Hello all!
I was working on a client's Wii U where they asked me to modify it with the "Unlimited 5v mod" for the rear usb cables.
The request was to follow this setup, where the positive terminal of the tantalum capacitor was connected to the two smd capacitors.
Link to images
I did this, and because of the requested tight turnaround, put the Wii U back together (rookie mistake), and plugged it in to test, only for it to start flashing red.
After apologising for the failure to deliver, the client said they understood, and that we can work on getting it working again.
By some random coincidence (and my ignorance), I didn't know that the Wii U doesn't provide USB power in standby, so after leaving it unplugged from mains and leaving a usb charging cable (with a little LED on the end) in, when I attempted to boot it up, it was a solid red! SUCCESS!
...or so I thought. Leaving it in for longer than a moment would have it go back to flashing.
After trialling a few things, I realised that the process to achieve "solid red" was as follows:
1. Unplug the power cable from the Wii U.
2. Insert USB charging cable with LED into either back usb slot.
3. Wait a minute or longer
4. Plug in Wii U power
5. *IMMEDIATELY* press the power button on the console.
This would provide a semi-reliable method of powering on the console, and successfully getting to the Wii U Plaza screen (extra thankful, since the client is running CBHC).
At this point, the Original two-wire mod has been removed, and replaced with a direct solder to the USB slot pins (see images).
The tantalum capacitor (C656) has been removed (which only slightly lengthens the time to press the power button), and also replaced with a Wurth electrolytic capacitor of equivalent value (and correct orientation!).
At this point, I am super stumped. I've checked all the components surround the rear USB ports, and they're all outputting ~5.15v.
It could be U23/U28, but I honestly barely know what they are, so I have no definitive means to check them.
Also the fact that the USB cable helping discharge something is my theory that there might be a voltage leak somewhere, but that's just me spitballing.
Additionally, my Wii U powers up no problems with the power supply, so it's not that. Though I do have another one somewhere that I could try, but honestly I don't think that's it.
If anyone could provide some insight or guidance, it would be super muchly appreciated!
I was working on a client's Wii U where they asked me to modify it with the "Unlimited 5v mod" for the rear usb cables.
The request was to follow this setup, where the positive terminal of the tantalum capacitor was connected to the two smd capacitors.
Link to images
I did this, and because of the requested tight turnaround, put the Wii U back together (rookie mistake), and plugged it in to test, only for it to start flashing red.
After apologising for the failure to deliver, the client said they understood, and that we can work on getting it working again.
By some random coincidence (and my ignorance), I didn't know that the Wii U doesn't provide USB power in standby, so after leaving it unplugged from mains and leaving a usb charging cable (with a little LED on the end) in, when I attempted to boot it up, it was a solid red! SUCCESS!
...or so I thought. Leaving it in for longer than a moment would have it go back to flashing.
After trialling a few things, I realised that the process to achieve "solid red" was as follows:
1. Unplug the power cable from the Wii U.
2. Insert USB charging cable with LED into either back usb slot.
3. Wait a minute or longer
4. Plug in Wii U power
5. *IMMEDIATELY* press the power button on the console.
This would provide a semi-reliable method of powering on the console, and successfully getting to the Wii U Plaza screen (extra thankful, since the client is running CBHC).
At this point, the Original two-wire mod has been removed, and replaced with a direct solder to the USB slot pins (see images).
The tantalum capacitor (C656) has been removed (which only slightly lengthens the time to press the power button), and also replaced with a Wurth electrolytic capacitor of equivalent value (and correct orientation!).
At this point, I am super stumped. I've checked all the components surround the rear USB ports, and they're all outputting ~5.15v.
It could be U23/U28, but I honestly barely know what they are, so I have no definitive means to check them.
Also the fact that the USB cable helping discharge something is my theory that there might be a voltage leak somewhere, but that's just me spitballing.
Additionally, my Wii U powers up no problems with the power supply, so it's not that. Though I do have another one somewhere that I could try, but honestly I don't think that's it.
If anyone could provide some insight or guidance, it would be super muchly appreciated!