Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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impeeza

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I removed the USB port successfully. And then I removed carefully some excess solder with copper braid. Now it seems that I scratched off a bit from the black layer coating of the board. Could this be problematic? My wires wouldn't make any contact with this.

View attachment 432726
As far you remove all the welder bridges should no be a problem
 

Kevin Cuep

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I found a not so visible diagram of this chip and added the corresponding pins in an enlarged image, but does anyone know how to update this chip and what the USB strap pin is? I can't find any information or with the seller lol
 

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Hayato213

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I found a not so visible diagram of this chip and added the corresponding pins in an enlarged image, but does anyone know how to update this chip and what the USB strap pin is? I can't find any information or with the seller lol
1000015185.jpg


1000015187.jpg


Point A is Joycon Strap and Point B is Vol+ Strap, as for USB disconnect it is one of the unused pin.
 

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Kevin Cuep

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Yes, in the attached image put the strap description of pin a and b, but I want to know if someone has updated this chip and also if they know the usb strap pin. The version of this chip shows me Hekate 6.0.2 without SD, with SD it sends me to the recent payload
 

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Hayato213

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Yes, in the attached image put the strap description of pin a and b, but I want to know if someone has updated this chip and also if they know the usb strap pin. The version of this chip shows me Hekate 6.0.2 without SD, with SD it sends me to the recent payload

You don't really need to update the payload on the chip, since the uf2 payload on the chip load the one on the SD. If you find newer uf2 build and want to update, you need to use a magnet to bring up a drive storage allow you to update the uf2 payload on the chip.
 

fvig2001

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So I have the newer rcmx86 that was installed just using 4 usb pins. It always loads to Hekate even if I:

1. Remove payload.bin and replace it with like lock pick renamed to payload.bin on root folder
2. Erased hekate*.bin on root folder
3. Turn off switch then press power

Any tips on making rcmx86 load my payload? The payload is not hekate compatible.

Alternatively, I can connect a usb to my pc and then turn off->on then send payload but that probably would cause issues in the long run right?
 
Last edited by fvig2001,

impeeza

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So I have the newer rcmx86 that was installed just using 4 usb pins. It always loads to Hekate even if I:

1. Remove payload.bin and replace it with like lock pick renamed to payload.bin on root folder
2. Erased hekate*.bin on root folder
3. Turn off switch then press power

Any tips on making rcmx86 load my payload? The payload is not hekate compatible.

Alternatively, I can connect a usb to my pc and then turn off->on then send payload but that probably would cause issues in the long run right?
the RCMx86 sends the payload FROM THE CHIP it doesn´t read from SD card if you like to load a Payload from SD Card I recommend you to put ArgonNX-SE payload on your CHIP.
 

Girtana1

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1714976181859.png

Finally got around to installing an RCMx86 for my buddy, everything went smooth except for pulling hair for half an hour figuring out that for whatever reason the latest hekate (6.1.1) will not boot with software autoRCM enabled (decided I wasn't comfortable soldering the joycon strap after seeing how small it is and how many neighboring points there are, was difficult enough to solder 3v3 without bridging those caps lol) hekate 6.1.0 boots just fine with autoRCM so that's the route I'm taking since I don't want to keep messing with it and my buddy doesn't really care about newer titles at all, it'll be unfortunate when Pokemon Z drops but hopefully this bug (that hopefully resides in hekate lol) is resolved by then, or I get a 2nd Erista of my own to play around with and figure out how to update the chip (or just go with a Trinket at this point lmao)

Also I could be Mandela-effecting, but I swear I saw a simple payload when I was looking into this the other week that'll tell you which specific straps are connected, not sure if I just dreamt it up because I can't find it now :wacko:
 

impeeza

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View attachment 435569
Finally got around to installing an RCMx86 for my buddy, everything went smooth except for pulling hair for half an hour figuring out that for whatever reason the latest hekate (6.1.1) will not boot with software autoRCM enabled (decided I wasn't comfortable soldering the joycon strap after seeing how small it is and how many neighboring points there are, was difficult enough to solder 3v3 without bridging those caps lol) hekate 6.1.0 boots just fine with autoRCM so that's the route I'm taking since I don't want to keep messing with it and my buddy doesn't really care about newer titles at all, it'll be unfortunate when Pokemon Z drops but hopefully this bug (that hopefully resides in hekate lol) is resolved by then, or I get a 2nd Erista of my own to play around with and figure out how to update the chip (or just go with a Trinket at this point lmao)

Also I could be Mandela-effecting, but I swear I saw a simple payload when I was looking into this the other week that'll tell you which specific straps are connected, not sure if I just dreamt it up because I can't find it now :wacko:
Did you tried ArgonNX(SE) as payload? With it you will never need to upgrade the chip payload. Only the autobot payload file on the card
Post automatically merged:

Also. If you boot using an old hekate payload. Hekate himself will reload latest one on the card
 
Last edited by impeeza,

Girtana1

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Did you tried ArgonNX(SE) as payload? With it you will never need to upgrade the chip payload. Only the autobot payload file on the card
Post automatically merged:

Also. If you boot using an old hekate payload. Hekate himself will reload latest one on the card
Not sure how I can directly boot Argon when hekate is on the chip, I am aware that hekate will chain-load the latest I don't think you really read what I said lol

After some more messing around though I have determined that for some reason sometimes I just get 'fluke boots' (backlight turns on, but it doesn't seem like the payload gets injected?) I guess coincidentally every time I was trying to boot hekate 6.1.1 I was getting a 'fluke boot' I have now ran into bigger problems though with USB transfer working intermittently, which like I said in my last comment isn't the biggest deal since my buddy doesn't really play newer games anyway, but it is making it extremely annoying for the initial setup right now, all in all I think I'm now realizing why people install glitch chips in Erista's and am considering swapping this over to one since no diagram details the USB disconnect for these revisions of RCMx86 nor can I find that payload that lists which straps are connected (if it even exists lol)
 

BaamAlex

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Not sure how I can directly boot Argon when hekate is on the chip, I am aware that hekate will chain-load the latest I don't think you really read what I said lol

After some more messing around though I have determined that for some reason sometimes I just get 'fluke boots' (backlight turns on, but it doesn't seem like the payload gets injected?) I guess coincidentally every time I was trying to boot hekate 6.1.1 I was getting a 'fluke boot' I have now ran into bigger problems though with USB transfer working intermittently, which like I said in my last comment isn't the biggest deal since my buddy doesn't really play newer games anyway, but it is making it extremely annoying for the initial setup right now, all in all I think I'm now realizing why people install glitch chips in Erista's and am considering swapping this over to one since no diagram details the USB disconnect for these revisions of RCMx86 nor can I find that payload that lists which straps are connected (if it even exists lol)
Then why don't u install a trinket? There is no real reason to install a glitching chip into an unpatched model.
 

Girtana1

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Then why don't u install a trinket? There is no real reason to install a glitching chip into an unpatched model.
Very true, it bothers the hell out of me every time I see a Reddit post of someone with a glitch chip in an Erista lmao
I just already have a few on hand so it wouldn't be any waiting for it to ship, then again it's not like my buddy wants this back right away or anything so I probably will pick up a Trinket, thanks for changing my mind because I've been wanting to install an internal payload chip since 2018 (before I could even solder) so I really do want to see this through 🙏
 

BaamAlex

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Very true, it bothers the hell out of me every time I see a Reddit post of someone with a glitch chip in an Erista lmao
I just already have a few on hand so it wouldn't be any waiting for it to ship, then again it's not like my buddy wants this back right away or anything so I probably will pick up a Trinket, thanks for changing my mind because I've been wanting to install an internal payload chip since 2018 (before I could even solder) so I really do want to see this through 🙏
I mean, you can use a glitch chip in a v1 unit. But it makes no sense imho when there are "modchips" out in the wild which doesn't glitch to boot a cfw. Install a trinket and use every payload that exist.
 

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