Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

Attachments

  • Trinket equivalent.png
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PRAGMA

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Thanks a ton for that link.
So I guess in my situation I'm looking for a 7-wire rcmx86 setup, with all the optional straps connected.
Now I need to figure out the software side of the story. Is Fusee-Suite what everyone uses? From a brand new RCMX86 (which may or may not be flashed with something yet) where do I begin?
I guess first things first I would need to solder on a USB temporarily, but what from there?
 
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binkinator

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Thanks a ton for that link.
So I guess in my situation I'm looking for a 7-wire rcmx86 setup, with all the optional straps connected.
if yiu want the full effect, yes.
Now I need to figure out the software side of the story. Is Fusee-Suite what everyone uses?
Fusee Suite rocks. It’s a set it and forget it affair once you get it all set up. each release has several bells and/or whistles added or removed. I still use V6.
From a brand new RCMX86 (which may or may not be flashed with something yet) where do I begin?
Flash image 1 of course! Then flash image2.
I guess first things first I would need to solder on a USB temporarily, but what from there?
The link is a little hidden due to coloring of the font and background in the OP. Make sure you read everything carefully. This mod will be punishing tricky if you don’t.
 

PRAGMA

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I cannot find information on which pads are confirmed to work on the white RCM-X86 for the VOL+ and USB DC straps. The euclala repo doesn't mention anything past a 5-wire setup. D0==joy-con strap, D1==?, D2==?, D3==controls USB logic IC EN pin, D4==?.
As I've stated before the GPIO pins on the OP's diagram for the Green rcm-x86 is different to the one for the White rcm-x86. So I'm wondering which is actaully used for the other straps.

My best guess based on the green RCM-X86 is D0=joy-con, D1=unused, D2=Vol+ strap, D3=logic ic en pin(doesnt matter to us), D4=USB DC strap. Can anyone confirm what pads are used for these straps on the White rcm-x86? Preferably by someone who has used the white one and used the other straps?
Post automatically merged:

Hi, I've installed the white RCM-X86, 5-wire setup so far (req+joycon strap) and when booting up while holding +, I get the red-os boot.dat screen. I presume the software on the chip is shit. I can deal with this boot.dat payload, but does anyone know what software is on this chip then?

I want to look into the software to see if there's any hotkeys or functionality to this chip software. E.g., an easy way to enter SAMD21 update mode to flash Fusee-Suite. I know I can connect RES to GND, but I do not have a switch or anything right now. I do have a multi-meter, would there maybe be a way to use a multimeter to trigger like a switch to enter update mode?
 
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DankBreak270

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I cannot find information on which pads are confirmed to work on the white RCM-X86 for the VOL+ and USB DC straps. The euclala repo doesn't mention anything past a 5-wire setup. D0==joy-con strap, D1==?, D2==?, D3==controls USB logic IC EN pin, D4==?.
As I've stated before the GPIO pins on the OP's diagram for the Green rcm-x86 is different to the one for the White rcm-x86. So I'm wondering which is actaully used for the other straps.

My best guess based on the green RCM-X86 is D0=joy-con, D1=unused, D2=Vol+ strap, D3=logic ic en pin(doesnt matter to us), D4=USB DC strap. Can anyone confirm what pads are used for these straps on the White rcm-x86? Preferably by someone who has used the white one and used the other straps?
Post automatically merged:

Hi, I've installed the white RCM-X86, 5-wire setup so far (req+joycon strap) and when booting up while holding +, I get the red-os boot.dat screen. I presume the software on the chip is shit. I can deal with this boot.dat payload, but does anyone know what software is on this chip then?

I want to look into the software to see if there's any hotkeys or functionality to this chip software. E.g., an easy way to enter SAMD21 update mode to flash Fusee-Suite. I know I can connect RES to GND, but I do not have a switch or anything right now. I do have a multi-meter, would there maybe be a way to use a multimeter to trigger like a switch to enter update mode?
I’m getting a white rcmx86 chip on a couple of days and would also like to know the vol+ and usb disconnect also it seem like the white rcmx86 comes with a magnetic switch that you can install on ground and reset but it you connect to wire to ground and reset then touch them together it might work
 

DankBreak270

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Can anyone help I installed a trinket m0 a month ago and it worked a week later I tried to install a hwfly but it was broke from the factory after installing and uninstalling the hwfly I cant get any trinket m0 Gemma m0 or rcmx86 to work I can go into rcm mode and get to hekate but only with my computer I’m able to access boot loader mode with them installed so it’s not my usb solder joint can anyone help
 

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Can anyone help I installed a trinket m0 a month ago and it worked a week later I tried to install a hwfly but it was broke from the factory after installing and uninstalling the hwfly I cant get any trinket m0 Gemma m0 or rcmx86 to work I can go into rcm mode and get to hekate but only with my computer I’m able to access boot loader mode with them installed so it’s not my usb solder joint can anyone help
The odds say it’s a soldering issue as opposed to an issue with all 3 devices being bad. You can remove the trinket device, leaving the wires in place, and easily use a multimeter to check for shorts/opens in the wiring. We might be able to help in a limited capacity if you post a few close up pics.
 

DankBreak270

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The odds say it’s a soldering issue as opposed to an issue with all 3 devices being bad. You can remove the trinket device, leaving the wires in place, and easily use a multimeter to check for shorts/opens in the wiring. We might be able to help in a limited capacity if you post a few close up pics.
I’ve checked my solder with a multimeter and everything was fine plus I’ve unsoldered and resolder already
 

DankBreak270

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What I don't get why you install a HWFLY on it when the Trinket M0 was working fine.
I had a one laying around I installed it on my v2 switch and it didn’t work so I then installed on my v1 switch and it also didn’t work and then I found out it broken from the factory
Post automatically merged:

What I don't get why you install a HWFLY on it when the Trinket M0 was working fine.
I’m also dumb and can’t leave stuff alone
 
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DankBreak270

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If all the soldering is proven to be perfect then there’s not much else to check here I’m afraid.




i do this too!
Thankfully I have spare cpu cables that I can use when picofly can finally boot atmosphere
Post automatically merged:

Although
If all the soldering is proven to be perfect then there’s not much else to check here I’m afraid.




i do this too!
if I had to guess why it’s not working it’s because of the emmc after I installed the hwfly
 
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Just thought I'd put this in here as not sure where else to ask. I can't for the life of me boot into fusee suite. I have itsybitsy m0 express installed with part 1 and 2 flashed fine. All installed perfectly as on old parts the light would illuminate to indicate vol strap connected. With new parts it doesn't do that and I try long and short vol press but nothing happens, just boots into OFW. Any help would be fantastic, cheers.
 

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Just thought I'd put this in here as not sure where else to ask. I can't for the life of me boot into fusee suite. I have itsybitsy m0 express installed with part 1 and 2 flashed fine. All installed perfectly as on old parts the light would illuminate to indicate vol strap connected. With new parts it doesn't do that and I try long and short vol press but nothing happens, just boots into OFW. Any help would be fantastic, cheers.
That’s kinda what is happening to me not sure tho on why it happens
 

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Just bought it today for 8$ because my injector lost during business trip. I will install it tonight if I'm free.
z4153275263737_66a3725841b10529ef009cfecd2f6c83.jpg


Edit1: Is there anybody face with Freezing Issue when drag-n-drop a .uf2 into Xiao? Currently, I can not upgrade Xiao with drag-n-drop method, I have to use J-link OB to reprogram it and searching for its Arduino Bootloader to flash back
 
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binkinator

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Just thought I'd put this in here as not sure where else to ask. I can't for the life of me boot into fusee suite. I have itsybitsy m0 express installed with part 1 and 2 flashed fine. All installed perfectly as on old parts the light would illuminate to indicate vol strap connected. With new parts it doesn't do that and I try long and short vol press but nothing happens, just boots into OFW. Any help would be fantastic, cheers.
Please post detailed pics of your soldering. I know it‘s “perfect” but I’m pretty certain soldering is going to be the root cause. Also, how did you confirm part2 flashed fine?
 

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Please post detailed pics of your soldering. I know it‘s “perfect” but I’m pretty certain soldering is going to be the root cause. Also, how did you confirm part2 flashed fine?
Dude, all he has to do is check with a multimeter, check the gnd and 3.3v points to see if there's power at those on the trinket (the output on the voltage regulator). Then check d+ and d- to see if you get power when sending an recieving data. It's not rocket science. Also enable auto rcm, just to check if the rcm strap is fautly, because if it boots with autorcm enabled, you can tell if rcm strap is faulty.
 
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