Can I use this Amazonbasics cable for fusee payload?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G...b+c+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41wgZRjwXYL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G...b+c+to+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41wgZRjwXYL&ref=plSrch
Can you please suggest me a cable that works? I don't want to purchase pro controller just for the cable. I already have too many Bluetooth controllers.EDIT: Nope, don't buy it. One user already reported it is out of spec with the 56ohm resistor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-...ef=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B01GGKYN0A
Can you please suggest me a cable that works? I don't want to purchase pro controller just for the cable. I already have too many Bluetooth controllers.
Use whatever you want, it's not like you're going to connect the switch to your PC/Android phone for a long period of time. While people around here are very paranoid, I'm using a $5 USB-A to USB-C from miniso for f-g and even for charging my switch. Heck, I sometimes even use an old USB-A to micro USB-A with USB-C adapter if I happen to forget to bring the miniso USB cord.
Official Nintendo branded cables are your safest bet as stated by H1B1Esquire, or the 56ohm resistor cable Peabutt offered up.
I read somewhere that the update 5.0.1 and 5.0.2 fixed brick by using third party docks and cables, so is this information valid only for old firmwares or did i misunderstood something?
Im asking because i have a Switch on 3.0.2 and now i have no ideia if the usb-c cable for connecting the Switch with PC that i have here is safe or not.
1. The source can only give current of what the load can handle. It doesn't matter what resistance the USB cord has, it doesn't matter what the current rating the source has. The switch will only take what it can.Actually some people around here have an extensive background in IT and Electrical Engineering, not to be confused with paranoia.
This is the worst advice ever. Please disregard any recklessness recommended by other members that are not technically inclined. It only took a single third party dock without a resistor to pop a huge number of switches. Despite how short of a duration you actually use a cable is not of importance.
Okay this one here is incorrect my friend. Voltage wouldn't rise above what the source is giving just because of the resistance of the cable. If the resistor is in parallel with the load, no voltage drop (or rise) will happen, only current drop. If the resistor is in series with the load (which is very unlikely), there'll be a voltage drop (but still, voltage rise is impossible). So no matter what resistance the cable has, voltage wouldn't rise at all that'll damage the load.Each time you use the cable, you are pushing voltage through the switch cannot regulate.
Actually, the switch will try to pull more than it is allotted without a 56ohm. That's the whole purpose of the resistor is to keep the voltage regulated.1. The source can only give current of what the load can handle. It doesn't matter what resistance the USB cord has, it doesn't matter what the current rating the source has. The switch will only take what it can.
Not moot, this is very valid as it is not just the docks that are the problem, it is the switch itself. That was just an example of what can go wrong when pulling from an unregulated power source. Cables are relevant to this.2. You said it yourself, "It only took a single third party dock," your argument is moot if you're referring to 3rd party dock while discussing 3rd party USB cables. Maybe the dock doesn't regulate voltage and some fluctuations happen. As I said, it's moot.
3. I'm a degree holder in electrical engineering. Not that this is relevant, huh?
4. If you have better explanation, please, I'll be glad to be proven wrong as this same question pops out every now and then.
Look, your first argument you said people around here have extensive background in EE, I know, I'm one of them. But see, now your sources are random youtube videos and sites with no "extensive" explanation.-snip-
I volunteer as tribute. I'll be this thread's test subject. Give me a few months. If I'm wrong and my switch bricks, I'll update you guys immediately.until someone in this thread bricks from using the wrong cable, everything's okay......until it isn't.
Facts with sources
TL;DR I disagree.
The first one clearly said "if you don't use a cord with rated 56k ohms, not enough power will be drawn to the switch and charging will be slower." This is correct, you'll only charge the switch slower. But it wouldn't brick the console.