Where can i got 2.75 firmware? In github i can see only 2.74 rolled back for 2.73.Firmware 2.75 maybe fix this issue too:
Where can i got 2.75 firmware? In github i can see only 2.74 rolled back for 2.73.Firmware 2.75 maybe fix this issue too:
hi. here https://github.com/rehius/usk/releasesWhere can i got 2.75 firmware? In github i can see only 2.74 rolled back for 2.73.
https://github.com/rehius/usk/releasesWhere can i got 2.75 firmware? In github i can see only 2.74 rolled back for 2.73.
top off the thread important postWhere can i got 2.75 firmware? In github i can see only 2.74 rolled back for 2.73.
Question on reballing the eMMC, what temps and air settings are you guys using? I've been using 380 @ 50% and go nice and slow. I've heard the eMMC can be damaged by heat so didn't want to go too hot.
he was refering to all switches in Generel, if u dont know what D and S point is check the PicofFly Guide
I am getting BSOD after trying picofly. I just applied solder to tge solder points and thought I will complete it in daylight.
Went through the forum, cleaned my soldered points and flux but still BSOD.
Attaching images, please someone have a look at it.
About your issue.
Since you could goes to hekate, then i think the dram connection should be okay.
I remember someone whose dram trace got disconnected, cannot even goes to hekate.
Have you tried to reball the emmc, or use the permanent method?
If you are not confident, dont do it.
Reball, indeed need basic skill and appropriate tool to safely executed.
Its not only skhynix, almost all mariko have that weird issue.Hey guys! Got an OLED with SKHynix, did eMMC reball and with RP2040-zero (3x47Ohm) + FW2.73 I sometimes get slow glitch time (up to 15s and other times 2-3s). Tried adding extra 47 Ohm on CLK and CMD, but the timming did not improve. Once booted, the console works well and the eMMC has the correct speed.
Is this SKHynix "stubborn" or is there some room to improve? What was "weird" as well is that usually I read between 0.450V-0.5V on eMMC (red on GND), but on this console they're around 0.55V.
I told a flex is better since it doesn't have that short coming of having a rigid structure, though the only problem here is the price since you have to order bulk to make it worthawhile otherwise they will charge you an arm.I always choose the lesser risk.
My step is first paste and reball the bottom adapter. If the bending is negligible than goes to reflow it to the mainboard pcb. Then check the continuity of cmd and vdd. Then paste and reball the emmc, then reflow to the adapter. Then check again the continuity of cmd and vdd to the main board.
I choose this order because this is the lesser risk.
If i Reflow the emmc to the adapter first. If its failed then i need to repeat the reballing emmc and reflow it to the adapter again. This might broke the emmc if i do it again and again.
I prefer reball the adapter first. If its failed, the adapter itself is cheap only $1, not much loose. And the mainboard pcb are rigid, its >5layer. So its not easily broken compare to the emmc.
I always choose lesser risk and lowest price as much as possible. Complexity is not a concern for me. As long as the risk is less.
Subjectively i prefer green adapter than the flex.I told a flex is better since it doesn't have that short coming of having a rigid structure, though the only problem here is the price since you have to order bulk to make it worthawhile otherwise they will charge you an arm.
Subjectively i prefer green adapter than the flex.
If you want to reduce the flex price, try to create it yourself on kicad and manufacture it on the jlcpcb.
Missing resistor. I believe it's 100 ohmI am getting BSOD after trying picofly. I just applied solder to tge solder points and thought I will complete it in daylight.
Went through the forum, cleaned my soldered points and flux but still BSOD.
Attaching images, please someone have a look at it.
I changed from flex cable to backside mosfet installation which works fine. Just in case I will ruin the cap near the mosfet on an OLED. Can anyone help me what cap it is that I can order some spare sparts ?
or you can do this install instead
works exactly the same, but far easier to installuh - was not aware of that. Does it work in the same way / speed etc. or any disadvantages ? Indeed this looks safer for me...
works exactly the same, but far easier to install
there are, but you normally wouldn't remove the motherboard on those so it adds complexity in other ways instead. Here are two alternatives for the switch liteGreat! Thanks for that info. This is only working for OLED or are there also safer methods for V2 / lites etc. for the mosfet installations ?
Great! Thanks for that info. This is only working for OLED or are there also safer methods for V2 / lites etc. for the mosfet installations ?