iFixit says plastic is only held in with tabs, but the metal chasis is is held togethor using t10.
Hardware Non-permanent RRoD?
- Thread starter CIAwesome526
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Yes the plastic is held by clips, and yes the metal chasis have t10 screws. If you have a screwdriver with mixed bits, theres probably the t10 to.
If you dont have it, you can probably find one at the dollar store but check in your or your dad's drill box, maybe you have one around the house.. its just a screwdriver after all
I thought it had a little circle in the middle. I have tons of screwdrivers, but none like that.Yes the plastic is held by clips, and yes the metal chasis have t10 screws. If you have a screwdriver with mixed bits, theres probably the t10 to.
If you dont have it, you can probably find one at the dollar store but check in your or your dad's drill box, maybe you have one around the house.. its just a screwdriver after all
So I got my console open. But I dont have a heat gun, since I broke mine. I read that one guy opened his Xbox and removed the GPU heat sink but left the fans and CPU heat sink on and just let the GPU fry. Similar to the towel trick but without harming every other price of the console. Would this work?
Please stop. I am NOT spending any Money on xboxs. I have a jasper. I just want to repair this in order to sell it.
No shouldnt overheat the cpu like this..
Some people that dont have a heatgun do it in the oven, but you need to protect the rest of the board by putting a layer of alluminium around the all board except the cpu and gpu, then you put a wet clothes on top of the alluminium, then you literelly bake it.. but its not really the greatest way to it, but if you prepare correctly your board for it, it will be okay.
Look on google for rrod reflow with oven.. but dont forget that its truly important to protect the rest of the board with multiple layers, with one layer that is wet to not burn the place
Then you let it cool down, and when you put the heatsinks and fan back, do a small bridge with tape, between the fan's white plastic tunnel and the gpu's heatsink, that way it will bring a better airflow.
Some people that dont have a heatgun do it in the oven, but you need to protect the rest of the board by putting a layer of alluminium around the all board except the cpu and gpu, then you put a wet clothes on top of the alluminium, then you literelly bake it.. but its not really the greatest way to it, but if you prepare correctly your board for it, it will be okay.
Look on google for rrod reflow with oven.. but dont forget that its truly important to protect the rest of the board with multiple layers, with one layer that is wet to not burn the place
Then you let it cool down, and when you put the heatsinks and fan back, do a small bridge with tape, between the fan's white plastic tunnel and the gpu's heatsink, that way it will bring a better airflow.
Isn't water... Bad for electronics? Do I leave it in rice or something after, or just let it dry. I don't want to fix the cold solder joint just to have it short out on me.No shouldnt overheat the cpu like this..
Some people that dont have a heatgun do it in the oven, but you need to protect the rest of the board by putting a layer of alluminium around the all board except the cpu and gpu, then you put a wet clothes on top of the alluminium, then you literelly bake it.. but its not really the greatest way to it, but if you prepare correctly your board for it, it will be okay.
Look on google for rrod reflow with oven.. but dont forget that its truly important to protect the rest of the board with multiple layers, with one layer that is wet to not burn the place
Then you let it cool down, and when you put the heatsinks and fan back, do a small bridge with tape, between the fan's white plastic tunnel and the gpu's heatsink, that way it will bring a better airflow.
Ye water is bad, this is why you have to put other dry layers under it, the wet clothes is not suppose to touch the boad, you can also wrap the last layer with allumium foil to make sure the clothes isnt directly into the heat..
Yup, ..but instead of towels, you should use old clothes.. towel will be to thick..
But be aware that there are temperatures and time you need to respect! Because you have to reach the soldering melting point, but without leaving it long because we dont want to make a 'soldering pancake' under the chips.. just need to give a quick melt to replace the soldering underneath the chips.
So you should make a quick search before doing it, about the temps and time people leave it in the oven!
..i'm not held responsible if you burn your motherboard or if you burn down your house..so take time to do it properly and watch it all the time of the process!
Take your time, good luck!
EDIT: oh and also, when its done, dont remove it immediatly from te oven, leave the oven door open and let the board rest for atleast 2 minutes, to make sur the solders had time to harden before manipulating the board!
Ok, so I'm done... And the board smells bad, but it's not too strong.the solder points don't look as if they've melted. I don't have any thermal paste, I left the old stuff on on accident, so I dont know how to test it... If I put the heat sinks on, will it be safe to turn it on briefly to see if it boots or if it's done for.Yup, ..but instead of towels, you should use old clothes.. towel will be to thick..
But be aware that there are temperatures and time you need to respect! Because you have to reach the soldering melting point, but without leaving it long because we dont want to make a 'soldering pancake' under the chips.. just need to give a quick melt to replace the soldering underneath the chips.
So you should make a quick search before doing it, about the temps and time people leave it in the oven!
..i'm not held responsible if you burn your motherboard or if you burn down your house..so take time to do it properly and watch it all the time of the process!
Take your time, good luck!
EDIT: oh and also, when its done, dont remove it immediatly from te oven, leave the oven door open and let the board rest for atleast 2 minutes, to make sur the solders had time to harden before manipulating the board!
Yah the smell is kinda normal lol..
And the solder points wont show visually if they melted, they are underneath the chips.
As for thermal paste, you should have cleaned it off completly before baking it.. it wont disperce heat correctly, its even possile that it wont conduct the heat at all if its baked on it..
Use friction alchool and q-tip to remove it, then you could buy, if you dont have any, some thermal paste between 3 - 8$ .. arctic silver is a great one, but if you dont intend to keep it long, you can buy cheap one. And you dont need to apply a lot, less then a grain of rice.
And yes its safe (kinda..) to put the heatsinks back on and try it, but there's 90% chances that it will still rrod since the thermal paste asnt been re-applied.
And i suggest you use other screws to hold the heatsinks to the board, since the x-clamp will be a nighmare to put them back tight..
And the solder points wont show visually if they melted, they are underneath the chips.
As for thermal paste, you should have cleaned it off completly before baking it.. it wont disperce heat correctly, its even possile that it wont conduct the heat at all if its baked on it..
Use friction alchool and q-tip to remove it, then you could buy, if you dont have any, some thermal paste between 3 - 8$ .. arctic silver is a great one, but if you dont intend to keep it long, you can buy cheap one. And you dont need to apply a lot, less then a grain of rice.
And yes its safe (kinda..) to put the heatsinks back on and try it, but there's 90% chances that it will still rrod since the thermal paste asnt been re-applied.
And i suggest you use other screws to hold the heatsinks to the board, since the x-clamp will be a nighmare to put them back tight..
And I tried to remove the
So leaving it on didn't/won't affect the processor, right? I tried to remove the paste using some rubbing alcohol, but it isn't working.
Well, it wont affect the chips directly, but it wont comduct the heat to the heatsink..so it will still overheat after 2 seconds..
Never bake a motherboard with hermal paste on it
You need to clean the plates on the cpu and gpu before relying new thermal paste. Thermal paste is for conducting the heat to the heatsink, ao if theres a dryied layer, it will not conduct it..
..using rubbing alchool removes it easyly BEFORE heating the board..
..now that its baked, good luck removing it! But still..you could try wth some nail polisher remover, its stronger..
Never bake a motherboard with hermal paste on it
You need to clean the plates on the cpu and gpu before relying new thermal paste. Thermal paste is for conducting the heat to the heatsink, ao if theres a dryied layer, it will not conduct it..
..using rubbing alchool removes it easyly BEFORE heating the board..
..now that its baked, good luck removing it! But still..you could try wth some nail polisher remover, its stronger..
Sure, "fix" a defective system and sell it off to another unfortunate buyer who'll have no idea that he or she is buying a fire hazard - now that's what I call a douchebag dickhead move. Honestly, I'd feel bad selling merchandise that I know is faulty and I know it'll fail on my customer, and soon too. God forbid that customer does what you're planning to do, screws it up and makes his flat catch fire because he had the brilliant idea of baking electronics, except he left them in the oven for a little too long.
You can bake the system in foil (I don't know why you'd use any, just fluxing around the chip, wiping the excess and baking it in an oven would be fine), you can equip it with a quadrillion of fans, each with a bazillion blades, you can add copper shims, you can change the paste to most expensive Arctic Silver you can find, but at the end of the day the Xbox will still RRoD because it's the solder under the chip or, worse yet, the the chip itself that's faulty. It will always screw up unless you spend big bucks on either modifying the whole system, reballing it properly with solder that doesn't suck or both, and even that might be ineffective if it's overheating badly.
@DinohScene is probably right, he's a true 360 expert. That system belongs in the bin or should be stripped for spares. If you want to repair it, don't pass it on - you're just causing someone else to suffer from the problem.
You can bake the system in foil (I don't know why you'd use any, just fluxing around the chip, wiping the excess and baking it in an oven would be fine), you can equip it with a quadrillion of fans, each with a bazillion blades, you can add copper shims, you can change the paste to most expensive Arctic Silver you can find, but at the end of the day the Xbox will still RRoD because it's the solder under the chip or, worse yet, the the chip itself that's faulty. It will always screw up unless you spend big bucks on either modifying the whole system, reballing it properly with solder that doesn't suck or both, and even that might be ineffective if it's overheating badly.
@DinohScene is probably right, he's a true 360 expert. That system belongs in the bin or should be stripped for spares. If you want to repair it, don't pass it on - you're just causing someone else to suffer from the problem.
foxi, tottally agree..its a dickmove unless you keep it for your own gaming, or atleast tell the buyer about the history of this console's rrod and sell it for only 40$.
As for the oven, of course you need to cover it carefully if you dont want to burn other components on the board, why the hell would you only use flux? The rest of the board will be vulnerable..unless you meant completly dipping the board in a flux bath
...and beside, if stuff catch in fire its because its not properly made! Someone who makes it catch on fire will probably be the kind of guy who cant cook a chicken without burning it
Anyway, the point here, is that the guy bought it for 10$ and doesnt have a reballing station, so baking it properly can ''depanne'' for what its worth.
As for the oven, of course you need to cover it carefully if you dont want to burn other components on the board, why the hell would you only use flux? The rest of the board will be vulnerable..unless you meant completly dipping the board in a flux bath
...and beside, if stuff catch in fire its because its not properly made! Someone who makes it catch on fire will probably be the kind of guy who cant cook a chicken without burning it
Anyway, the point here, is that the guy bought it for 10$ and doesnt have a reballing station, so baking it properly can ''depanne'' for what its worth.
Perhaps my experience with "baking" is slightly different since I'm more familiar with the procedure done on PS3 motherboards where none of the permanently attached components could accidentally "melt", maybe it's a tad different with the 360. I personally wouldn't put electronics that could possibly "melt" into my oven - foil does very little in the realm of protecting from heat since it conducts it very easily - it's thin and made of aluminim, a metal commonly used in cooling systems specifically due to its thermal capabilities. I guess it does shield the board from direct exposure to the heat source, but I wouldn't count on it being effective. Frankly, I wouldn't even bake the whole motherboard - I'd sooner use a heat gun on the specific faulty chip in question and avoid the whole hack 'n slash kerfuffle. As for the flux, "a flux bath" wouldn't do you well anyways as flux is used specifically to lower the melting point of solder - bathing the whole board would make all the solder melt.foxi, tottally agree..its a dickmove unless you keep it for your own gaming, or atleast tell the buyer about the history of this console's rrod and sell it for only 40$.
As for the oven, of course you need to cover it carefully if you dont want to burn other components on the board, why the hell would you only use flux? The rest of the board will be vulnerable..unless you meant completly dipping the board in a flux bath
...and beside, if stuff catch in fire its because its not properly made! Someone who makes it catch on fire will probably be the kind of guy who cant cook a chicken without burning it
Anyway, the point here, is that the guy bought it for 10$ and doesnt have a reballing station, so baking it properly can ''depanne'' for what its worth.
Yes ofcourse a heatgun is proper for this kinds job since you can directly direct the heat where you want, but the oven trick is just a ''quick'' solution for people who dont have the proper equipment. Its a way proper method then the freakin towel trick XD
And yes thin foil is not a big protector, read my previous post, the thin foil is to separate the other layers, wich are not obligatory, but its a good option to prevent the worse and to do it properly with owned equipments..
..When you like to do things right even when you have to use ''quick'' methods, you tend to make it the more properly as possible
As for the components that can melt..its really a matter of melting them.. its to avoid to melt solders that doesnt need it and most of all, to avoid popping any capacitor batteries etc.. wich btw, can also happen with a heatgun if not protected correctly
If you dont use thin foil and others layers, might aswell to the towel trick, it will make the same damages
And yes thin foil is not a big protector, read my previous post, the thin foil is to separate the other layers, wich are not obligatory, but its a good option to prevent the worse and to do it properly with owned equipments..
..When you like to do things right even when you have to use ''quick'' methods, you tend to make it the more properly as possible
As for the components that can melt..its really a matter of melting them.. its to avoid to melt solders that doesnt need it and most of all, to avoid popping any capacitor batteries etc.. wich btw, can also happen with a heatgun if not protected correctly
If you dont use thin foil and others layers, might aswell to the towel trick, it will make the same damages
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