Picofly AIO Thread
- Thread starter Adran_Marit
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Have you tried 47ohm resistors on DAT0/CMD?
Looks like you have 01R (1 ohm) installed?
The LED should still light up with wrong resistors?
I've had a couple of RP2040-Zero duds.
One wouldn't flash until I reflowed the flash and RP2040.
Those are 100ohm 01A resistors (I have the same ones) but as you said, the LED should still light up
Most likely a bad rp2040
It stands for Low Dropout Regulator. It's the little 5-legged thingy on the upper part of the rp2040 board. It regulates the voltage but it's not needed anymore (if you don't plan to connect that board to PC anymore) and apparently (as Rehius suggested) it tends to go bad after some time and create problems
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no,i did not remove it
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i removed the LDR, and i still had the same problem. Ended up removing the whole picofly and replacing it with a new one and the issue seems to be fixed.
Side note: In the past i was using double sided sponge tape to place the picofly to the apu shield, but now i ve changed to T 7000 glue . It works wonders. The strength of it is insane and you will 100% be sure that nothing will get messed up if the console will be dropped in the future. However if you find yourself in my case,having to take the chip off..GOOD LUCK. I even had kapton tape first on the apu shield and then glue, in case that i have to take the chip out, ill just remove the kapton tape alongside the t 7000 glue and picofly but that was not the case. It came of really hard.
Last edited by Crung,
I installed rp2040 for a friend, works for 2 weeks, then the rp2040 shorted, burned at the back, removed chip and can boot to ofw but show unable to charge. Checked charging ic no short, fuse working, could it be charging port faulty? Also Screen are acting weird if try to charge
Are these important for the rp2040 to function? THE BOARD IS ALREADY FLASHED. I did an oopsie .my hand slipped. Pretty sure the ones near the 5v regulator dont matter when powering it with 3.3v. And the ones on the front of the board are for usb data right?
Are there alternative points for 3,3V on V1/V2 boards?? Something like the pads on switch lite.
On the guide is indicated a cap near M92T, since the Chip goes easily bad, I want to avoid that area completely
On the guide is indicated a cap near M92T, since the Chip goes easily bad, I want to avoid that area completely
I tore apart the right pad from RST. Are bothe pads needed for the console to work properly?? V1 switch
I keep getting the Error code "RST not connected" (It happened also before I tore off the pad). I habe changed the wire, cleaned every Flux residue, but nothing, it keeps blinking just twice
I keep getting the Error code "RST not connected" (It happened also before I tore off the pad). I habe changed the wire, cleaned every Flux residue, but nothing, it keeps blinking just twice
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Last edited by Myst0gan,
Unfortunately some pin are needed.
That green one is CMD line.
The pale red one i don't know, don't have time to track.
The gray and black are GND.
Magenta : Dat0
Cyan: Clk
Blue: RST (emmc doesn't use it at all)
Bright Red: 3.3V
Yellow: 1.8V
Do you know where the SDA and SCL pads are on v1 switch?? I don't see the testing points, like it's shown on the guide.
If the nand doesn't use rst, then I'll leave it
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I've no idea either.
You could track it yourself if you really want to pursue that. The necessart file are already shared on the sibling thread for pcbscan, etc. Track the line in v2 it will goes to what pin, then compare to the pcbscan for v1.
In my experience v1 is the fastest glitch than any other type.
I dont think anyone will need the sda/scl method especially for v1.
FYI, those sda/scl are unstable, use it if theres no other option.
I dont think anyone use it though in recent days.
Why 200??
Do you know where sda and scl points are??
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Just tried, both boards are completely different on sda/scl... they go to different components, which aren't present on v1
Last edited by Myst0gan,
So I have a RP2040 Tiny and everything works boots into CFW and OFW but I get no glitch led lights. I only get a led light on firmware 2.5+unlock but it stays solid green and wont turn off.
Any help?
Any help?
It's a sh*tty clone. Flash it with v2.67 for example, the LED will be always off, but who cares if it works, right? Though in the future you won't be able to troubleshoot the error codes if needed.
Otherwise, buy an original directly from Waveshare.
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