it's not that complicated as you describing the whole install...if you want to uninstall just reverse the process witch is about 30 sec...i dont know what you have in mind...IMO, that sounds fine for a chip that can easily be disconnected and has highly secured flex cables. For these manual PFly installs, though, that could interfere with further disassembly AND be more susceptible to needing said disassembly.
Again IMO, you should always think about how you're going to work on the machine again, and make sure your 'install' has an 'uninstall path'. I have an idea for how to do this with PFlys, but I need parts. Send me all your broken joycons that have dead sticks AND *dead* batteries
Switchs (Switches?) break a lot, they're portables, and now you've manually soldered wires to it as well. We're not corporations with machines, we can't GUARANTEE our solder joints will hold up to the abuse these things usually take, and now said connections are being fished through a hole and possibly pinched as well. The ability to easily remove parts and troubleshoot is priceless, HIGH chance you'll want\need to open it up again.
Interference shielding IS important, but I believe that is handled best by all the individual shields for the emmc\APU\RAM\WiFi. It seems the metal backplate doesn't really do much. So, since SOMETHING MUST be cut\removed (if even just RP2040 parts\board) to make room for MORE equipment to fit in a PORTABLE, my main target on any Switch is this plate. Sometimes the RP2040 board gets more removed and sometimes it's this shield (search the forums to figure out which I mean for which).
If anyone does a PFly install and now has all these tools that you don't plan to use again, idk what ur doing in the 1st place. Get back in there and upgrade the internal storage, or think of case swaps (don't buy cheap!), or, if it's a Lite, think about replacing the joysticks (hall effect?).
*Jimmy Valmer* I mean, come on...
*Edit*
Post automatically merged:
@AceCuba
of course the cables can be shorter but in this particular switch the boot time is something like 1 sec...
Attachments
Last edited by d.b,
First, check that different cards are not really working. Second, open your switch to check if at any time you did any damage in any area when you were installing the picofly. Third, check components near the SD slot. Fourth, If you still have the same problem, you can upload close-up images of everything you were touching so we can see and help better.
question, put picofly flashed kefir made emunand loaded into the atmosphere put the games everything was ok plays all the class, loaded into fullstock turned on the internet there tied my account set to download fortnite, decided to boot into the atmosphere check if everything is in order with emu nand, and the switch starts now only in fullstock, and immediately without the kefir splash screen, and even if the flash drive is removed, the chip behaves usually turns on blue then green and goes out as before when kefir started
Attachments
Their answer is all over the internet, they should learn how to use Kung Foogle 1st
*Neo* I know Kung Fu...oogle
LOLTheir answer is all over the internet, they should learn how to use Kung Foogle 1st
*Neo* I know Kung Fu...oogle
I never said it was complicated, I basically just said it 'adds unneeded steps', and you're forgetting about the time to reinstall it.
Think your fan is never going to die? Never want to replace the thermal paste again? Sure hope you only charge with an official charger and never mess up plugging it in.
hi all, i installed picofly on a switch lite using rp2040-zero with latest firmware. When I start, without microsd I have the NO SD screen correctly. If I insert the micro SD the picofly always flashes green - blue why?
[RESOLVED]
I fixed it by changing point 3V3. The one near the SD slot is NOT good
[RESOLVED]
I fixed it by changing point 3V3. The one near the SD slot is NOT good
Last edited by LuigiGad,
that middle resistor 0.0ohm and another 2 resistor 2.2k or 1kHey, I have a problem on my switch lite.
Picofly not working, i remove pico and flex.
Nintendo start OFW, but have a problem microsd. Try three microsd and nothing.
View attachment 370646
And second question. Flex mosfet has three resistor that's right?
I have a bridged resistor (multimeter 0.000 and beep).
I marked in the picture, Please help me
View attachment 370648
Thats the RST line, you might clean any residue around it, or shorten the wire, or replace the wire, or use a bigger wire.
Reference From QA Rehius:
Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point
Post automatically merged:
Ah i missed that you use 3.3v near usd. I dont read any confirmation about those point in here. That could be the cause.
Seems that 3.3v point you choose, connected to this smd in the back.
Dont know what is that. Might be voltage regulator?
I think you need to find other 3.3v source to be used by the pico.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I installed PicoFly on nine OLEDs this week. There was a new Toshiba NAND 'THGAMSG9T24BAIL' on three devices.
These Toshiba NAND devices all had the same results.
1. Check PicoFly start-up after installation normally.
2. Verify normal emu-nand creation and boot.
--------Error-------
3. Black screen with purple LED after reboot in many cases.
3-1. Black screen after purple LED even after reboot by pressing power button for 12 seconds.
3-2. PicoFly does not work without full battery discharge, connector reconnection.
3-3. After a successful reboot, hekate can enter, but atmosphere fails to enter afterwards.
3-4. The PicoFly version cannot be checked in the toolbox.
3-5. Sometimes a sudden slow emmc mode announcement.
I used awg 30~36 alternately because I thought this might be a line thickness issue, but it didn't get better.
This problem solved all problems after connecting an additional 47ohm register to C and A points.
Why is this only happening with the new Toshiba NAND?
These Toshiba NAND devices all had the same results.
1. Check PicoFly start-up after installation normally.
2. Verify normal emu-nand creation and boot.
--------Error-------
3. Black screen with purple LED after reboot in many cases.
3-1. Black screen after purple LED even after reboot by pressing power button for 12 seconds.
3-2. PicoFly does not work without full battery discharge, connector reconnection.
3-3. After a successful reboot, hekate can enter, but atmosphere fails to enter afterwards.
3-4. The PicoFly version cannot be checked in the toolbox.
3-5. Sometimes a sudden slow emmc mode announcement.
I used awg 30~36 alternately because I thought this might be a line thickness issue, but it didn't get better.
This problem solved all problems after connecting an additional 47ohm register to C and A points.
Why is this only happening with the new Toshiba NAND?
Attachments
Sometimes slow emmc is a bad 47 ohm res - happened to me last night. Started one by one and got lucky on first one, #29 on zero was bad. After I replaced it slow mode error gone and all hos load.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
What is C and A points?
Your 50 (49.9) ohm resistors threw me a little bit, but those should be alright, considering you were booting. Is it possible that your wire attached to the resistor on pin 26 is intermittently hitting the ground pad of your removed button, and foiling the picofly glitch?
Maybe for Toshiba the value suited is not 47ohm but 100ohm, need more confirmation for people who actually install on Toshiba nand.
Its one for all solution, so there could be some nand not suited with the resistance value.
Post automatically merged:
I used what people used (under the flex cable), its worked.
This also confirmed:
Similar threads
- No one is chatting at the moment.
-
-
-
-
-
@
GilgameshWh5:
i saw someone say theyll do a hormone therapy so i created an account for the sole reason to tell them not to -
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
@
GilgameshWh5:
reach out to and talk to people near you whether its your parents, family or closed friends dont keep it bottled up
-
-
-
-
@
Psionic Roshambo:
Money shot the new facial rejuvenation cream from Cock™ spray your face with love!!!+2 -
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
