Hardware N3DS NAND backup possible, I hope.

[mitroux]

if you own a laptop , you can try the same methode , use first the good ad card reader , once you see the blue screen , remove the card and insert it to your laptop , if everything goes well , windows will ask you to format the new drive( hhh don't format)

 

[AlbertoSONIC]

Mmm Ok I try this now

EDIT: Nothing... But yeah, with the new adapter the bluescreen popped out once I pressed the power button, with the old one there's a delay

if you own a laptop , you can try the same methode , use first the good ad card reader , once you see the blue screen , remove the card and insert it to your laptop , if everything goes well , windows will ask you to format the new drive( hhh don't format)

I can't insert the sd in the laptop, the sd got a little bit thick due to the solderings...

 

[mitroux]

huh? got thick for just 4 wires?
don't glue the top of the sd card cover , just use a smale piece of tape

 

[AlbertoSONIC]

huh? got thick for just 4 wires?
don't glue the top of the sd card cover , just use a smale piece of tape

 

[mashers]

I can confirm that the Plugable USB 3.0 Multi-Card Reader (USB3-FLASH3) was able to read and write my New 3DS NAND. It's currently (almost) half price at Amazon UK:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00E2UTU3W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

It's even cheaper in the US:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Supe...r=8-1&keywords=plugable+usb+multi+card+reader

@Avalynn
Can this be updated on the OP?

 

[urherenow]

.

Holy crap, dude! What kind of wire did you use? You only need 30awg. I just took the whole adapter apart then used a small bit of hot glue to stick it together (no need to chop it up like that) so the wires happily come out of the original mSD hole and it's no thicker than it was when I started.

EDIT: Yours does look like it would still fit in an ANKER AR200 though. It works perfect for my N3ds (but not o3ds... I have a different one for that).

 

[N64]

Holy crap, dude! What kind of wire did you use? You only need 30awg. I just took the whole adapter apart then used a small bit of hot glue to stick it together (no need to chop it up like that) so the wires happily come out of the original mSD hole and it's no thicker than it was when I started.

EDIT: Yours does look like it would still fit in an ANKER AR200 though. It works perfect for my N3ds (but not o3ds... I have a different one for that).

What do you use for o3ds?

 

[AlbertoSONIC]

An american amazon.com 7$ adapter costs 168€ in italy :/

 

[EmceeKerser]

An american amazon.com 7$ adapter costs 168€ in italy :/

Your adapter is most likely the issue. Shell out the extra money for an ander reader or something

 

[urherenow]

What do you use for o3ds?

I use a Vivitar 50 in 1 reader from the camera section of my local store. I don't think there is a specific model number on it though. I'm at work so I'll have to maybe edit this post later with the chipset that's in it.

 

[AaricChavez]

So, I am having a rough time getting this working, on my N3DS XL. On my O3DS XL it worked perfectly the first try. This I have tried over and over and over and I just can't seem to get the computer to recognize the darn thing. I tried multiple adapters I already had on hand and then ordered the TekRepublic one suggested in the first post. I even popped that open to verify it wasn't a different revision and had a different chipset or something. I get the blue screen but I just can't seem to get to that final step. Anything I might be missing, or that I can try? I've attached pictures.

Pic notes: I'm using wire wrap wire which worked on my O3DS XL. I'm sure that all the wires are soldered to correct lines on SD adapter, i've traced physically and tested for continuity. Yes, GND is soldered on other side. Yes, I have casing for the SD adapter. And the mess on the wires is from a dab of hot glue I put on initially and pulled off when it wasn't working.

 

[urherenow]

So, I am having a rough time getting this working, on my N3DS XL. On my O3DS XL it worked perfectly the first try. This I have tried over and over and over and I just can't seem to get the computer to recognize the darn thing. I tried multiple adapters I already had on hand and then ordered the TekRepublic one suggested in the first post. I even popped that open to verify it wasn't a different revision and had a different chipset or something. I get the blue screen but I just can't seem to get to that final step. Anything I might be missing, or that I can try? I've attached pictures.

Pic notes: I'm using wire wrap wire which worked on my O3DS XL. I'm sure that all the wires are soldered to correct lines on SD adapter, i've traced physically and tested for continuity. Yes, GND is soldered on other side. Yes, I have casing for the SD adapter. And the mess on the wires is from a dab of hot glue I put on initially and pulled off when it wasn't working.

First, that's a pretty messy solder job. Are you sure none of those wires are shorting across other traces?

Second... you really should have shown us the ground as well. It looks to me like you used ground from the power connector, and that would EXACTLY be your problem, if that's the case. Trust me. That's what I did on my first N3DS and spent days trying to figure it out until I ended up pulling a pad off of the MB while attempting to de-solder a wire. Permanent brick. Silver pen can't fix it. Blob of solder can't fix it...

anyway, use the recommended ground point on the bottom left of the board.

https://gbatemp.net/attachments/usabegnd-jpg.15698/

Edit: on second thought, maybe you didn't do that. But why is everything in 1 piece? I can't tell how long the wires are, but too long and it won't work right either, and can also keep you on the blue screen even when not connected to a reader. There is also a much better CLK point on the other side as well. Try using that, if you're using the correct ground point.
https://gbatemp.net/attachments/altclk-jpg.17926/

 

[AaricChavez]

First, that's a pretty messy solder job. Are you sure none of those wires are shorting across other traces?

Second... you really should have shown us the ground as well. It looks to me like you used ground from the power connector, and that would EXACTLY be your problem, if that's the case. Trust me. That's what I did on my first N3DS and spent days trying to figure it out until I ended up pulling a pad off of the MB while attempting to de-solder a wire. Permanent brick. Silver pen can't fix it. Blob of solder can't fix it...

anyway, use the recommended ground point on the bottom left of the board.

Well, like I mentioned in my post, there is mess from hot glue, and i've also soldered and desoldered these wires about 20 times over the past two weeks trying to get this working. So, while I think for my last 30 second attempt before I begrudgingly desoldered everything and cleaned up the pads I think they were ok(especially compared to others i've seen). Obviously my final job would have been cleaner. I tested for continuity across the lines and they were all fine. And the device turned on and worked fully when no card reader was attached. No mask has been scratched off or anything, so the wires weren't touching anything else.
I used the suggested ground on the other side, thus I felt no need to take a picture of that. I did read(I know some people don't) before I started. And I even saw a post that said these are finicky and sometimes it takes many tries, and i've tried many times lol.
I also used waaay longer wiring when I initially did my O3DS XL and that worked fine.

As a side note, I've never had luck with the circuit writer pens, even on single layer boards. For small torn traces and pads I usually run that super super thin enamel coated wire.

 

[urherenow]

As a side note, I've never had luck with the circuit writer pens, even on single layer boards. For small torn traces and pads I usually run that super super thin enamel coated wire.

But I see nothing to solder it to under where the pad was. I'm pretty sure it was a micro-via or something. Anyway, that old system is only good for spare parts.

Did you try the alternate CLK though? That's what I'm using. And not being an EE, I'm not sure why there are 3 points in a series for the CLK on that side or if it matters that you used the one that you used, vice the one on the left (I know the OP suggests to, I'm just sayin'). Anyway, I can say the single large point on the other side of the board works.

And continuity isn't always a good indicator. When I was (stupidly) using the power connector for ground, my ground wire seemed to have continuity from the SD card adapter to all shielding and every ground point. Certainly didn't work with power applied though. I might be one of the reasons why this was added to the OP:

 

[AaricChavez]

But I see nothing to solder it to under where the pad was. I'm pretty sure it was a micro-via or something. Anyway, that old system is only good for spare parts.

Did you try the alternate CLK though? That's what I'm using. And not being an EE, I'm not sure why there are 3 points in a series for the CLK on that side or if it matters that you used the one that you used, vice the one on the left (I know the OP suggests to, I'm just sayin'). Anyway, I can say the single large point on the other side of the board works.

And continuity isn't always a good indicator. When I was (stupidly) using the power connector for ground, my ground wire seemed to have continuity from the SD card adapter to all shielding and every ground point. Certainly didn't work with power applied though. I might be one of the reasons why this was added to the OP:

Alright, so I spent some time trying with the alt CLK point, and still blue screen and nothing. I'm going to bring my personal laptop from home and try with that before I call it quits.

 

[Cydget]

what if they made a sticker that had all the contacts so all you would have to do is place it on the 3ds instead of soldering? <---- free business idea if anybody wants it.

 

[EmceeKerser]

what if they made a sticker that had all the contacts so all you would have to do is place it on the 3ds instead of soldering? <---- free business idea if anybody wants it.

What

 

[Cydget]

What

Imagine a ribbon cable "patch" that that you place on the mother board so you dont have to solder.

 

[EmceeKerser]

Imagine a ribbon cable "patch" that that you place on the mother board so you dont have to solder.

How would it attach to the points?

 

[Cydget]

How would it attach to the points?

I was thinking there would be metal contacts on the bottom aligned to where they should be. Maybe it could be more extruded at the point of connection to give it a better chance of not falling off, because "glue/sticker backs" are not known to be long lasting or dependable.