Picofly AIO Thread

[Elektronimo]

not sure why you prefer led side facing down and red cable/3.3v line seems easy to contact to metal shield ground.

Ah, in hindsight that was rather daft of me - I figured it made more sense at the time, since the IO-wires would be shorter and would not have to go below the Pico-board if I did it like that. But yeah, I would do it the other way around now.

What is that wire jumper you made on the left side of the pico between USB and some point at the bottom of it?

You mean this one, that's taped, right? It's the CPU-pin - I did the wiring separately on the MosFets and the Pico-board, so I felt it was just easier to patch them together like this, than to attach them directly, since I dragged the cpu-wire out from in-between openings in the heat-shield, so I didn't have to do more than fold it slightly in one place - saved me from having to cut the heat-shield.

 

[Dariush]

You mean this one

This one

 

[Elektronimo]

This one

Ah, that just appears to be some paper or cotton -schmutz, from my handling of the board, that I forgot to remove. Could also be creases in the Kapton-tape.

 

[RedFawkes]

I did a rather special install with an rp2040-tiny and added 0805 resistors same way as on an rp2040-zero. works but a bit tight

Deeps, I see you're using one of those double reball.. err.. ice-cream sandwich type PCB things that I've seen on AliExpress... (sorry, can't think of a better way to describe it).

Does the eMMC stand too tall to place the sheilding back on when that extra PCB layer is used?

 

[deeps]

Deeps, I see you're using one of those double reball.. err.. ice-cream sandwich type PCB things that I've seen on AliExpress... (sorry, can't think of a better way to describe it).

Does the eMMC stand too tall to place the sheilding back on when that extra PCB layer is used?

no, the emmc height is pretty much flush with the height of the shield frame, so the cover fits nicely as usual. I just left it off to take a photo

 

[RedFawkes]

no, the emmc height is pretty much flush with the height of the shield frame, so the cover fits nicely as usual. I just left it off to take a photo

Interesting

Did you have any issues using it? I assume it was pre-balled.

 

[deeps]

Interesting

Did you have any issues using it? I assume it was pre-balled.

They are preballed, but the ball job is rather low quality, with too uneven ball sizes. I had issues with not all balls connecting on about a third of installs. So I am reballing them myself before using them now, 100% success rate then.

Post automatically merged: Aug 30, 2023

Interesting

Did you have any issues using it? I assume it was pre-balled.

Attaching photos of factory balls vs my balls

 

[RedFawkes]

They are preballed, but the ball job is rather low quality, with too uneven ball sizes. I had issues with not all balls connecting on about a third of installs. So I am reballing them myself before using them now, 100% success rate then.

Post automatically merged: Aug 30, 2023

Attaching photos of factory balls vs my balls

Very good

(Just try and tell me you didn't laugh when renaming that second jpeg!)

 

[karatefeet]

I thought the RP tiny was thin enough to avoid cutting the metal shield? Did my first on a v2 and still had to cut else it would just boot straight to OFW. Guessing the shield pinched a wire or something but regardless it wasn't a good fit and was bending the shield. I used a thin piece of double sided tape to keep the Tiny in place.

 

[RedFawkes]

I thought the RP tiny was thin enough to avoid cutting the metal shield? Did my first on a v2 and still had to cut else it would just boot straight to OFW. Guessing the shield pinched a wire or something but regardless it wasn't a good fit and was bending the shield. I used a thin piece of double sided tape to keep the Tiny in place.

Ah really? Mine are arriving this week.

What if the ribbon connector was removed?

 

[karatefeet]

Ah really? Mine are arriving this week.

What if the ribbon connector was removed?

Oh didn't think of that! I will give it a go with the one I'm working on now. Will update with the results.

 

[RedFawkes]

Oh didn't think of that! I will give it a go with the one I'm working on now. Will update with the results.

I think the small black component (USB power voltage regulator?) below and to the left of the connector can be removed also.

I think this is the same component we remove from the rear of RP2040 Zero.

After the ribbon connector this is the second tallest component on the RP2040 Tiny and therefore will reduce the overall thickness.

I see Deeps removed this is the images he posted recently in this thread so I'm fairly confident this will work.

Maybe someone can confirm.

Edit: Deeps I've snipped part of your install picture and attached it here. Hope you don't mind..

 

[deeps]

I think the small black component (USB power voltage regulator?) below and to the left of the connector can be removed also.

I think this is the same component we remove from the rear of RP2040 Zero.

After the ribbon connector this is the second tallest component on the RP2040 Tiny and therefore will reduce the overall thickness.

I see Deeps removed this is the images he posted recently in this thread so I'm fairly confident this will work.

Maybe someone can confirm.

Edit: Deeps I've snipped part of your install picture and attached it here. Hope you don't mind..

I've removed the ribbon connector and LDO to save another 0.15mm of height. This install is on the back of the motherboard where the height is critical. However in the "regular" v1/v2 location under the shield, I don't think this would make enough of a difference. Anyway, the LDO and ribbon connector are only needed for the USB port to work so it's fine to remove them

 

[Crung]

Hi. I have a lite that had slow boot times. After 2 weeks of usage booting succesfully to heckate 100% of times, it boots straight to ofw. After some tryes it boots to heckate , but only sometimes. A fix i found on reddit is holding down + volume and power . This seemed to fix the problem.
latest firmware on console.
and 2.73 on picofly
Questions:
1.Why is this happening?
2.Is this happening because something is not physically connected?
3. Is the fix ( + volume and power) permanent or is this also going to stop working in the future?

 

[Pickle_Rick]

I had some issues with the RP2040 Tiny:
- emmc slow mode,
- No boot in OFW mode,
- No boot in SysCFW mode (atmosphere logo and black screen),

EmuMMC was always ok.

I fixed all of these issues by adding an extra 47ohms resistor on DAT0. I had to do that for some oleds and some v1/v2.

I wonder if this is the problem with mine. On mine the eMMC isn't in slow mode and I can actually boot the sysMMC (both CFW and OFW). The problem with mine is it'll crash after a while and it wakes up and crashes after about a minute of being in sleep. I've had it for a while now and it works perfectly fine in emuMMC and Android though. I've got the Toshiba eMMC too.

 

[deeps]

I wonder if this is the problem with mine. On mine the eMMC isn't in slow mode and I can actually boot the sysMMC (both CFW and OFW). The problem with mine is it'll crash after a while and it wakes up and crashes after about a minute of being in sleep. I've had it for a while now and it works perfectly fine in emuMMC and Android though. I've got the Toshiba eMMC too.

I've had one or two behaving exactly like this, resistors were the problem

 

[Dariush]

I've had one or two behaving exactly like this, resistors were the problem

Resistors on DAT0 and CMD? What if we install 100 ohm instead of 47 ohm resistors on those two points by default?

 

[deeps]

Resistors on DAT0 and CMD? What if we install 100 ohm instead of 47 ohm resistors on those two points by default?

Yes. most of us are doing 100/100/47 by now since it's more likely to work well

 

[Dariush]

As we are feeding the pico from MOBO, this 3.3 voltage regulator can be removed. Right?

 

[deeps]

As we are feeding the pico from MOBO, this 3.3 voltage regulator can be removed. Right?

yes