Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Shagx]

Thanks scissors was just the job, all back together now

 

[taxco]

Use this.

Th

Use this.

Thank you,
I have read everything carefully.
What i mean is solderin tin, wich one is best for the job.
And what flux.

I have done 3 swiches before, but the flux i used becomes stick and brownish.

What tin and wire can you reccomend.

 

[de9ed]

use amtech no clean flux or chinese no clean

63/37 solder tin

0.1 or 0.2 enamel wire

Th

Thank you,
I have read everything carefully.
What i mean is solderin tin, wich one is best for the job.
And what flux.

I have done 3 swiches before, but the flux i used becomes stick and brownish.

What tin and wire can you reccomend.

 

[taxco]

use amtech no clean flux or chinese no clean

63/37 solder tin

0.1 or 0.2 enamel wire

Than you v much

 

[steve_fox]

This is the essentially same as the RCMx86 on this thread but on a different PCB, has anyone used one?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...1;11.02;-1;-1@salePrice;GBP;search-mainSearch

 

[juanvlc]

This is the essentially same as the RCMx86 on this thread but on a different PCB, has anyone used one?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...1;11.02;-1;-1@salePrice;GBP;search-mainSearch

Yes, same pinout as green ones or black ones but without reset pushbutton. You must short reset and ground pin twice to program or use a magnet

 

[steve_fox]

I've been reading over this a lot, soldering it up is no problem for me but I'm mega confused about the software side no matter how many times I read it.

I'm also unsure if I should go for the cheaper x86 or buy a trinket M0.

The guide talks about part 1 and part 2 but ALL links for ALL board types are dead for part 1 and only part 2 links work, do I need part 1?

What files do I need please?

Is there a noobs guide to flashing, I just want the basic CFW or Stock depending on power up condition chosen and not interested in messing with the deeper options I see can be configured.


Thanks and sorry for being dumb lol

 

[binkinator]

I've been reading over this a lot, soldering it up is no problem for me but I'm mega confused about the software side no matter how many times I read it.

I'm also unsure if I should go for the cheaper x86 or buy a trinket M0.

The guide talks about part 1 and part 2 but ALL links for ALL board types are dead for part 1 and only part 2 links work, do I need part 1?

What files do I need please?

Is there a noobs guide to flashing, I just want the basic CFW or Stock depending on power up condition chosen and not interested in messing with the deeper options I see can be configured.


Thanks and sorry for being dumb lol

you must have both part 1 (to set up how the device itself works) and part 2 (the payload.)

should be able to get them from the links. If not, there’s a GitHub. Failing that I have copies of the source I’ll send you (it won’t come to tha….just saying you’re covered.)

both chips are within price range of each other. I chose the trinket M0 because I found more docs for it, but the x86 has it’s own GitHub as well so it’s really what you can get your hands on. They all function pretty much the same so you can’t go wrong.

Here are both sets of UF2 files:

https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE

https://github.com/mattytrog/MODCHIP_LATEST

 

[binkinator]

Based on his github, it looks like @mattytrog is coming back?

https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE

Anybody know his new GBAtemp name?

 

[steve_fox]

Based on his github, it looks like @mattytrog is coming back?

https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE

Anybody know his new GBAtemp name?

Thanks!

Those links you gave work but point to the same Github account as the dead links, i guess he has pulled the files from the dead links but not updated things, this is the dead link for the Trinket, same account but very different path: https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_...rt_1/Trinket/FUSEE_SUITE_TRINKET.uf2?raw=true

Instead of things just being called part 1 and part 2, i see part 1 has Bootloader next to it, that makes more sense now, it does not mention that its the boot loader on the software thread for this project and even suggests some might not want to use part 1 which confused me.

When it comes to flashing the bootloader and then the firmware, are they both done using the same software tool and is there a specific hardware tool needed for flashing I have hardware tools to flash most standards, standard serial, SPI, ST link ect but it looks like its done using USB and the IC's have their own internal interface am i correct?

i have browsed a bit and havent seen how you put the boards into flashmode, do they get put into that state by the software or do you have to put a pin high/low?

Hmmm, what board, what board, the X86 is cheaper and having a remote status led is easy but the trinket is better quality and the RGB led seems to provide better status info, im leaning towards the trinket......

 

[binkinator]

Thanks!

Those links you gave work but point to the same Github account as the dead links, i guess he has pulled the files from the dead links but not updated things, this is the dead link for the Trinket, same account but very different path: https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_...rt_1/Trinket/FUSEE_SUITE_TRINKET.uf2?raw=true

Instead of things just being called part 1 and part 2, i see part 1 has Bootloader next to it, that makes more sense now, it does not mention that its the boot loader on the software thread for this project and even suggests some might not want to use part 1 which confused me.

Yeah, the original author took a 2 year hiatus. I’ve actually never spoken to the man directly yet he’s taught me so much with his historical posts. We all owe him a great deal and I gotta say I’m kinda fan_boying out over here waiting for him to make his presence known. Can’t wait to say thanks!

Anywho he states on his GitHub that he lost his @mattytrog account AND is doing some house cleaning of his code so that’s why things are moving around. No big…you discovered their new hiding place and I can tell it’s starting to click for you. :-)

When it comes to flashing the bootloader and then the firmware, are they both done using the same software tool and is there a specific hardware tool needed for flashing I have hardware tools to flash most standards, standard serial, SPI, ST link ect but it looks like its done using USB and the IC's have their own internal interface am i correct?

it’s done via a USB cable and a Windows folder mount. Seriously…no tools…stupid simple in its elegance yet powerfully effective and flexible for those who want more customization later down the road.

i have browsed a bit and havent seen how you put the boards into flashmode, do they get put into that state by the software or do you have to put a pin high/low?

This one is tricky…yiu double click rest. No. Seriously. That’s it.

Hmmm, what board, what board, the X86 is cheaper and having a remote status led is easy but the trinket is better quality and the RGB led seems to provide better status info, im leaning towards the trinket......

I personally think you’re making the right choice. I went with trinket myself. It‘s a few dollars but has everything you need and theres a ton of docs about it around the web that help yiu understand this double UF2 concept. It‘s the most confusing part about this project until you realize the UF2 #1 is kinda like the container for UF2 #2. At least that’s how I finally imagined it and it started making sense…

 

[Hayato213]

Based on his github, it looks like @mattytrog is coming back?

https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE

Anybody know his new GBAtemp name?

Yeah it seem he forgot his password, I remember Chary said as long he can proof who he is they will reset the password for him.

 

[binkinator]

Yeah it seem he forgot his password, I remember Chary said as long he can proof who he is they will reset the password for him.

Should be easy enough to prove. A simple passport photo should suffice. His ‘ead has got to be the size of Sputnik to contain his massive brain.
Ayup! That’s our Matty…just look at his glorious bean!

 

[binkinator]

Yeah it seem he forgot his password, I remember Chary said as long he can proof who he is they will reset the password for him.

He should post a note to Chary on his github. That should do the trick. Maybe post an update with the latest Hekate (not that anyone would use it over his new and improved version…but the skills to do it quickly are likely limited to about 5 people in the world right now.)

 

[Hayato213]

He should post a note to Chary on his github. That should do the trick. Maybe post an update with the latest Hekate (not that anyone would use it over his new and improved version…but the skills to do it quickly are likely limited to about 5 people in the world right now.)

Well hopefully he can get his account back, dude is talented.

 

[steve_fox]

Yeah, the original author took a 2 year hiatus. I’ve actually never spoken to the man directly yet he’s taught me so much with his historical posts. We all owe him a great deal and I gotta say I’m kinda fan_boying out over here waiting for him to make his presence known. Can’t wait to say thanks!

Anywho he states on his GitHub that he lost his @mattytrog account AND is doing some house cleaning of his code so that’s why things are moving around. No big…you discovered their new hiding place and I can tell it’s starting to click for you. :-)



it’s done via a USB cable and a Windows folder mount. Seriously…no tools…stupid simple in its elegance yet powerfully effective and flexible for those who want more customization later down the road.



This one is tricky…yiu double click rest. No. Seriously. That’s it.



I personally think you’re making the right choice. I went with trinket myself. It‘s a few dollars but has everything you need and theres a ton of docs about it around the web that help yiu understand this double UF2 concept. It‘s the most confusing part about this project until you realize the UF2 #1 is kinda like the container for UF2 #2. At least that’s how I finally imagined it and it started making sense…

So I understand this right, double click reset, drag and drop part one into mounted drive that board generates , restart then double click reset again and do the same with part two and its done?

That is simple lol.

I'm ordering the trinket in a second, I've decided on that board

 

[binkinator]

So I understand this right, double click reset, drag and drop part one into mounted drive that board generates , restart then double click reset again and do the same with part two and its done?

That is simple lol.

I'm ordering the trinket in a second, I've decided on that board

yeah, and every question is asked and answered in the two (hardware+software) threads. You’ll be happy with your choice. GL man!

 

[steve_fox]

yeah, and every question is asked and answered in the two (hardware+software) threads. You’ll be happy with your choice. GL man!

Ive ordered now, just gotta wait for it to come from China.

The removal of the USB socket on the trinket is for clearance inside the switch and not electrical isn't it?

I'm correct in thinking that from a powered off state, the switch will boot to the stock firmware from a simple power button power up without the vol being pressed as well, it only does something when it detects RCM?

Am I correct I only need to put part 1 and 2 on the board, there are no cfw specific files I need?

 

[binkinator]

Ive ordered now, just gotta wait for it to come from China.

The removal of the USB socket on the trinket is for clearance inside the switch and not electrical isn't it?

yes…just need those couple extra mm’s. A rework station melts it right off and you just lift it away with tweezers.

I'm correct in thinking that from a powered off state, the switch will boot to the stock firmware from a simple power button power up without the vol being pressed as well, it only does something when it detects RCM?

If you do all straps it will do RCM for you too. You can set it up to autoboot CFW. Mine boots Atmosphere from a complete power off by only pressing ON. Everything is default automatic but I can interupt each stage if I want (such as Hekate) via Vol buttons. This includes the Trinket firmware BTW. All automated unless I want to interrupt and playnwith things.

Am I correct I only need to put part 1 and 2 on the board, there are no cfw specific files I need?

Correct! Set it and forget it. It actually boots whatever you name as payload.bin. This can be anything. Mine boots up ArgonNX (which then passes to Hekate by default or SXOS as an option). This way you only update the payload.bin as needed…never the Trinket. I literally forget I have it In. It makes everything seamless.

 

[peteruk]

I really hope Matty can find his way back to this site, he was one of the best people I've come across in any of the 'scenes' I've been involved with for decades.... I miss chatting to him, hopefully he'll be back soon.