Hardware YLOD :(

[Teep]

So... my PS3 got a YLOD. From what I gather there are 3 different types - power supply issues, blu-ray drive issues and motherboard issues. The third one being fixable via reflowing. Now, I got the identical symptoms as gilksy in the video, except that sometimes the console won't even try to eject the disc, it just gives me 3 beeps when pressing eject, the light doesn't even flash afterwards. If I try to boot it up afterwards, then it tries ejecting the disc and the same thing happens.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Livin in a box]

When was your PS3 made; year?

 

[raulpica]

I've repaired mine by reflowing. Worked wonders for two months, then died again. Currently too lazy to dismount my PS3 again.

And mine did exactly the same thing as yours, no disc ejecting, and (iirc) 3 beeps.

Be aware that this is not an easy operation. If you don't have good expertise in these things, you just risk up destroying the odious micro-ribbon connectors or even worse frying up the entire motherboard trying to reflow it

 

[Teep]

When was your PS3 made; year?

2007 I believe, at least that's what the import year label on the box says. It's not been used very much though...



QUOTE(raulpica @ Sep 7 2010, 10:16 PM) I've repaired mine by reflowing. Worked wonders for two months, then died again. Currently too lazy to dismount my PS3 again.

And mine did exactly the same thing as yours, no disc ejecting, and (iirc) 3 beeps.

Be aware that this is not an easy operation. If you don't have good expertise in these things, you just risk up destroying the odious micro-ribbon connectors or even worse frying up the entire motherboard trying to reflow it

I'm not worried about that, I've done a lot of similar stuff in the past, but I was wondering if there's any distinction between the types of YLOD's... Also, are there any stories of reflowing being a permanent fix, or at least working for more than a year? I bought this second hand and I'd really much like to play it for at least a year before having to cash out for a brand new slim edition.

 

[Livin in a box]

It depends. If you use flux it and re-apply some decent thermal paste on too then it might last longer, but you'll just have to try. There are loads of guides on YouTube.

 

[raulpica]

I'm not worried about that, I've done a lot of similar stuff in the past, but I was wondering if there's any distinction between the types of YLOD's... Also, are there any stories of reflowing being a permanent fix, or at least working for more than a year? I bought this second hand and I'd really much like to play it for at least a year before having to cash out for a brand new slim edition.
Not that I know of. Nope, never heard something like that. But if it's like with 360s, it can resist for something variable from 2 weeks to 1 year or even more. It's just a question of luck.

QUOTE(Livin in a box @ Sep 7 2010, 11:02 PM) It depends. If you use flux it and re-apply some decent thermal paste on too then it might last longer, but you'll just have to try. There are loads of guides on YouTube.

Actually, I don't see how you can apply flux when reflowing a BGA soldering without removing anything

And you need expensive equipment to desolder completely BGA.

 

[Teep]

Another thing I noticed - when I plug in the power cord and turn on the unit, after a few seconds I get a very weak burning scent... could it be that it's the PSU rather than the mobo and that I'll have a working unit once that is replaced / fixed?

 

[raulpica]

Another thing I noticed - when I plug in the power cord and turn on the unit, after a few seconds I get a very weak burning scent... could it be that it's the PSU rather than the mobo and that I'll have a working unit once that is replaced / fixed?

I don't know the cause, but I can assure you that the burning scent isn't a good sign!

Sadly, YLOD is just a generic hardware error display. As for RROD on a 360, there can be different causes behind one (on a 360 you can get the secondary error code, which helps a bit, though

).

It could be practically everything. I'm just going by the fact that the most common cause for a YLOD is a BGA soldering which has went awry. Obviously, there's no certainty behind this affirmation, for this specific case.

I'd advise you to open the PS3 and check if there is some damage on the PSU, before buying one, as I fear they don't come cheap (if you find one for $10, well, then that's worth a try).

 

[Sc4rFac3d]

- Dismantle
- Use flux (the good kind from ebay)
- Reflow (practice on something else before you attempt this, put it on some solder for example to measure time)
- Use arctic Silver 5 (proper, watch videos please)

Did it once on my 60GB one year ago and it is still going strong. If you do it right you don't have to open it up again, it's much quieter too now and doesn't kick in the third stage fan until half hour in a game. I don't think mine will die again but if it does I'm gonna reball it with lead free solder.

 

[raulpica]

I still can't see how Flux can help without first removing the BGA soldering. And you actually need a BGA rework station for that.

BTW, RoHS-compliant [lead free] solder is actually a lot more prone than the leaded-one quality to breaking.

 

[Sc4rFac3d]

I still can't see how Flux can help without first removing the BGA soldering. And you actually need a BGA rework station for that.

BTW, RoHS-compliant [lead free] solder is actually a lot more prone than the leaded-one quality to breaking.

Yeah, I meant leaded solder. Typo

About the flux, if you see it disappearing from the sides of the bga it means it's being sucked in by the soldering which is a good sign from what I have experienced. So I guess it works just fine without removing it

 

[Teep]

The more I think about it the more I consider reballing to be a better solution right away. What do you guys think?

 

[raulpica]

Yeah, I meant leaded solder. Typo

About the flux, if you see it disappearing from the sides of the bga it means it's being sucked in by the soldering which is a good sign from what I have experienced. So I guess it works just fine without removing it
Flux is corrosive, that's why is advised to always clean it, after using it. I do not feel comfortable in using it under a BGA soldering. There's the risk that in the long run it'll do more damage than benefits.
I might still try doing it for the lulz on some cheap VGA card.


QUOTE(the_Predator @ Sep 8 2010, 01:44 AM) The more I think about it the more I consider reballing to be a better solution right away. What do you guys think?

Yeah, if done correctly, reballing can be a most definitive solution to these problems. Obviously, you have to use high-quality solder balls, and a good BGA reflowing station.

 

[Teep]

Well, apparently the fix here in the local sony service is cheaper than what I've heard on the internet... I suppose I should go with that as they also said they provide "protection" from it happening again.

 

[dilav]

Flux is corrosive, that's why is advised to always clean it, after using it. I do not feel comfortable in using it under a BGA soldering. There's the risk that in the long run it'll do more damage than benefits.
I might still try doing it for the lulz on some cheap VGA card.

They sell non corrosive flux, you also want one for lead free solder, that is if ps3 uses lead free solder. Im not positive if it does, I guess it does tho.

 

[raulpica]

Flux is corrosive, that's why is advised to always clean it, after using it. I do not feel comfortable in using it under a BGA soldering. There's the risk that in the long run it'll do more damage than benefits.
I might still try doing it for the lulz on some cheap VGA card.

They sell non corrosive flux, you also want one for lead free solder, that is if ps3 uses lead free solder. Im not positive if it does, I guess it does tho.

I'm still not comfortable with the idea of leaving so many residues under a soldering, may them be corrosive or not.
But to each one his own, I guess...

Yeah, since in Europe everything requires RoHS now, it's certain that it's lead-free solder.

QUOTE(the_Predator @ Sep 8 2010, 09:15 AM)

Well, apparently the fix here in the local sony service is cheaper than what I've heard on the internet... I suppose I should go with that as they also said they provide "protection" from it happening again.

If you don't have the necessary equipment (a hot air gun, a BGA rework station or whatever), then that might be more convenient for you, and most certainly a lot more resistant than whatever home-made solution you could come up with!