loader by pressing volume +

 

[mattytrog]

we are all gonna get banned one way or another

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

what i want to understand in method 2 is the
volume+ strap

if i solder it will it boot automatically to sx os
and if i dont it will boot to ofw.

i dont mind volume + and open the sx loader menu and swivvle my way from there honestly

Method 2 is just the same as Method 1 apart from no AutoRCM.

It will ALWAYS boot a payload from power on, but without autoRCM.

Thats the theory anyway...

IMHO method 2 is pointless. People say that they don`t want to flag a ban by using AutoRCM, but they will flag a ban by using Hekate / SXOS anyway. No I can`t work it out either.

Method 2 without the volume strap gives you a choice of booting into CFW (holding vol+) or not... Erm... power button only.

 

[Xandroz]

Method 2 is just the same as Method 1 apart from no AutoRCM.

It will ALWAYS boot a payload from power on, but without autoRCM.

Thats the theory anyway...

IMHO method 2 is pointless. People say that they don`t want to flag a ban by using AutoRCM, but they will flag a ban by using Hekate / SXOS anyway. No I can`t work it out either.

Method 2 without the volume strap gives you a choice of booting into CFW (holding vol+) or not... Erm... power button only.

yes oungot a point we are going to be banned either way.

ill prefer having 2 boot options thats why.

so if i soldered the volume strap i have auto rcm or what.
just need to understand before procedding

 

[mattytrog]

yes oungot a point we are going to be banned either way.

ill prefer having 2 boot options thats why.

so if i soldered the volume strap i have auto rcm or what.
just need to understand before procedding

Don`t use autoRCM if using method 2. Vol+ during boot will select SXOS/Hekate

 

[sandog]

Hello All, When it says to drag and drop the 3 files from the SXOS Test folder to where? The Hekate folder?

 

[mattytrog]

Hello All, When it says to drag and drop the 3 files from the SXOS Test folder to where? The Hekate folder?

Inside SX test you have 3 files... Double-press trinket reset while plugged in to bring up TRINKETBOOT drive. Overwrite with 3 files from SX test download.

 

[sandog]

Thats my issue then... Nothing comes up when I hit the reset button. Lights change on the chip but nothing pops up on my PC

 

[sandog]

Is there a way to program after install... I think my usb is loose on the chip

 

[consolex]

for the method 3 how can M0 burn the efuse ???
I can not understand how it could cause problems.

 

[mattytrog]

for the method 3 how can M0 burn the efuse ???
I can not understand how it could cause problems.

It doesn't burn fuses.

If the trinket fails to load the payload and switch reboots normally, your fuses are gone if you are using a higher firmware then you have fuses blown for. Unless they are already blown for the firmware you are running.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Is there a way to program after install... I think my usb is loose on the chip

Yes. On home screen, double press reset

 

[consolex]

It doesn't burn fuses.

If the trinket fails to load the payload and switch reboots normally, your fuses are gone if you are using a higher firmware then you have fuses blown for. Unless they are already blown for the firmware you are running.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Yes. On home screen, double press reset

yes it is normal operation during some update. in no case it can damage the switch

 

[sandog]

So I can just install the Trinket right out of the package with no programming and just program it after installing it in the switch using method

 

[subcon959]

So I can just install the Trinket right out of the package with no programming and just program it after installing it in the switch using method

You could but that's not the best way. You should flash the files first, and then de-solder the usb port (very carefully) to make it flat enough to fit in the Switch without bulging the back cover.

 

[Deleted User]

Alright! Finally got most of my dongle together. Still waiting on magnet wire to put a USB C Male port on it so for now it needs a Micro USB to USB a to USB C cable, but it works! soldered the negative pin on the battery directly to the negative pad on the back of the board, then a button to the positive pin and to the battery port.

 

[sandog]

So what method is everyone having the best luck with GO!!