Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Hassal

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This should address the issues I noticed. Should be perfect now.

EDIT: Adapter was a little tricky routing the lines in the same fill. Thickness can go as little as 0.07mm for single layers so its very suited for these applications.

And of course my job is done here. I hope I haven't wasted my time and people will make something out of it.

EDIT2: Probably my last update. After installing a couple of these flexes under the chip I just realized a major flaw, since some pressure could be required this could lead to an uneven surface because of partial coverage. I have extended the flex for more surface coverage.
 

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  • McFLEX AdapterV2.1.zip
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  • McFLEX Adapter V2.2.zip
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  • McFLEX Adapter V2.2.png
    McFLEX Adapter V2.2.png
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Last edited by Hassal,
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RigoHoward

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Hey guys, i installed an rp2040 on a v2 nintendo switch, a few weeks ago and everything was working fine until yesterday.

i turn on the console and notice it boots directly to the sysnandofw (it was configured to boot to emunand cfw)

I take off the back cover and i noticed on boot sequence the rp2040 leds show blue light, green light and then 2 long yellow pulses and one short yellow pulse.

According to github it could be a mosfet problem, but since i used an hwfly cpu flex, i dont know exatly how and what to check.

Looking at my microscope, the solder joints on the cpu caps looks good, and also the cable from the flex its properly soldered to the 2 central pins

The installstion uses 0.2mm enameled copper wire, i use the resistors too. For 3.3v and gnd inused kynar cable
 

Krdza93

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Hello,

My switch was working fine for months and then after restart, no more cfw, boots directly in OFW.

Checked the wires, all good, and LED is flashing long blue then 2x short green for 3x.

What can it be?
 

BlueBeans

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And it works well? What kind of switch is that?

Also, the switch that I reballed seems to be booting into hekate real slow. Know a way to fix it? Benchmark results are good for the emmc.
Post automatically merged:

And it works well? What kind of switch is that?

Also, the switch that I reballed seems to be booting into hekate real slow. Know a way to fix it? Benchmark results are good for the emmc.
Post automatically merged:

And it works well? What kind of switch is that?

Also, the switch that I reballed seems to be booting into hekate real slow. Know a way to fix it? Benchmark results are good for the emmc.
 

Mirivedan

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I dropped the capacitor of switch lite 3.3V. Does anyone know what the specification is?
hey do you have the specs i need it too THX
Post automatically merged:

Hi all.


Anyone know what is the value of this 3.3v capacitor on the switch lite motherboard?Thanks in advance.View attachment 363663
Hey do you have the answer i need it too THKs
 

deeps

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I’ll have to give it a try when I run out of cables. How’s your oled running that you reballed? Mine takes about 10-20 secs to boot into hekate. Which is the slowest I’ve ever seen.

I've done about 20 of those (with green reball adapter) - most boot quick, some a bit slower. seems quite random. the worst one (up to a minute boot time) was fixed by changing mosfet position.
 

QuiTim

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Actually not. What are the other options?

View attachment 403782
While there is an unlikely possibility that you have a short at point 1, you should know that dat0 usually disconnects at the X spot (so the point making contact with the dat0 ball under emmc), thats why it's so difficult to troubleshoot and the recommended way to set this point is by reballing the emmc.
 

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Krdza93

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While there is an unlikely possibility that you have a short at point 1, you should know that dat0 usually disconnects at the X spot (so the point making contact with the dat0 ball under emmc), thats why it's so difficult to troubleshoot and the recommended way to set this point is by reballing the emmc.
Nope, there is no short on point 1 - reballing did not help
 
Last edited by Krdza93,
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SkullHex2

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Most likely the dat0 adapter lost contact.
Since you don't do this kind of installations yourself you will need send it back to the installer and tell him to fix the dat0 point. If possible he should do it properly by setting a permanent dat0 point (reball the emmc).
Here's a rough translation of what they told me after showing them the video and telling them what you think the issue is
it's related to the flat you put underneath the NAND
Maybe it's lost contact because of shipping and whatnot
[…]
I avoid [reballing] because there's no need, and it's very risky
I could go for a reflow to attach the flat, but I've never needed it
[…]
I only need to set the point on the NAND again
I think I'll weld it this time
This isn't the first one I solder, but even without soldering it works good
[…]
I avoid [reballing] because there's a risk to damage the NAND, and with the latest flats the point can be set even without soldering
Keep in mind that English is not my mother tongue, and even in my mother tongue I'm having a hard time to choose some verb instead of another, as this field is very far from the stuff I normally use English for.
Let me know how hard I should push for a reballing. I could even try to offer them more money than I already have, but given how easygoing you are when suggesting reballing and how stubborn they are in doing anything but reballing, I'm afraid it could be too much to handle for them (or they could simply think it isn't actually needed, in which case I would have no way to convince them other than mentioning what you say here).
 
Last edited by SkullHex2,

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