On v1 , V2 after remove port and buttons you can put the board on top of the shield after you pass it through the fan hole just like the hwfly core ,,
IMO, that sounds fine for a chip that can easily be disconnected and has highly secured flex cables. For these manual PFly installs, though, that could interfere with further disassembly AND be more susceptible to needing said disassembly.
Again IMO, you should always think about how you're going to work on the machine again, and make sure your 'install' has an 'uninstall path'. I have an idea for how to do this with PFlys, but I need parts. Send me all your broken joycons that have dead sticks AND *dead* batteries
Switchs (Switches?) break a lot, they're portables, and now you've manually soldered wires to it as well. We're not corporations with machines, we can't GUARANTEE our solder joints will hold up to the abuse these things usually take, and now said connections are being fished through a hole and possibly pinched as well. The ability to easily remove parts and troubleshoot is priceless, HIGH chance you'll want\need to open it up again.
Interference shielding IS important, but I believe that is handled best by all the individual shields for the emmc\APU\RAM\WiFi. It seems the metal backplate doesn't really do much. So, since SOMETHING MUST be cut\removed (if even just RP2040 parts\board) to make room for MORE equipment to fit in a PORTABLE, my main target on any Switch is this plate. Sometimes the RP2040 board gets more removed and sometimes it's this shield (search the forums to figure out which I mean for which).
If anyone does a PFly install and now has all these tools that you don't plan to use again, idk what ur doing in the 1st place. Get back in there and upgrade the internal storage, or think of case swaps (don't buy cheap!), or, if it's a Lite, think about replacing the joysticks (hall effect?).
*Jimmy Valmer* I mean, come on...
*Edit*