Picofly AIO Thread

Jehmyson

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no these are the right ones
Thanks!!

Yep, those are the ones. They do seem bigger in pictures though.
If you find it difficult to solder you can try some bigger ones, SOP8 casing like IRF8714, IRFH3707, IRF8736 (confirmed working) or give it a shot with AON7506, AON7518 (not confirmed yet but the specs are similar).
They have legs on the outside so it makes everything easier.
Valuable tips. I'll check the datasheets for each one. Thnks!!
 

Dee87

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AliExpress is starting to sell them now lol

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805289070238.html

Current price is 12 to 13 USD for just the board and 18 USD for the board with the flex cable.


Wow these damn thieves also have to steal everything.
Can't even write there own firmware and make money of f of it.

If hope nobody buys any rp2040 from them.
And supports these thieves from making money off of all the hard work other people had to make this project work.
 

master801

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Wow these damn thieves also have to steal everything.
Can't even write there own firmware and make money of f of it.

If hope nobody buys any rp2040 from them.
And supports these thieves from making money off of all the hard work other people had to make this project work.
Isn't the firmware for Picofly based off of decompiled code from some other person's work, though...?
 

Type_O_Dev

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please try to follow this way, your mosfet wiring is not solid enough

you can also wait for the v2.7 where the mosfet requirements might be drastically lowered (optional, will require more wires)
Good to hear, I tried again and still cyan. New wires and CPU wire is now only 3 inches (7.62 cm). As much as I am planning on waiting for 2.7 It bothers me to let it sit there. I've been making crap harder for myself, but that's how I learn :hateit:
I think I'll try your link 1 mosfet method.
 

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Ganesha0112

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Anyone know if it’s necessary cut the raspberry pi pico to use as picofly? Or just remove the components? Or just solder to the motherboard?
 

ojobenito

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Ok. Time to start my picofly installation. Just a quick question. I see a lot of people uses enamel thin wire (the one that is almost like a hair, similar [or maybe the same] used in coils). Is it mandatory to use that kind of wire? I have it, but I don't like working with that. I also have a 0,58mm AWG30 wire that I usually use for all my installations or retro console mods, even soldering to SMD components, and it feels robust, insulted, and the wire itself it's almost like a hair, too.
Any inconveniences in using one or another, or it doesn't matter? (the one I prefer is VERY thin too, it won't be a problem routing it inside the Switch.
 

QuiTim

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Ok. Time to start my picofly installation. Just a quick question. I see a lot of people uses enamel thin wire (the one that is almost like a hair, similar [or maybe the same] used in coils). Is it mandatory to use that kind of wire? I have it, but I don't like working with that. I also have a 0,58mm AWG30 wire that I usually use for all my installations or retro console mods, even soldering to SMD components, and it feels robust, insulted, and the wire itself it's almost like a hair, too.
Any inconveniences in using one or another, or it doesn't matter? (the one I prefer is VERY thin too, it won't be a problem routing it inside the Switch.
No problem, you can use any type of wire as long as you are comfortable working with it and you make sure you don't rip any components or traces, and since you have experience soldering to SMD I don't think that will be a problem for you.
You do however need to use at least 30-32awg on mosfet and 3v3 (maybe ground aswell).
Also 30awg should be closer to 0.25-0.3mm. If yours is 0.58 it might be to thick and difficult to use in this mod.
Good luck
 
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Dee87

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Ok. Time to start my picofly installation. Just a quick question. I see a lot of people uses enamel thin wire (the one that is almost like a hair, similar [or maybe the same] used in coils). Is it mandatory to use that kind of wire? I have it, but I don't like working with that. I also have a 0,58mm AWG30 wire that I usually use for all my installations or retro console mods, even soldering to SMD components, and it feels robust, insulted, and the wire itself it's almost like a hair, too.
Any inconveniences in using one or another, or it doesn't matter? (the one I prefer is VERY thin too, it won't be a problem routing it inside the Switch.
if u have it use it, i really recommend using it , there is a less chance of ripping off components or pads its conected to.
and its is enough to handle the power lines.

only place where u need to use atleast 0.2 if ur not using a flex cable is on the apu where u connect the apu to the mosfets.

otherwise all the way 0.1
 
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ojobenito

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I will use a hwfly flex cable for mosfets (it's much more of a headache the mosfets installation than the $10 that the flex cable costs)
About the cable, I think the plastic cover is 0,58mm, but the cable itself inside the cover is about 0'2mm. It's just like a hair, but a little bit sturdier than the enamel wire, and I prefer that. For VCC and GND, I have old IDE cable, and I always use that.
Just wanted to know if everyone was using the enamel wire because otherwise it won't work or something like that.
 

QuiTim

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Is it possible to use the method for only one Mosfet for the OLED? So the one where you have to remove the left capacitor.
View attachment 367774
It's always possible to use only one mosfet. If everything else is ok and still does not work then you need to add the second one.
You don't need to remove the capacitor, it's just that some people find it easier to solder directly to the pad with cap removed. In fact it is better that you don't remove the cap.
 

Dandan0404

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Removed usbc and Installed picofly 2.65. updated to 2.67 using toolbox, succes.

But how can we confirm if it is actually 2.67??
 

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