Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[consolex]

Method 2 becomes the best I think with 16/07/2018 UPDATE 2
Wihtout vol+ strap

 

[mattytrog]

hello there

so ive been playing around with my broken switch after cleaning it with acetone and I realized a few things

after turning on the system and leaving it like that for a while, the system gets hot, that made me though that maybe the system actually gets into RCM mode, but when i connect it to the computer, it's not detected.

then I also remember that once my system died and I tried to turn it on with the trinket still connected, the trinket went on, searched for my system to send the payload but then failed and turned itself off (red light then off)

so I though, hey, what if my system is actually working but what is broken is the ability to send any data through the usb?

I looked then at the usb data pins and they look like this (look at the picture below)

so yeah, i think that maybe my system is not 100% dead rly… still, since I have autorcm and I'm an ignorant, I can't prove anything at all, but I think everything falls together pretty nicely

hello there

so ive been playing around with my broken switch after cleaning it with acetone and I realized a few things

after turning on the system and leaving it like that for a while, the system gets hot, that made me though that maybe the system actually gets into RCM mode, but when i connect it to the computer, it's not detected.

then I also remember that once my system died and I tried to turn it on with the trinket still connected, the trinket went on, searched for my system to send the payload but then failed and turned itself off (red light then off)

so I though, hey, what if my system is actually working but what is broken is the ability to send any data through the usb?

I looked then at the usb data pins and they look like this (look at the picture below)

May help?

I should add that if you do lose this component I drew the black arrow to... I don`t know what it is. Maybe a capacitor for decoupling / filtering or a diode / rectifier for current limiting? I have no idea. It is gone from my freebie butchered test bench unit of death. However, USB works without it fine IF YOU BRIDGE THE POINTS. If it is to save the M92T36 then it does a rubbish job from the amount of custom-docked bricked switches out there...
I`d replace with a couple of ceramic caps. But save it if you can. Use 40 AWG and some good eyes. I have soldered to the points on this component I`ve highlighted.

@tecfreak any ideas what this is? Even I haven`t got a bloody clue. Looks like 1210 4 pin size to me

EDIT: Its a filter / choke. Probably TDK MCZ1210AH201L2

 

[roamin]

hey matty, doing method 1, long story short, knocked my cable i had on 3v for method 1 and knocked the top of its cap off........ im shit.

anyway to pull voltage elsewhere? preferably not a smaller point lol, that was a bitch. but i got it, then decided i didnt want to keep my hard work and ripped it off by accident.

edit: removed trinket, got the switch together and turned it on, works fine, payload into sxos fine, so in general i dont think i harmed the switch in any way knocking the top of the 3v point off.

 

[mattytrog]

hey matty, doing method 1, long story short, knocked my cable i had on 3v for method 1 and knocked the top of its cap off........ im shit.

anyway to pull voltage elsewhere? preferably not a smaller point lol, that was a bitch. but i got it, then decided i didnt want to keep my hard work and ripped it off by accident.

edit: removed trinket, got the switch together and turned it on, works fine, payload into sxos fine, so in general i dont think i harmed the switch in any way knocking the top of the 3v point off.

The cap keeps the internal supply for the USB controller stable and smooths it out. Earlier in the thread, I advised that the trinket has a smoothing cap that (when method one is followed) is actually in parallel to the cap that you have lost.

Nutshell: If you fit the trinket, 3v & GND, the capacitor on the trinket will do the same job.

 

[roamin]

The cap keeps the internal supply for the USB controller stable and smooths it out. Earlier in the thread, I advised that the trinket has a smoothing cap that (when method one is followed) is actually in parallel to the cap that you have lost.

Nutshell: If you fit the trinket, 3v & GND, the capacitor on the trinket will do the same job.

does your head hurt knowing this much shit?

thank you sir i appreciate it.

 

[mattytrog]

does your head hurt knowing this much shit?

thank you sir i appreciate it.

I know bugger all mate!

You are welcome.

 

[crow132]

May help?

I should add that if you do lose this component I drew the black arrow to... I don`t know what it is. Maybe a capacitor for decoupling / filtering or a diode / rectifier for current limiting? I have no idea. It is gone from my freebie butchered test bench unit of death. However, USB works without it fine IF YOU BRIDGE THE POINTS. If it is to save the M92T36 then it does a rubbish job from the amount of custom-docked bricked switches out there...
I`d replace with a couple of ceramic caps. But save it if you can. Use 40 AWG and some good eyes. I have soldered to the points on this component I`ve highlighted.

@tecfreak any ideas what this is? Even I haven`t got a bloody clue. Looks like 1210 4 pin size to me

EDIT: Its a filter / choke. Probably TDK MCZ1210AH201L2

Thank you very much, ill try that and report back

 

[noX1609]

The cap keeps the internal supply for the USB controller stable and smooths it out. Earlier in the thread, I advised that the trinket has a smoothing cap that (when method one is followed) is actually in parallel to the cap that you have lost.

Nutshell: If you fit the trinket, 3v & GND, the capacitor on the trinket will do the same job.

Yeah the post you mean was when you told me this should work and i think it does work
So when parts arrive i will try to fix the secound capacitor that got lost and the two resistors at Power button and then i hope the console will work normally again

 

[64Dp128k]

Had a bit if an issue redid the whole install used some glue, toothpick was put to good use! Cheers op. Also my make shift shim was getting loose so I just soldered it together.

All good.

 

[mattytrog]

Had a bit if an issue redid the whole install used some glue, toothpick was put to good use! Cheers op. Also my make shift shim was getting loose so I just soldered it together.

All good.

Top banana! I guess you are leaving the shielding off?

 

[64Dp128k]

Top banana! I guess you are leaving the shielding off?

I cut a piece out as the shim stuck out works fine. It's not the best of jobs but I know it won't move now.

 

[tecfreak]

@tecfreak any ideas what this is? Even I haven`t got a bloody clue. Looks like 1210 4 pin size to me

EDIT: Its a filter / choke. Probably TDK MCZ1210AH201L2

I also wondered what that could be. I think you are right that this is some kind of EMI filter / smd ferrite. The small ic beneath it marked with "7C" is probably some kind of ESD protection.
I am still looking for the series termination resistors. If you follow the traces, you can see that they continue on the other side of the pcb (Cluster B, pads 2 and 3) and going right under the SoC.

 

[mattytrog]

I also wondered what that could be. I think you are right that this is some kind of EMI filter / smd ferrite. The small ic beneath it marked with "7C" is probably some kind of ESD protection.
I am still looking for the series termination resistors. If you follow the traces, you can see that they continue on the other side of the pcb (Cluster B, pads 2 and 3) and going right under the SoC.

That 7C IC must be giving off some kind of RF / common mode. Only reason to have it there to choke off whatever is coming from that IC.

That choke is only any good upto about 200Mhz. So, whatever is coming from it is under 200

 

[iriez]

I have a method 3 with the trinket and would like to reduce sleep power drain, but keep horizon functionality. I removed autorcm because at the time it seemed to re-awaken the trinket and drain the battery.

Is it possible with method 1 to boot horizon?
If I have sxos payload on the trinket and method 1, is it possible to put the unit into RCM to deliver a hekate payload?

I currently have a wire attached to rst to put the trinket in bootloader mode, would doing method 1 interfere with this at all? I can never seem to press the case to hit the button correctly.

Method 1 is currently the best way to eliminate power draw?

 

[mattytrog]

I have a method 3 with the trinket and would like to reduce sleep power drain, but keep horizon functionality. I removed autorcm because at the time it seemed to re-awaken the trinket and drain the battery.

Is it possible with method 1 to boot horizon?
If I have sxos payload on the trinket and method 1, is it possible to put the unit into RCM to deliver a hekate payload?

I currently have a wire attached to rst to put the trinket in bootloader mode, would doing method 1 interfere with this at all? I can never seem to press the case to hit the button correctly.

Method 1 is currently the best way to eliminate power draw?

I wish people would read the OP!!!

Method 1 and 2 will save your battery from draining. You can choose SXOS or Hekate from the files there. You will have to cheange the trinket wiring to method 1 or 2.

 

[iriez]

I wish people would read the OP!!!

2 those questions are not answered in OP. So why avoid answering them and only answer the one that is in OP? That seems odd....

Please acknowledge the other two questions and answer them or point to me where they are answered in OP.

Edit - actually I had four questions and three are not answered in OP. (note the irony here as I did thoroughly read op)

Here they are again for convenience...

Is it possible with method 1 to boot horizon?

If I have sxos payload on the trinket and method 1, is it possible to put the unit into RCM to deliver a hekate payload?

I currently have a wire attached to rst to put the trinket in bootloader mode, would doing method 1 interfere with this at all?

 

[mattytrog]

I did read the op, and thoroughly at that, but obviously it did not answer my questions clearly enough, hence why I asked.

Slight irony here that you object to me supposedly not reading, when you clearly did not read my post correctly either as you did not answer my questions, only one.

If you re-read it, you will see more depth to my questions. You answered only 1, when there was 3 questions.

Calm down lad! It was only a light-hearted comment.

Anyway... Lets answer your questions...

I have a method 3 with the trinket and would like to reduce sleep power drain, but keep horizon functionality. I removed autorcm because at the time it seemed to re-awaken the trinket and drain the battery.

Is it possible with method 1 to boot horizon?
If I have sxos payload on the trinket and method 1, is it possible to put the unit into RCM to deliver a hekate payload?

No need. Put your desired payload on the card (in the root of the card eg payload.bin, hekate.bin or whatever). From the switch being off, if you hold down vol+ while booting (ie press power and hold down vol+) this will take you to SX loader menu. Now select options, then launch external payload. Choose your payload and it will run.

I currently have a wire attached to rst to put the trinket in bootloader mode, would doing method 1 interfere with this at all? I can never seem to press the case to hit the button correctly.

Maybe. It is all about timing. If you flash the method 1 test trinket firmware in the OP, this makes it a great deal easier.

Method 1 is currently the best way to eliminate power draw?

Method 1 or 2. Method 3 keeps the trinket powered (albeit asleep) all of the time as you well know.

We okay now?

 

[iriez]

Calm down lad! It was only a light-hearted comment.

Anyway... Lets answer your questions...



No need. Put your desired payload on the card (in the root of the card eg payload.bin, hekate.bin or whatever). From the switch being off, if you hold down vol+ while booting (ie press power and hold down vol+) this will take you to SX loader menu. Now select options, then launch external payload. Choose your payload and it will run.



Maybe. It is all about timing. If you flash the method 1 test trinket firmware in the OP, this makes it a great deal easier.



Method 1 or 2. Method 3 keeps the trinket powered (albeit asleep) all of the time as you well know.

We okay now?

Ahhhh, sorry. Thought you were harpin on me, you do seem good natured sorry!

I will give the test firmware a try and report back. Currently I can double tap the rst with at any time to put the trinket into bootloader mode. Is this only possible because the trinket is in sleep with my current method 3? and if I put it into method 1 and it correctly Powers the unit off will double tapping rst to gnd not put it into bootloader then? or perhaps what you're saying is it's a timing thing since the unit is only powered on for a brief time and I have to double-tap while it's in that moment?

I suppose if I can boot external payload through sxos then I can tell the switch to boot normally through Hekate yeah?

 

[mattytrog]

Ahhhh, sorry. Thought you were harpin on me, you do seem good natured sorry!

I will give the test firmware a try and report back. Currently I can double tap the rst with at any time to put the trinket into bootloader mode. Is this only possible because the trinket is in sleep with my current method 3? and if I put it into method 1 and it correctly Powers the unit off will double tapping rst to gnd not put it into bootloader then? or perhaps what you're saying is it's a timing thing since the unit is only powered on for a brief time and I have to double-tap while it's in that moment?

I suppose if I can boot external payload through sxos then I can tell the switch to boot normally through Hekate yeah?

Yes. If you flash Hekate to the trinket (use the TEST files!) you can configure Hekate to Autoboot and it will.

If changing from method 3 to method 1 or 2, please change your trinket wiring. This step is not optional!!

 

[Deleted User]

It's not working for me. I dragged the files onto it, plugged it in with an adapter, and attached a battery. The lights go on but nothing happens. I don't think it's accepting my files? Whenever I move the new ones in, it disconnects after copying them. And if I delete all of the files and plug it back in, they all come back.